SOURCE: We have a fairly new
Make a solution of half water and half white vinegar. Fill up your iron and get it good and hot then let it sit a couple hours. flush out and repeat as necessary. Hope you find this helpful. Please give me a fixya rating If this works for you. It works very well as long as it is not completely filled with scale. Once you have it
good and clean By a gallon of bottled water at the market and use that for your Iron and you will never have a scale problem again. I learned how to do this 20 years ago from a 80 year old woman from england. If it is really bad you can up
the vinegar concentration but do not go higher than 2 cup to 1.
George
SOURCE: the black and decker iron wont heat up
It probably has a high temp overload opened up inside or the thermostat control has gone bad.You can only tell for sure by taking the unit apart and testing the circuit for continuity.The steam feature on the iron is heated by the same element that heats the iron so it wont work.the element itself could also be bad,but I have never seen one go bad.You will have to check each component seperately to find the damaged part.or you can test the whole circuit at the plugs end,and use a jumper across each part until you have continuity through the unit.Make sure the thermostat is turned all the way up.the part that you are bypassing when you get continuity is the bad part.
You can buy a cheap continuity checker at any lowes,or even wallmart for that matter.
SOURCE: D2030, Digital Iron - display lights up, but the
Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to troubleshoot our iron and figure out what is wrong with it.
Electric Iron not Heating Up or not Working Right
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5300202-electric_iron_not_heating_up_or_not
heatman101
SOURCE: D2030 Iron: Iron keeps shutting off...like auto-shut off is al...
OK... quick disclaimer. Me = not responsible if you break your iron, set something on fire or electrocute yourself. If you're not sure what you're doing, find a qualified person to help or trash the iron. Getting hurt isn't worh a $40 iron.
That said, mine had the same issue... in my case, was a break in the cord.
Before you do anything that follows, don't forget to drain the iron. You'll have a big mess if you don't. :)
Accessing the cord connections requires a security screwdriver. You can buy one at a hardware or electronics repair store. OR if you're chep like me, make one yourself by using a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a notch in a thinner blade, flat blade screwdriver. Any cheap flatblade screwdriver will do (eye protection recommended since you'll be grinding metal).
Unscrew the two screws in the back. Once removed, the colored plastic cover can be removed by inserting a screwdriver near the tabs that hold the cover in place and prying a bit.
Removing the inner cover is a little trickier.
The handle under the power indicator light (the red one) has an upper and lower section. Squeeze the lower portion of the handle directly beneath the light pretty firmly. You'll notice a slight separation between the back section and the handle. The back section is what you'll remove. I removed mine by squeezing the handle and pulling the power cord straight backward (I know that sounds odd, but it was the easiest way to get some leverage, plus it's already broken, remember???) Don't pull super hard, but firmly enough to separate the back panel from the back of the iron.
Once the back cover is removed, it's a pretty simple cord change. As there are a few more wires than some people are accustomed to, I recommend writing down the wire combos so you can reattach everything as it was.
If you have difficulty removing the crimped wire nuts (the plastic covers), you can use a pair of pliers to squeeze opposite the crimp and they'll open up enough to allow the wires to slide out.
From there, reassemble... opposite of the disassembly order.
Mine worked perfectly after this quick fix. Hope yours does too. Good luck and be safe!
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