I prefer .030, The bigger the wire the more heat you need to melt it and get it to flow. 3/16 is thick enough I like to stitch it meaning I aim the wire to the bottom of the crack and then swing to the right then left then back to the bottom and start again and I pull my gun not push. Using the .035 wire I would build a lot of heat and burn through in a short distances. I would guess I would not go to .035 till I hit 3/8 of a inch.
In my opinion, either wire will work, if done correctly. I prefer to use .035 and I think that would be the right choice for most situations with 3/16" steel. The real question is what are you welding and what forces does it need to resist. Assuming you're using solid wire with C25 gas and short circuit transfer, you're looking at a starting point of around 320 inches per minute of wire feed speed and around 21 volts. For most weldments, you need to use a proper manipulation of some sort. I prefer using the "cursive e" method as it keeps your arc on the leading edge of the puddle yet backs up enough to fill in any undercut and adds the appropriate amount of weld reinforcement. This is pretty much a "go to" technique for most weldors. Push vs pull is an age old argument, but I find it really doesn't matter provided that you're using a proper technique, wire feed speed, voltage and prepped your joint properly. One thing about wire feed welding that is a common misconception...it is not easy to do properly. The only easy thing about MIG welding is doing a poor job of it. It is very easy to get lack of fusion, "cold lap" and junky looking welds if you have not dialed in your machine properly. Take some time and make some practice runs on similar material and make subtle changes one at a time until you get the settings you find work the best. It takes time, but once you have more experience it will be easier to dial your machine in. Also, make sure you have a good ground connection. Probably one of the biggest issues with MIG welding is an inadequate ground connection. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: clarke weld 85 en welds when gun trigger is not operated
hello make sure its not set on auto or the pin inside the set is not bent good luck
shaun
SOURCE: WILL THE LINCOLN SP125 MIG WELDER WELD ALUMINUM AND STAINLESS?
The mig welder should be capable of welding aluminum not stainless but the makers should be able to give you more detail. mig is used for steel and aluminum normaly but I do not know this transformer
SOURCE: millermatic 200 won't weld
first check on the plate that tells imfo of unit ,there is what is called duty cycle.If the duty cycle says per say 30%,that means you can weld full power for 3 minuets before unit will shut down to cool.if it says 100% duty cycle there is no limit on weld time.this is the first thing to understand,if that is not the case check the main contactor where the power imput wires go,pull the gun trigger see if the contactor is pulling in , it should if not no welding amperage.
SOURCE: handler 140 wire jerky when welding
check the factory settings and start over, also make sure the wire size is the same as the feeding wheels call for .035, .045
SOURCE: I have a hobart handler 140. wire feeds ,no weld
Check the relay box it small, square, you have to open the little black box but your electromagnetic relay switches probably popped. Thats what was wrong with my lincoln mig weld
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