UNFAMILIAR SOUND OF A REFRIGERATOR IN THE ICEMAKING COMPARTMENT

The icemaker thermostat is going bad.
Replace the icemaker.

Sounds like the compressor seized. The buzzing you hear is the compressor trying to kick on.

I noticed that happens a lot with air conditioners if power is interrupted when the compressor is running.

Did you try unplugging it for 20-30 minutes?

Sometimes letting it sit unpowered relieves the pressure that was built up in the compressor, making it easier for it to start.

If the thermostat behind the left side of the fill tray goes bad, the cycle will stop completely. Cost of thermostat is $20.00. Cost of new icemaker with new motor and everything including thermostat is $45.00, brand new, on EBay plus shipping. Cost for new icemaker from repair shop, $153.00 plus tax. Control board circuit panels each side of freezer compartment will go bad also stopping the ice maker cycle. these control boards come in pairs, one for each side of freezer compartment. Cost for new circuit panel control board from repair shop, $215.00. Cost from EBay brand new circuit control board $45.00 plus $8.00 shipping. Easy to install both, icemaker and control board circuit panels. Phillips screw driver and small socket set is all you need for removing and installing these items.

ur solenoid could be allowing water to flow freely its in the back its blue try replacing this solenoid and see if this fixes the problem they r cheap and easy to change

I have the same problem and I know the solution.
For LG to get their "in the door icemaker" to work, they have to blow cold air into the door's icemaker compartment. This air travels through two vents located just inside the refrigerator on the left side. The problem LG has is that the seals between the door and the refrigerator for these vents leak. This means that cold air is vented into the refrigerator compartment. Any sensitive food placed on the bottom two shelf on the left side will freeze. I can place two bowls of water in my refrigerator and make ice in 6 hours, even though the refrigerator is set to 38 degrees. The good thing is that LG knows there is a design problem and they know they can not fix it. After calling LG repairmen out for my freezing problem and not getting the seals fixed, LG gave up. Of course LG will try replacing the seals, and then replacing the door; but the real problem is a bad seal design. Just keep putting bowls in your refrigerator and as long as they continue to freeze up, keep calling LG back and demand that they fix the problem. LG can not fix the problem because it is a bad design, so now I am getting a new refrigerator Model LFX 29927, which is better and has dual icemakers. If you an LG refrigerator with their in the door icemaker, place two bowls of water inside the refrigerator, and if your seals are bad and they freeze; complain to LG until they give you a new refrigerator.

The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze and can't go where it's supposed to. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

take wires off inlet valve if it stops replace ice maker

Hello.
It sounds like the sensor on the arm is bad and will not stop the production of ice. You will need to replace the icemaker with part number IM6 and this will fix your problem.

I have the GE profile Refrigerator with ice maker in the refrigerator compartment. Mine was knocking loudly for long periods of time, so I finally removed the icemaker by removing the side panel in the icemaker compartment held with 1 phillips head screw, disconnecting the electrical plug (unclip), pulling the tab of the icemaker down (on top) and sliding it toward the door, thus removing it. There was ice frozen in the motor compartment that was the problem. I let it thaw out and re-installed. All was OK after that..

You may not have got the supply tube all the way into position so I would check this first. If the water is running down the back wall of the freezer compartment at a higher level than the icemaker the problem is not with the icemaker but with some break in the supply chain. If the water is overflowing from the icemaker then it could be the timer cycle on the icemaker or the water inlet solenoid valve at the back of the cabinet (compressor side). Water leaks need to be traced back to the highest point ( I know how obvious that sounds but sometimes we all miss the obvious). Hope this is of some help.