Water is leaking from behind that nut
That should have an inset, hex-headed screw/bolt. You will have to hold the rotor with one hand and use your other hand to loosen that screw. they use thread lock on that screw, so it will be difficult. but, that's only half the battle. You will have to remove the tub cover, agitator (7/16 agitator nut size), and the spin basket to access the tub seal. the seal has to go on from the inside of the tub assembly. Make sure you don't use anything against the outer lip of where the seal seats inside the tub, or you will have to replace the outer tub because it will still leak. Push the seal all the way down. then before you put everything back together, pour a small amount of water in the tub and see if you see any leaks. anything major will show then, but if there is a small leak, you will not know it till you try to wash with it. You shouldn't have to remove the stator screw or do anything from the bottom side of this unit. You should be able to replace that seal from the top side. good luck.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Front load washer leaking
You need to replace the rubber gasket around the door.
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore washer 80 series Model
Are you sure its the tub seal? There are several things that can cause the washer to leak out from under the bottom as you described. The water pump can develop leaks and cause similar symptoms. Please check again to verify. If the leak is coming from the front area and leaking out from under the washer, it's usually the water pump, or drain hoses. If the leak is coming from under the tub and leaking out around the front and sides of the washer, its usually a tub seal. For better access, you can remove the washer case to check by following these steps:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
Look to the lower right-hand side of the wash tub and make sure the small plastic air hose is still attached to the air dome. If the hose has come loose, snip a small portion off the end and re-insert it on the air dome. These hoses can stretch over time and become loose.
If the hose is still intact, locate the water pump directly in the front of the washer. You will recognize it by the two drain hoses attached to it. These pumps can develop cracks over time and begin to leak. If this is the case, the pumps are not serviceable and must be replaced. Also check the drain hoses for rips or cracks and make sure the hose clamps are snug.
Last of all, check under the center portion of the washer tub. If the tub seal is bad, you will see water tracks dripping on the top of the gearcase.
To re-install the washer case, follow thse steps:
1. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.
NOTE: If you still want to remove the agitator, simply remove the dispenser cap off the center post and remove the plastic cap underneath. There should be a 9/16 bolt underneath that you can loosen with a socket and ratchet. With the bolt removed, the agitator simply lifts off by grasping the bottom flanges and lifting up.
SOURCE: removing front panel from kenmore elite HE-3 front load washer?
If you've removed the screws and the panel sticks, tapping on each side will knock it loose. The panel should drop down, then off. You can also try propping the two front feet of the washer up slightly for better access. A 2x4 works real well. This will allow more room for the panel to drop and gives better access to the screws. The washer is very heavy, so you may need some assistance to lift the front. Either lift from the bottom, or place your hands on the front facing of the cabinet to push the washer back. DO NOT push on the door or control panel.
If you still need assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: kenmore heavy duty 70 series model 110-8237012
probably your drain pump leaking it has a seal right where it attaches to motor,,,,mine is leaking there but haven't replaced it yet! lol
SOURCE: kenmore elite oasis washer has error code f1
The F1 error code on this washer indicates a Primary Control Board failure.
It is likely that the machine control board will need to be replaced to correct this problem.
The part number for the machine control board is undetermineable because you have not provided me with the exact model # of your washer.
The procedure for replacing the machine control board is provided HERE
LINK: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wfgstgtftbtkrrdxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/gfsfgfsgqxgfqtqtgwf/1/1303472/5961857/image55806img-or.gif
NOTE: Be sure to unplug the washer to disconnect electrical power before accessing internal components.
There is a slight possibility that a problem with the pressure switch hose could be causing this problem.
A pinched or twisted air hose can cause this fault code.
When you open the console, check the air hose connected to the pressure switch on the machine control board.
If it is pinched or crimped, I recommend rerouting the hose to resolve this problem.
This may fix your problem without replacing the control board.
NOTE: You may want to check for this condition before ordering the control board. Most electronic control boards cannot be returned for a refund or credit.
If you find no apparent problems with the air hose on the pressure switch, then replacing the machine control board on this washer should correct your problem. There is a risk involved in replacing this part yourself.
As noted above, you could have a problem with the air pressure hose that is not apparent upon your initial inspection. A service technician would normally need to properly and thoroughly diagnose this problem before replacing the control board.
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