Water floods out of dispenser drawer during rinsing. Could it be a blocked up anti syphon unit?
During rinse, water usually flows through the softener dispenser. The cup fills up and a small siphon tube triggers a siphon action
which pulls the softener and water into the washer. This siphon tube is probably blocked with crud. See if you can pull a small cap like part out of the softener dispenser area. Clean both the inside of the cap and the hole under it. This will allow the water to flow into washer instead of flooding.
Hi - thanks for your reply, but I have already cleaned the dispenser drawer and it is like new, so I know that's not the problem. I read somewhere (maybe on fixya) that German products had to have an anti syphon unit INSIDE the machine, and that's what I'm trying to find out about. Whether it's worth opening the machine up and having a look myself. (Don't really want to pay £117 plus part to Miele for a repair if it turns out to be something we could have cleaned up oursleves.)
Note that these anti syphon are located in two places. One is on the inlet side to prevent drawing water back into the fresh water supply and on the drain system to prevent pulling drain water back into the machine. Neither of these are likely to be related to the flooding you describe. When you cleaned the dispenser, did you remove the whole tray? ( instructions should be in use and care book ) Did you remove
syphon cap in softener dispenser and clean pipe. It can be hard to tell if this is open. There is a easy check. Run unit until it floods during rinse. Shut off machine and pull the dispenser out. If there is water standing in the dispenser and no water is coming out the bottom the syphon is plugged. If it is draining, then the flow into the cup is being deflected for some reason. this is based on the fact that it only floods during rinse.
Hi - it' definitely nothing to do with the dispenser drawer unit as it is absolutely spotless.Some water is not draining away down the back of the machine during the rinse cycle, so the excess spills out of the drawer as it can't drain away.
BTW the front compartment still floods when the dispenser drawer is removed. The water is not coming from the top but from right at the top rear of the compartment.
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SOURCE: Miele Washer problem Novotronic Premier
Main wash light flashing is a heating fault. You either have a faulty temp sensor (NTC) or the pressure chamber has blocked and the heater element has popped.
SOURCE: Miele Novotronic.
all miele are supplied with schematics. on washers take the top off and its on top of dispenser tray. if not there remove front panel it will be there
SOURCE: Washing machine problem
my w830 is doing exactly the same thing.
I am usually pretty good at fixing these sort of things so if/when I solve it I will post back here.
I think it is a motor fault - most likely the motor brushes are worn out.
SOURCE: Hi, i have a miele novotronic w 916 and it's not spinning
I mean this is not a filter error and i think the power main board inside on front bottom EL110 has an defekt and must change.
Or you can post the problem on my board www.avpc.de with photos for solving together and find another cheap used power board for it ...
SOURCE: replace door seal miele novotonic w 502
Hello mc2739,
It's been awhile for me since I have done this so I searched on the internet and found the following. The instructions are pretty detailed. You may want to contact Miele if any problems
1. Open the machine door.
2. Turn the main power off and unplug the machine from the wall.
3. Completely remove the powder dispenser drawer (it will come out so
far (and stop), then there is a small button at the rear of the
dispenser which you need to depress to remove it fully, you'll see this
button once you've withdrawn the drawer to its stop position.
5. Undo and remove the 3 x hexagonal head bolts surrounding the door
seal (they are at approximately the 2, 6 and 10 o'clock positions).
Note these bolts actually secure the front panel to the machine
chassis, they do not retain the door seal. Don't worry the front will
not drop off.
6. Now look at the aperture of the powder dispenser drawer (you have of
course removed the actual drawer earlier). Locate the lower left hand
corner of the aperture, and you'll see a recessed philips head screw in
a hole. Undo and remove that screw.
7. Now, you'll need to get on your hands and knees. You DO NOT need to
tilt, or lift up the washing machine to do the next bit. Locate the
underside of the front panel right at the bottom. You'll notice that it
sticks out about half an inch or so and is proud of what I would call
the kick plate which extends right down to the floor. You need to look
on the underside of the front panel, about an inch or so in from the
left hand edge. There you will see a spring loaded clip which when
closed is located within a slot on the underside of the front panel.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver, you need to carefully lever the spring
clip open whilst gently pulling the whole front panel (from the left
side) ajar. It will just suddenly pop out once you've done it.
8. Open the pump access door lower left hand side of the front panel)
and unclip the drain tube from its plastic retaining clip.
9. Now carefully swing open the whole front panel, it opens like a door
(hinged on the right hand side). It might be a little stiff as there
are a whost of leads attached to it, but it is designed to open fully
(with the leads attached) to about 90 degrees.
10. Next, unseat the rubber door seal from around the door opening area
(on the chassis, not the front panel, obvioulsy), so that the seal the
flops away from the chassis and lies just inside the machine.
11. You will notice that there is a thin steel band holding the door
seal in place around the drum. On the right hand side (at about the 3
o'clock position), you'ss see a tensioning screw for the band. With a
flat bladed screwdriver undo this completely and remove the screw (it
is accessible from above with a long screwdriver). Be aware that there
is 1 x washer and 1 x 'nut' type fitting that will fall out when you
remove the screw. Locate these and retain them for later.
12. Now extend the steel band to its maximum opening (by moving the 2 x lugs apart where the now removed screw was).
13. You can now remove the steel band. Then pull it out through the hole/door aperture in the chassis.
14. Locate the small rubber tag at about the 12 o'clock position where
the seal is attached to the drum and tug it. The seal will then come
away from the drum. Remove the old seal completely.
15. Using your new seal, place this correctly around the drum (there is
a lip on the seal and this has to go over the lip on the drum.
Remember, the seal goes on the OUTSIDE of the drum. Ensure the 'tag' is
at the 12 o'clock position.
16. Reassembly is then the reverse of removal.
17. Make sure that you do up the retaining steel band sufficiently and
that you correctly locate the sela on the chassis front panel (there is
a groove in the seal which will locate the seal in the aperture).
18. Finally, once you're done, put the machine through a few rinse
cycles (where the water level is high) and look for leaks. If you have
a leak, it is likely that your door seal has a rip/tear, or that it has
not been correctly located around the drum - in which case you'll need
to investigate.
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Usually answered in minutes!
I believe this is the ANTI Syphon Unit that on another forum someone suggests acts as a non return valve. It's at the rear of the machine by the outlet hose.
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