How to fix agaitator that works only clockwise

SOURCE: Washer won't spin

A common fault on a front loader washing is brushes wearing out in the motor. A general maintance is to check these brushes out about ever two years. Isolate the washing machine from the power. Remove the motor and with a small screw driver lift the brushes of the commutator or just take it down to your local motor rewinder and get him to bench run the motor and test it while you wait. If its had its day look around for a good second hand one. It could be in the electronics but i have seen a motor take the electronics out?? I think its the motor???

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series

The agitator has four small teflon (I believe) plastic grips inside the upper portion called "agitator dogs". They have small teeth on them to grip the inside ring of the agitator. You can replace them for less than $10 for a pack of 4. Your local appliance repair shop should carry them, or be able to order them for you. Let me know if this helps.

SOURCE: servis 1100 washer

Maybe you are overloading this weak useless machine. (I have the same)- Try washing one sock at a time

SOURCE: Kenmore series 80, fills and agiatates, but stops before if drains and spins

This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments. Parts can be found at searspartdirect.com or repairclinic.com.

SOURCE: Agitator locks up

The agitator is supposed to turn freely one way then catch the other. in the top of the agitator there is three teeth that retract when you go counter clockwise and then when they go clockwise they come back out to bite on the inside of the agitator and then spin it. Those teeth are called DOGS. It is only when you can spin it freely both ways that you have a problem. There is nothing wrong with it. Congrats.