I'm experiencing the same problem capillary tube iced on the top but the cold coil not icing what is the causes low refrigerant .leakage on the system.or the condessor is dirty
Step 1: check the freon level via pressures or weighing in the correct amount.
SOURCE: drs2662aw amana side by side
Sounds like you may have a restriction or blockage, may also be low on freon
SOURCE: Capillary tube replacement
The True TSSU-60-16 uses an oversized (134A) refrigeration system with air flow directed at the pans.... if the capillary tube is plugged it will NOT cool at all.. most of the time a restriction (plug) is at the drier where the capillary tube goes into it.. as it is smallest passage in the system...hope it helps
SOURCE: Freezer gets cold, Refrigerator Hot
First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.
Now, why is that cold air not getting over to the Ref side?
1. The little door is not open.
check your control setting. You can't see the door but, you should be able to feel air coming through the channel on the Ref side.
2. The fan in the freezer is not working.
You can hear this fan running when you open the freezer.
3. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice which won't let the fan circulate the air over to the Ref side.
This is a failure of the defrost system which consist of the defrost timer, heater, and thermo disc.
Also, If you replaced the evaporator fan then you got a good look at the cooling coils. Look at these coils while it is running. There should be a light coat of frost on all the coils. If this frost line is only 3/4 or 1/2 or any amount less than full coverage of the coils then the system has a coolant leak.
Directly under these coils is the drain pan and drain hole in the middle. This area should be clear of any ice or debris.
SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control
It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze
SOURCE: My Delfield Freezer (f2fh) does
Possible solution to original question at top of page: Recently worked on a Delfield F2FH with the exact same problem. Would get to 12 degrees and then go up and down either to -10 degrees or up to 12 to 55 degrees. Although I cleaned the condenser coil of some dust it was not the problem. There was no icing of the evaporator either. The defrost timer was also working. There was icing of the lines coming off the compressor but this was simply a symptom of the real problem. After checking everything out carefully and talking more with the customer about how the unit was fluctuating in temperture I noticed something that I had not paid much attention to as a possible factor in the problem. It seems a previous technician had worked on the unit and was very sloppy in his work as he did not put many of the screws back in place after taking the unit apart. Two screws that he did not put back were the ones that secure the overhead outside front panel where the door switches are located. As a result the switches were only making a hap hazard connection with the striker pads on the top of the doors. Whenever the owner moved the unit or, wiped the panel or, even opened the door the top service panel would move slightly out of allignment causing one or both door switches not to contact the striker plates. This in turn shut down the evaporator fans inside the freezer compartment which then only allowed cold air to drift to the bottom of the inside of the unit. The temp control sensor, mounted inside at the top near the evaporator fans, was reading tempertures inside the freezer compartment warmer at the top as all the colder air was at the bottom. On this unit there was only about a half inch of tolerance on the door striker plates so if they were not alligned properly the fans did not come on. So, check your door switches and see if they are engaging. One or both of your doors may have dropped to low to fully engage your door switches due to worn bushing or hinges (each door will only turn half the fans on inside); your striker plates may be worn cracked or out of allignment; your top panel is loose and moving the strikers out of allignment. Don't forget to manually test the evaportor fans to see if they are all working. Do this by opening both doors and pressing both door switches. If the fans do not come on suspect a bad switch which controls the fans which failed. If all the fans come on the problem is in the contact of door to striker plate. If one or even two fans do not come on test the fan itself. The air must circulate insde to keep a proper temperture. I hope this was helpful.
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