How to remove inner tub of Roper Washer, scraping sound coming from underneath every cycle of tub

Could be several things. Check all the hoses, water pump, water valve also check if water is coming from the bottom of tub could be tub seal. Check that there is not a leak in the outer tub somewhere I had one that had a nail stuck in one of the holes in the inner tub and rubbed a hole in the outer tub. Have fun I hope this helps.

You might have to do a DEEP clean of this washer. This video shows how to remove the inner tub:

Direct drive washer tub seal replacement.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It is your motor.

Wiper Motor: Service and Repair
Removal
REMOVAL
The front wiper motor comes as a unit with a wiper pivot on each end and mounts to a shaft that holds these two inner pivots.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2. Remove the wiper arms.
3. Disconnect the washer hose at the in-line connector located near the air cleaner housing.
4. Lift the cowl grille and disconnect the washer hose grommet from the hole in the wiper module. Pull the washer hose and the grommet
completely through the wiper module tub hole.
5. Remove the cowl grille.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch the cowl grille on the corner of the hood.
6. Remove the four brace nuts holding the wiper tub to the lower windshield fence.
7. Remove the four bolts underneath the wiper tub inner brace holding the tub to the bulkhead.
8. Remove all four inner support brace mounting nuts and pull the inner braces just free of the mounting studs.
NOTE: The wiper tub will drop down slightly.
9. Disconnect the driver and passenger side wiper link ends at the inner pivots.
10. Remove the two left wiper motor assembly mounting nuts.
11. Remove the two right wiper motor assembly mounting nuts.
12. Partially lift out the wiper motor assembly out of the wiper tub.
13. Disconnect the wiper motor electrical connector.
14. Remove the wiper motor assembly the rest of the way from the wiper tub and remove from vehicle.
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Wiper Motor: Service and Repair
Installation
INSTALLATION
1. Install front wiper motor assembly onto wiper tub.
2. Connect the electrical connector to the front wiper motor assembly.
3. Install the four mounting nuts. Tighten nuts to 9 Nm (80 in.lbs.).
4. Push the four inner support braces onto the studs and install the four nuts. Tighten the nuts to 9 Nm (80 in.lbs.).
5. Install the four bolts underneath the wiper tub inner braces that hold the wiper tub to the bulkhead. Tighten the bolts to 17 Nm (150 in.lbs.).
6. Install the four nuts holding the wiper tub to the lower windshield fence line. Tighten nuts to 7 Nm (65 in.lbs.).
7. Apply grease to drive link bushings.
NOTE: Make sure to use Mopar(R) approved grease.
8. Attach the driver and passenger side outer wiper linkage to the inner pivots on the front motor assembly and firmly snap into place.
CAUTION: Do not apply too much force to engage link bushing or damage can occur to the drive link bushing.
9. Position the cowl grille in place.
10. Install the washer hose and grommet into the wiper tub.
NOTE: Be sure to properly seat the washer hose grommet into the bottom of the wiper tub.
11. Connect the washer hose at the in-line connector located by the air cleaner housing.
12. Install the cowl grille.
CAUTION: Be careful not to scratch the cowl grille on the corner of the hood.
13. Connect the battery negative cable.
14. Verify that the wiper motor is in the Park position by cycling the wipers system. When done, remove keys from ignition.
15. Install the wiper arms.
16. Align the wiper arms and tighten nuts to 35 Nm (25 ft.lbs.).
17. Install the wiper arm nut caps.

Yes, but I would advise to try a washer cleaner before going through all the work to dissassemble your machine.
Use the longest, hottest cycle. You may have to run the cycle with a cleaner twice to remove all the built up soap scum inside the washer.

You could check out http://www.smellywasher.com/ for one possiblity. Others are " Washer Magic " or these:
If you still want to tackel the dissassembly: The washer front comes off by using a putty knife to push in the two retaining clips on the very top edge, where it meets the washer top. Now you will be able to access the screws which hold the top down. Of course to remove the inner tub, you still have to remove the lid switch, the agitator, agitator drive, the left hand threaded nut below that, the wire connection to the motor, the four tub retaining straps, the tub to pump hose, the four suspension rods, the tub cover and the water level hose. Then you would be able to remove the inner tub and pressure wash out the outside of the inner tub and the inside of the outer tub, if you bring the tub assemble outside. TRY THE CLEANER FIRST !!!!

It sounds like the basket drive block is worn. If it looks like the basket drive block has slid down the brake & drive tube (I believe you're calling it the spindle), it's definitely worn out. When this part is in place it sits on top of the brake & drive tube and won't allow the basket to go lower. To replace this, remove the cabinet to gain access to the the inner basket which you will have to remove. On the top of the brake & drive tube you will see 2 small tabs. Align these with the cutouts on the basket drive block. Mount the drum back on top, and tighten the spanner nut. Reassemble the cabinet and you should be good to go.
Let me know if you need more assistance.
Good luck!

two screws hold back control panel on. panel flips up. two clips hold case on. remove clips and lid switch plug and whole outer case will tilt forward off machine base. pump is down in front and can be bought separate.

the inner tub and outer tub has a seal under the agitator. this must be replaced. use a spanner or a large channel lock plier to remove the nut. seal is underneath it.

Most washer models have snap-clips holding the front of the top panel down, with hinge-like clips at the back. Carefully pry up the top panel on the front of the machine using a tool that won't scratch the finish, such as a plastic or wooden wedge. If it does not pop loose fairly easily, then carefully examine the back of the machine to see if this is a rare model that has screws holding down the top panel. (But really, it _should_ just pop loose.) Once the top panel is tilted up to expose the inside, you should be able to see everything you need to see inside the body to evaluate a spinning drum problem.