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If the water tank stays full it indicates that the pump cannot function properly. Before first use, the Sirena pump needs to be 'primed'. This is indicated by the blinking blue 'water' LED. On a new machine (or a refurbished one as in my case), empty the water container first, then
remove the plastic water container
activate the small spring valve mechanism built into the bottom of the water tank. This plastic valve mechanism could initially be hard to depress, because the small metal spring is too strong, or the entire mechanism may be stuck altogether. Exercise this spring and the small valve a few times (ok: 10 times).
once the spring-loaded valve moves freely (it becomes easy to depress with your finger), the pump will have no problem activating the spring mechanism and starts sucking water out of the tank:
refill with filtered water almost to the top and observe the floating magnet (fill indicator) now in its UP position. You will have to refill the water after a few shots and using steam.
Press the ON/OFF button and open the steam knob clockwise all the way until you can hear the pump working and a steady stream of water escapes... onto the floor, or if you're smart, into a small container.
Once primed, the pump can operate and in turn, the machine starts heating up.
Now you can make your espresso, and even try the steam wand after it shoots out a short stream of water. Once you have steam coming out of the wand, you can start getting serious about making your brew...
I believe that a lot of problems, like failure to heat up, machine doesn't work, etc. are caused by this small spring mechanism being a little hard to operate initially. The Sirena is programmed to operate ONLY if it can extract water out of the tank.
Try it and enjoy the superb cappucino, espresso, etc. -the beautiful Sirena was born in Italy and is a little temperamental, but will be your best friend with a little help in the mechnical department (Think FIAT). By the way: I am a German engineer -no kidding.
A lot of people have trouble synchronizing their Wii Remotes to their Wii console. I have written a short tutorial on how to do this.<br /><br />Figure out which scenario is similar to yours and proceed with the solution-<br /><br />1) When you turn on the Wii console and press any button on the remote no lights light up at all. This is because the remote is dead, you must replace the batteries in the battery compartment on the underside of the remote. If the controller is using a charge pack you need to put the controller on its charger.<br /><br />2) When you turn on the Wii console and press a button on the controller all four lights blink a couple times then turn off. This means the controller is not synchronized. If your controller has ever been previously synchronized all you need to do is press the 1 and 2 buttons at the same time and it will sync up.<br /><br />3) If option 2 doesn't work then this means you are preforming a first time synchronization with the remote. While the Wii console is turned on you should open the little compartment that is just below the disc tray. Then you should press the little red button. After pressing the red button you should open your Wii Remotes battery compartment, remove the batteries and press a similar little red button inside of the compartment. Put the batteries back into the controller and the controller should be synchronized! <br /><br />If none of these solutions are working then the problem is a technical issue with either the Wii remote or the Wii system, you should contact technical support for more information.<br /><br />I hope this helped with the synchronization of Wii Remotes!<br />
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm. That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end. Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation. The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position. Your carburetor should be working properly to run now as long as you do not have other problems in the fuel system or electrical problems.
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Turn on the Wii console, when at the home screen press any button on the wii remote, if the lights on the wii remote remain dark then it needs new batteries.
If the lights all light up at the same time then stop this means you are not synced. Press the 1 and 2 buttons at the same time to sync, this will work if they have been synced before.
If your four lights still blink blue then you need to open the little compartment on the console that is right below the disc tray. Inside is a little red button, press the button. Now open your battery compartment on the wii remote and take out the battery, then press the red button inside. Put the battery back in and the controller should sync up. If you are still having trouble you will need to contact Nintenedo Technical Support.
You will first need to make sure your Wii remotes have batteries. Then, turn on your Wii and go to the Wii menu.
Open the little white door on the front of the Wii game console (this may require using your fingernail). You will notice a little rectangular red button.
Open the battery compartment of your Wii controller, which may require removing the rubber jacket. You will notice a little round red button there.
Press and hold the red button on the Wii game system and the red button on the Wii remote at the same time for at least 2 seconds. I usually hold down the remote button, then press the game console button for 2 seconds because it is easier for me. You will notice the 4 little blue lights on the front of the controller blink many times. The lights will eventually stop blinking and one of the four lights will remain on. The light that remains on tells which number Wii remote you have. The one on the left is number 1. The second from the left is number 2, etc.
*** If you bring your remotes to a friend's house to play, don't forget to sync your remotes back to your Wii console when you get home.
Take the keys out of the ignition and switch the headlights
off. Then, open the hood using the primary and auxiliary release
latches.
2
Use a socket wrench
to remove the two 10mm bolts holding the coolant overflow bottle in
place. Pull the bottle out of the engine compartment and set it on the
ground (passenger's side bulb replacement only.)
3
Undo the bolt at the top of the air filter box, lift the top
open and remove the filter from the engine compartment. Then, undo the
fasteners holding the air dam in place and remove it from the filter box
(driver's side bulb replacement only.)
4
Pull the entire air box out of the car to access the backside of the headlight assembly.
5
Turn the bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the
assembly. Then, release the retaining spring, undo the electrical
connector and carefully remove the old bulb from the socket.
6
Hold the new bulb by its plastic base and insert it into the
socket. Reattach the electrical connector and replace the retaining
spring.
7
Switch the headlights on to test the new bulb. If it works, reinstall the air box or coolant bottle and close the hood
2001 Cadillac DeVille V8-4.6L VIN 9 BACKUP LAMP REPLACEMENT REMOVAL PROCEDURE 1. Pull down the rear compartment lid trim. Refer to Compartment Lid Trim Replacement - Rear in Trunk/Liftgate. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector. 3. Remove the fasteners that secure the backup lamp assembly. 4. Remove the backup lamp assembly. 5. Remove the bulb assembly. 6. Remove the bulb. INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 1. Install the bulb into the bulb socket. 2. Install the bulb assembly into the backup lamp assembly. 3. Pull the wire harness through the body and seat the grommet. 4. Install the backup lamp assembly to the rear compartment lid. NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions. 5. Install the fasteners in order to secure the backup lamp assembly. Tighten Tighten the fasteners to 4.5 N.m (40 lb in). 6. Connect the electrical connector. 7. Install the rear compartment lid trim.
hello. below is the procedure for removal of the headlamp for bulb replacement. to access the headlamp you will need to remove the bumper fascia.
http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/001/725/1725371.gif
Callout
Component Name
1
Front Compartment Sight Shield Plastic Retainers (Qty: 6)
2
Front Compartment Sight Shields (Qty: 3)
Tip
Each front compartment sight shield is serviced separately as needed for repairs
http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/001/728/1728611.gif
Callout
Component Name
Preliminary Procedure
Remove the front wheelhouse liner. Refer to Front Wheelhouse Liner Replacement .
1
Front Fascia Extension Plastic Retainers (Qty: 5)
2
Front Fascia Extension
http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/001/733/1733942.gif
Callout
Component Name
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
Fastener Tightening Specifications: Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications .
Preliminary Procedures
Remove the front compartment sight shields.
Remove both front bumper fascia extensions.
1
Front Bumper Fascia Reinforcement Nut (Qty: 2)
Tighten
6 N·m (53 lb in)
2
Front Bumper Fascia
http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/001/736/1736893.gif
Callout
Component Name
Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in the Preface section.
Fastener Tightening Specifications: Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications .
Preliminary Procedure
Remove the front bumper fascia.
1
Headlamp Nut (Qty: 1)
Tighten
6 N·m (53 lb in)
2
Headlamp Bolts (Qty: 3)
Tighten
6 N·m (53 lb in)
3
Headlamp Assembly
You may have to fabricate a new anchor for one end of the spring on the side opposite the control panel. There is a wimpy plastic tab that breaks off here, right next to a black Phillips-head screw. Remove this screw and bend a piece of light wire around it, leaving a small hooked end sticking out for the spring to fasten on to. Replace the screw and install the spring. When you install the spring, it must go over the top of the tiny white plastic wheel, in the U-shaped groove.
This is how I repaired my PC430 several years ago and it's still working fine.
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