Tractor will not work in any gear/speed. I have 12+ volts through all switches to motor leads when the motors are disconnected. when motors are connected there is no voltage present.

you have a bad motor, whichever side isn't turning you need to replace that motor

did you remove the high speed lockout? Its red and its on the shifter itself and c an be removed with a screwdriver, otherwise it sounds like one of the motors might be bad, you'll have to remove the dump box to test this, just disconnect one motor and try the gears, then reconnect it then disconnect the other motor then test the gears, this should tell you which motor is bad

take the inner door panel off, then jumper 12 volts to the motor connection, ( the one leading to the motor once disconnected ) to see if the motor even still works, if you hook the wires up backwards, no problem, Just reverse them to make it travel the other direction. if you find that the motor to the window works, back track to the switch, make sure its getting power with a meter or 12 volts test light, if it is,, push the switch to make sure its crossing through the switch supplying 12 volts to both sides, ( these switches are a normal pass through 12 volt switch, the only difference is the last 2 wires leading to the door side, flip flop, which makes the window go up or down) if you have voltage to and through the switch,, your window should work, ( assuming the motor checked out ok ) if wither of these 2 things doesn't check out good, replace them,, ( motor or switch) if you find that the switch isn't getting power, trace it back towards the drivers side switches,, and check the window switch lock, if thats shorted none of the other windows will work, and it would need to be replaced,

Disconnect the wire leads from the blower motor and check for 12 volts. If there is 12 volts, then the blower motor electric brushes are worn and the unit will need to be replace. If there is no Voltage, then your have a switch or relay issue that needs to be addressed.
Good luck and thank you for using Fixya

A volt meter or test light will be needed. Also a 12 volt battery supply ( you can use an automobile battery or your automobile)

*Please Note: before testing, make sure all wires and connections are tight and not corroded, loose, or burnt. Many electrical problems are just loose, broken, or burnt wire connections.

Test the chute rotator motor: you will need to disconnect the motor from the wiring harness.
1) connect a wire to the 12 volt supply and one of the motor leads
connect the other wire to the remaining lead
*note: positive or negative does not matter, because the chute motor will rotate either direction, and by reversing leads, the motor direction will reverse.

2) If the motor is good, now check for voltage from the snowblower engine.
Locate the supply wire to the rotator switch, with the engine running, check the voltage reading on that supply wire.

3) If the supply is good, then the switch is bad

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/rolandw_c013176d62ee17ae

I'm assuming you checked all the fuses -- they should be good, but in some cases, the right and left side windows may be on separate fuses.

The best procedure to find this problem is to start at the motor and work your way back to the power source (fuse box) testing each component to see if it is getting voltage.

If you fail to get 12 volts at either of these steps then the component leading to the one which failed to show 12 volts is bad.

First step is to test, with a multimeter, the motor leads for 12 volts when the window switch is engaged.

If you get 12 volts, there, then you should test the coil side of the window motor relay for 12 volts under same conditions.

If you get 12 volts there, test the window switch leads for 12 volts on both sides of the switch. You can also use the multimeter to test the window switch for continuity to see if it is passing current. If it fails the continuity test, replace the switch.

If you get 12 volts there, let me know and we'll take the next step.


I know this is complicated, but electrical troubleshooting is not simple.

More info, let me know.

Charlie

If it blows only on high speed, it is the resister.
If it does not work at all, check fuses first. See owner manual for location.
Then check blower motor by jumping 12 volts from battery to blower motor. Make sure ground is jumped too.

If it works now, it's the control panel. If not, it is the motor.

Blower Motor —Front Removal and Installation

1. Prepare the vehicle for blower motor (19805) removal.
   1. Disconnect the battery ground cable (14301). For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
   1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 .

1. Detach the speed control servo.
   1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
   1. Remove the bolt.
   1. Position the speed control servo aside.

1. Position the coolant expansion tank/windshield washer reservoir aside.
   1. Remove the screws and the nuts.
   1. Position the coolant expansion tank/windshield washer reservoir aside.

1. Remove the blower motor.
   1. Disconnect the vent hose.
   1. Disconnect the electrical connector.
   1. Remove the four screws.
   1. Remove the blower motor.

Also,

Heater Blower Motor Switch Resistor(s)
The front heater blower motor switch resistor has the following features:

• The assembly is located in the engine compartment on the evaporator housing (19850) next to the blower motor assembly (19805).
• Three resistor elements are mounted on the resistor board to provide four blower motor speeds.
• Depending on the heater blower motor switch position, series resistance is added or bypassed in the A/C blower motor circuit to decrease or increase A/C blower motor speed.
• An overheating device (thermal limiter) will open the resistor coil circuit when the temperature reaches 121°C (250°F), interrupting the blower motor operation in all speeds except high.
• The thermal limiter cannot be reset and is not serviceable.

Get a new blower motor and relay.

as you said relay is good,try to check 4 connection of relay,pullout relay,check if there a 12 volts supply,, a 12 volt control by ignition sw.,connection to blower motor, the last connection is to the switch mostly connected to ground.

check the wireing to the window motor an at the conector as well where it comes thru the door =- i have seen them break there an its covered === also check the circuit breaker in the fuse pannel position number 16 in the breaker for the window motors ok
dennis