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The lock mechanism attached to the screw on the outside of the wheel is seemingly not reaching the rod inside the shaft. Is there a ball bearing or between the rod and the screw?

The lock mechanism is the handle that, when rotated a quarter turn, locks and unlocks the telescope. the handle is threaded through the cover of the wheel and attached to the screw that is fed down the center of the shaft with three gold bolts. The main screw(through the center shaft), when turned, pushes and releases the rod to initiate and cancel the expanding system that locks the telescope.

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6ya6ya

6ya staff

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: outside sliding door handle?

Yes. It is a difficult job, but not impossible. The hardest part is actually removing the interior door handle. Here are the steps.

  1. remove the interior door handle by pressing the door panel in and prying out the C-ring retainer clip
  2. remove the lock slide switch bezel with 1 screw, then insert a blade on the bottom left of the slider between the slider and bezel, and release the clip, the slide the bezel toward the rear of the vehicle and pull out
  3. carefully unclip the door panel around the lower edge and sides and lift the door panel UP and off
  4. remove the interior lock slide switch with 2 screws
  5. pull back the plastic vapor shield part way to expose the mechanism
  6. there is a cable that runs from the mechanism to the exterior handle, unclip it from the door frame
  7. there is a rod that drops down from the door handle to the mechanism, release the rod from the plastic clip
  8. locate a large (likely black phillips) screw next to the door handle on the EDGE of the door, remove it
  9. locate a 10mm screw on the inside behind the door handle, remove it
  10. locate the final 10mm screw behind the handle through an access hole, remove it (careful not to let it fall inside the door)
  11. the door handle will push out through the door part way- there is another C-clip securing the lock cylinder that will need to be removed, and the lock cylinder can be pushed into the door cavity
  12. pull the door handle through the outside of the door skin- the door handle assembly is still attached inside the door by the latch cable- the cable can be easily removed from the handle assembly to remove it completely
  13. you will likely find that the end of the door handle itself is broken off- don’t buy a new handle! Email me and I will show you my free and possibly better solution that will likely last the life of the vehicle dbonnell1972 at yahoo dot com
re-assembly is the reverse of the removal

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

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warlock61

warlock61

  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: Driver side door lock seems mechanically "stuck"

there are several screws you have to remove remove the trim piece around the inside handle the panel lifts off dont pry it off or it will break the door latch usually binds and has to be replaced

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

cadman000

Eric Heifetz

  • 607 Answers

SOURCE: Removing manual window handle at door panel

Uses a "c" clip to secure window handle. Requires a special clip removal tool, that can be purchased at the parts store. Hope this helps

Posted on May 23, 2009

Anonymous

  • 490 Answers

SOURCE: Removing door panel on 1997 Hyundai Accent

Look under the round part of the handle,see if there is a small allen screw there,if it is unscrew it until the handle comes off.if not send a new message

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: removing inside door handle

i have a hyundai accent 2001 and i need to find fm stations manually.

Posted on Mar 06, 2010

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1 Answer

Why can't front passenger door be opened?


The outside handle sounds like it is no longer attached to the mechanism that allows the door to open. Take the door panel off and look inside to determine if the handle is still attached to the rods and if the rods are still attached to the lock mechanism.

Feb 01, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

1999 toyota prado


where are you hands, we car blind here,

ball bearings are everywhere. car has 1500 to 3000 parts.
even the steering shaft has bearings.
inside car, outside car.
engine, transmissions, wheel bearings. axle bearings, CV balls.
where.

May 27, 2014 | 1999 Toyota RAV4

1 Answer

Replace cv joints


Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Have anyone out there ever change inner tie rods on a1995 honda odyssey?,if so simply explain,THANKS


Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Sep 10, 2012 | 1995 Honda Odyssey

2 Answers

Steering wheel movement


Could be your tie rods coming out of the rack and pinion and attached to the wheels. Grasp the tie rod near where it attaches to the wheel and see if you can shake, twist or move it. If you feel any play or looseness at all in the tie rod joint, then it is worn badly. Both outer tie rods at each wheel should be replaced. If the outer tie rods are tight, you can't move them with your hands, then have a shop check your inner tie rods for wear. Have them check the ball joints for wear, also. Or you can raise the wheel off the ground. Be safety conscious. Grab the tire at top and bottom. Can the tire move in and out, feel play in the lower ball joints? Any side to side play in the wheel? Maybe you can spot the looseness at the tie rod or balljoint. Maybe you'd better let a shop look at it.
A CV joint wouldn't have those symptoms. A wheel bearing possibly, but usually accompanied by a grinding noise. Have it checked out.

Jun 20, 2012 | 1999 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

1999 s70 volvo driver door won't open from outside or inside


I am working on this RIGHT NOW. Remove panel (see Utube) remove white cover (Torx 25) from interior of exterior handle. You will see that lifting the handle pushes a rod down The rod is attached to the bottom half of the mechanism via a cheapo plastic connection, that can work loose. It is like a screw shaft (top) that squeezes (sideways) into a blue plastic channel which merely pinches the "screw shaft" to hold it. The connection has come loose. Squeeze upper shaft into (lower) blue channel. Added tiny bit of epoxy to bond "screw shaft" onto blue plastic gripper. Done. Saved $500.

Apr 04, 2012 | 1998 Volvo S70

1 Answer

My Front left tire is tilted inward and underneath the truck i found one of the support bars that run's across is broken off on the left side. I looked around the wheel and found that no metal was bent so...


General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

Jun 27, 2017 | 1999 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

1 Answer

My drivers side door will not open. Cannot remove panel. How do I remove the panel withou opening the door for 1998 Honda Accord


Had the same problem happen to me on a rear door. A mechanic lowered the window, and managed to "fish" the metal rod that goes from the outside handle down to the locking mechanism. Usually, this rod becomes dislodged at the top end, where it meets the outside and inside handle rods, disabling both. If it became dislodged at the bottom, where it meets the locking mechanism, then this procedure will not work. Much of the front door panel can be disassembled with the door closed. And maybe, just maybe, if you take out the window switches sub panel from the door panel, you will be able to look for and reach the rod actuator. This subpanel (black plastic) is held by just two screws at the bottom, hidden with a plastic top, that you have to pry out to reach the screw itself.

Dec 04, 2010 | 1998 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Bmw drivers side wheel rattle over bumps on the road


You may have a wheel bearing, Strut, bushing, ball joint, or tie rod worn out.

Only way to really tell is take it to a mechanic and have it checked..most will do this for free. Especially if you take it to one of the national chain repair shops that give free estimates.

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

Sep 11, 2009 | 2000 BMW 3 Series

2 Answers

1972 corvette stingray, driver side door does not open fron either inside or outside.


Sounds like the door latch mechanism is worn out.

The door latch mechanism for your door is operated by rods, from the inside door handle, and the outside door handle.
It is highly unlikely, (Though not impossible), that all those two rods have fallen off. (Spring clips hold the rods in place. Opening Rod Control Clip. In the link below they are shown as Item E)

With the window all the way down, carefully use a long flat tip screwdriver, to push down on the lever for the door latch mechanism, to open the door. Make sure the lever for the door lock, in the door latch mechanism, is in the fully unlock position.

This link may help show you the inner door hardware, I'm referring to above,

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-c3-door-hardware+1968+1982-inner-1-106-9491.html

You can see that when you pull out on the inner door handle, it pulls a rod forward. This rod is attached to a Bellcrank. The Bellcrank in turn pulls down on another rod, which pulls down on a small lever in the door latch mechanism, to release the door latch.

When you push down on the outside door handle, it pushes a small rod that is attached to that same lever as the inner door handle. Looking down through the window opening in the door, it is that lever that you're trying to push down, to open the door.

Viewing down through the window opening, try to operate the outside door latch a little. Watch to see what lever it tries to move. That's the lever you have to move Down, with the flat tip screwdriver.

With the door open, it is a matter to check out,

1.The Inside Door Opening Control, (The inside door handle is attached to it), to see if the locking part of it is functioning correctly. Make sure that it goes to the full Unlocked position.

2.The Door Latch Mechanism. Make sure it is functioning correctly. It, along with the various door hardware parts inside the door, needs to be lubricated at specific intervals. The more it's used, the higher the interval rate goes up. (I find that owners seem to Skip this task a lot! I use Lubriplate White Lithium spray)

To replace the door latch mechanism, I suggest you buy a manual for your car, so you can view all of the door hardware to remove, to remove the door panel. Then view how the spring clips come off of the rods, and the three screws come out of the door latch mechanism.

Jul 12, 2009 | 1972 Chevrolet Corvette

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