Question about Summit Refrigerators
This has happened 3 times now and the drain is clear and not restricted. We have like 4 of this model refrigerator in the facility and 3 out of the have all about the same time has started to have this same problem. I believe it must be the insulation getting old and making drain water to freeze around the inlet of the drain hose. All 3 of these refrigerators have the wire from the evapator to transfer heat to the drain hose inlet. Time for a new refrigerators?????
Bad heater element on drain
Posted on Jun 15, 2018
Hi, One of the most common problems with frost-free refrigerators (and often with upright frost-free freezers) is drain freeze up. This is usually caused by the defrost drain clogging, then freezing. On older units, it can also happen when the insulation (usually open-cell Styrofoam) around the drain gets 'water-logged', as it often does over the years, causing ice to build up inside the drain.
The first symptom, at least in top-freezers, is usually water under the crisper drawers, on the floor of the refrigerator section.
In side-by-sides and upright freezers it'll appear as a nifty slab of ice on the freezer floor, eventually running water out onto the kitchen floor.
These are quick and easy to make. Just cut a piece of #12 copper wire (strip from regular 12-2WG 'Romex' household wire) about 6 inches long and bend it around a 1/4 inch round rod. A screwdriver shaft works well for this, but any 1/4 inch dia. piece of metal will do.
Now when your refrig or freezer drain clogs and you find the trough under the evaporator full of ice, here's what you do.
Clear the ice, open the drain (use hot water in your one gallon pressure sprayer and a wet-vac, and hang this little piece of copper on the defrost heater, so it extends down the drain. On most units, this is a black rod under the evaporator coil. Some use a radiant heater inside a glass tube, with which you can use this method, but you must carefully bend the hook on your copper wire to the diameter of the glass, being sure it puts no pressure on the glass.
This heater is responsible for melting all that frost that we don't have to deal with since the advent of Frost-free units, and it glows a dull red during the defrost cycle, so there's plenty of excess heat for our purpose.
Anyway, since copper's such a good conductor of heat, some of the defrost heater's energy will transfer down the copper wire, into the drain, and keep it open. What I like to call 'stupidly simple', this uses no extra electricity and works extremely well!
One precaution: hang this piece of copper *loosely* over the defrost heater. Don't squeeze or crimp it on, or you risk causing a "hot spot", damaging the heater.
Note: I get a lot of questions as to whether this wire will melt the rubber drain grommet or plastic drain tubing. I've installed literally hundreds of these wires (wish I'd kept count!) and have never seen any damage caused to those areas.
Keep in mind that when the unit switches into defrost, the inside of the freezer is at or below zero. Most defrost cycles last 20 minutes max, with the heater shutting down before the cycle ends, so the warmth that travels down this little copper wire isn't nearly intense enough to melt anything but ice.
Hope this makes sense! Good luck
Posted on Dec 05, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Did any of the repairmen replace the heater which is at fault or did all three of them change it? If it has not been changed then I would suggest that it should be. If it continues to be a problem then you can get drainline heaters added to the system but you would need to talk to a fridge guy before they wasted a journey. The other possibility is that the front cover is not inside the drain pan or a leak in the drain pan, and if you have an icemaker you could even get water coming from further up the cabinet. Either way I would suggest picking your favourite of the three and tell them that the problem is unresolved. Most fridge guys offer some sort of warranty on work that they do. Hope this is of some help.
Posted on Sep 11, 2007
Drain line froze.
Used hair dryer to thaw frozen line, works OK now. 01/07/09
Think the frozen drain line was caused by the light in the refrigerator not shutting off when the door closes, causing excess cooling in the freezer. Poor design on the light shutoff switch, corrected design to make permanent repair
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
first thing I would suggest is to flush the drain line. defrost any ice in the drain and then flush warm water thru the line until it flows freelyif your having a hard time getting the line flushed out you may try using a large syringe or turrkey baster filled with warm water to forcfully flush water thru the line. this will most likely fix the problem.
you didnt mention if food was freezing in the refrig as well as the drain but there may be an off chance that the temperature control could be bad. since this is a manual defrost unit it depends on above freezing temps to help keep frost off of the cooling coil. if the temp control goes bad it will allow sub-freezing temps and possible drain freeze ups. so if the drain continues to freeze you will need to replace the temperature control.
if it comes to that, the control actually has a part number on it since maytag cant find your model number.
message me back if you have any further questions. thx peyton
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
Your drain tube may
be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's
stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor.
It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little
pressure with a turkey baster will
usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help. Make
sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be
located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
Take a bare copper wire and wrap it around a fin near the heater and put the other end a few inches down the drain. The heat convection may prevent it from freezing.
Posted on Jul 02, 2009
the defroster isn't close enough to the drain to be effective. remove the back wall of the inside of the freezer, remove the excess ice. clear out the ice from the drain using hot water and a turkey baster. there is a kit from whirlpool that uses a piece of metal and a screw around the defrost rod, but I found out that a piece of 14 gauge solid core wire with the insulation stripped off works great too. stick the stripped wire into the drain, 2 to 3 inches, and wrap the rest around the defrost rod.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
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