A disturbing sound on the ice distributor

Many ice maker sporadically turn to keep ice from freezing together and becoming a solid block of ice. This would occur even if the ice maker is turned off in order to keep the ice already made from freezing. It is generally short and not that loud. I'm surprised you find it disturbing.

Your supposed to make a mark all that before you pull the distributor. Did you mark the relationship between distributor body and engine? Then you note where the rotor is pointing, make a scratch mark. When you reinstall the distributor, line up all the marks.

If engine was turned with distributor out, You need to put the #1 piston on tdc of compression stroke. Stab the distributor, which ever spark plug tower the rotor is pointing at/turning into, becomes number 1. Then you follow the firing order around the cap in clockwise direction.

well if they are crossed it is bad. that could cause premature detonation in the intake or after fire in the exhaust. or no spark period. either way it will make a hell of a noise the manual should give you the firing order and on top of the distributor should be the numbers marking which cable goes to which plug on which cylinder. I wouldnt recommend running it till he can fix it cause it will cause more harm and more money in the long run if he does

You have a defrost problem. Locate your defrost timer while the unit is iced up and turn it until you hear a defined click. At this point open the freezer and listen for ice cracking. If Ice starts cracking then it's your defrost timer bad. If ice doesn't crack, then you have a defrost component bad ( heater and Bi-Metal) Ohm out your heating element and replace if there is no continuity. You can usually find defrost timer either under the front of the box, in the fridge around the light or thermostat or sometimes in the back at the bottom. The dial on the timer can only be turned one way with a large flat head. You will hear the difference in the way the clicks sound for the defined click. Good luck.

what's the brand name and model number?is the ice maker working good,i've heard the clicking sound coming from the ice maker before,the white arms that spin around get stuck and the motor keeps clicking trying to advance.check the inside freezer back wall to see if there's ice or like snow on the inside back wall,you could have a defrost problem and the fan when it's spinning could be hitting ice.or a bad timer if it has one.i'm just guessing here,you're there i need you to open the doors and try to listen to where the sound is coming from and send the brand name and model number so i can try to help you better.

something has to give when it too hard to turn. if ice cubes are ice to each other it could cause this . sometimes this is caused by water leaking from ice maker into the bucket . look for a bad water valve or a ice maker that is not lever or has bad tray . . ****

you have a bad door seal. replacement is better than repair. warm moist air is getting in and the condensation is freezing.

1. How do I get repairs done under warranty?

* If your refrigerator is under warranty, you must use an Authorized Service Company.
An Authorized Service Company can be found by using our Service Locator. Enter your zip code on the Service Locator to get a listing of available service companies in your area.
* You can also schedule service by calling our toll free number:
800-374-4432 M-F 9:00am - 5:30pm.

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2. How do I order parts?

* Parts can be ordered through an Authorized Frigidaire Parts Distributor.
An Authorized Parts Distributor can be found by using our Parts Distributor Locator. Enter your zip code on the Parts Distributor Locator to get a listing of distributors in your area.

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3. Noises / Sounds.

* Dripping sound.
During the defrost, water draining from the freezer section will drip into the pan by your compressor in the back and bottom of your refrigerator.
* Air rushing or blowing.
There is a fan in the freezer section and in some models in the back and bottom of your refrigerator to circulate air. This is a normal sound.
* Louder when starting or coming on.
Compressor operates at a higher pressure when first starting and noise should disappear as refrigerator continues to run and balance pressures.
* Popping, crackling, or sizzling about once a day.
If your model is self-defrosting, the defrost system utilizes a heater to remove the ice and frost from the freezer coil. During this period you will hear some expansion noises as heat is applied to the coil and you may experience some sizzling sounds as the melting water drips on the heater.
* Running water.
If you have an ice maker equipped model, the ice maker will call for water as the old batch of cubes is ejected and the ice maker starts to make more cubes. This will last for about 10 seconds and is normal.
* Vibrating or rattling noises.
The following can be sources of these noises:
1. Dish vibrating on shelf - move dish slightly.
2. Floor is uneven or cannot adequately support refrigerator. Use shims or extra support.
3. Items on top of refrigerator are rocking. Place a pad under the item or remove.
4. Refrigerator is not level. Adjust leveling legs or rollers as needed. Add shims in the back if floor is not level from front to back.
5. Refrigerator is touching wall or cabinets. See your owner's manual for space requirements.
* Snapping or clicking sound.
If your refrigerator is equipped with an ice maker the water valve will snap on when the ice maker is calling for water. This is normal. In some cases you may not have the water connected to your ice maker and the sound will be greater. In these cases, pull the wire signal arm (bail arm) on the ice maker in the up position to turn your ice maker off until the water supply line is installed.

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4. Taste and odors.

* Ice or food has a bad taste or odor.
Ice and uncovered foods can pick up odors or taste from strong smelling foods in the refrigerator or freezer. Cover foods tightly and discard old ice.
* Ice tastes like plastic.
Plastic water lines will give off a taste when first used. It takes one or two containers of ice for plastic to stop leeching. Discard initial container of ice after installation.

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5. Ice maker - not making any ice.

* Freezer may not be cold enough.
Temperature must be 5 F. or colder to work properly.
* Water supply valve may be blocked or restricted.
Supply valve must have a 1/4" opening for water to fully supply ice maker. Many self-piercing valves do not have this big of an opening. Replace water supply valve with one that has a 1/4" opening.
* Water supply valve may not be open.
Find and open the supply valve.
* Wire signal arm on ice maker is in the up position.
This position shuts off the ice maker. Pull wire arm (bail arm) down to start ice making.

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if yours is the type you can change from crushed ice to cube, make sure it is not stuck between the 2, If you put you hand in the ice holder conpartment you can should be able to feel a medal rod that turns when you change the form of ice.
Try turning this by hand to see it will come unstuck. Hope this helps

This was easy to solve after reading some posts which mention "a plastic flap" which is opened or partially closed by the metal rod running under the ice cube tray.

There is indeed a flap which is inside the front of the removable ice holder/dispenser. The flap should be able to open fully so ice can fall out. In mine it could only move 1/2 inch because the flap was laying on the wrong side of a small peg which guides it.

I was unable to free the flap to open completely by pressing on it, so I had to unscrewed six screws to take off the front plastic facing and the on the front plastic housing. Pushing on the metal rod immediately put the flap back into it's correct position. I then replaced the plastic front.

I can now have either whole cubes or crushed. Boy was that easy to fix!

A repairman recommended replacing the electronics ! !

I assume this misalignment might be caused by too much pressure when the ice cubes freeze solid or something? If it happens again, I know it's easy to fix.