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inside behind dispenser behind door shelf will see screws remove them and that access the water tubes and connectors usually a line pops out of the tee connector
If you are having water leaking it is the solenoid valve and that valve is not in the door. It is in the back of the refrigerator near the bottom, it maybe behind a cover. The only thing that goes to the door dispenser is the hose
Heat from the night light probably has cracked the delivery tube for the water dispenser. There are repair kits available. from Whirpool. Instructions are included
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
You must be in the UK. I can not pull up any information on your unit, but I will try and walk you through this.
Hopefully the water leak is directly behind the dispenser. If you have water leaking out the bottom of the door, then you are going to have to replace the whole door. It water is leaking out of the bottom of the door then the insulation in the door is saturated. Over time the water in the door will freeze and crack you door liner open. There is no way to dry the insulation out. So, lets say this is not the case.
You either have a contact pad or a paddle arm in your dispenser housing. You may have a plastic curved piece at the top of the dispenser housing. It is held in by plastic clips. Squeeze this on both sides to release.
Up plug the refrigerator. Their are electrical components behind this housing. On the bottom of the housing frame are 2 small slots. With a flat head screw driver, pop the bottom of the housing out. On the sides and top of the frame are plastic clips. Push in on the sides of the frame to release. If you have a control board on the top back of the frame - remove the connectors. They are idiot proof. Each connector is designed to only fit a special plug. Set the frame assembly aside. You may have to remove a control board fixed to the housing, A contact switch housing and the housing itself. There are screws that go around the housing frame for removal.
On the bottom of the door there is a spring and a tubing connector. Push in on the end of the connector to release the tubing. You may have to remove a black locking ring on the connector first.
The tubing assembly you are replacing is available as a part.
Here is the hard part. Using a good adhesive tape, tape the top end of the new tubing to the bottom of the old tubing. Feed the tubing up from the bottom.
If you do not have slots on the bottom of the frame, you must push inward on the frame to release the frame from it plastic retaining clips.
My Miele 828 dishwasher started to leak at the front left corner. The leak became worse. I tipped the machine on its side and removed the rubber moulding connecting the base of the drum to the pump. I cleaned it out and refitted it finding two small coins inside. The leak persisted. I took off the top of the machine by unscrewing the two screws on either side and pushing the lid backwards. I switched the machine on and, with a torch could see that the detergent dispenser had detached from the delivery pipe under it. Using advice elsewhere on Fixya I undid the three bolts around the door and the three screws around the detergent dispenser; one is deeply recessed and easily missed. Than I unclipped the drain pipe behind the little door at the bottom left hand corner at the front. The front then hinges out from the left with hinges at the right side making the leaking connection easily accessible. Make sure you get the rubber flange well up the plastic tube as there is no flange on the tube to secure it. A possible design fault but the unit has functioned for ten years before the connection failed.
Ice makers
and water dispensers are convenient to have on your refrigerator, but
can also cause a lot of aggravation if they are not functioning
properly.
If your water valves are not defective and you are still
experiencing water or ice delays, you may have a clog in your
refrigerator hose line. Instructions and material needed to fix it up.
Towel,Flathead screwdriver,New water hose
Turn
off the water supply to the refrigerator and place a towel under the
line to soak up any residual water that leaks from the hose when you
remove it. Unplug the refrigerator.
Disconnect
the hose from the back of the refrigerator by pushing in on the collar
while pulling the water tube out. If you have a model with an ice and
water dispenser, you will need to disassemble the dispenser on the
front of the freezer in order to completely remove the water hose.
Remove
the water drip tray from beneath the ice/water dispenser and locate the
screws at the bottom of the cover (if any). Remove screws and pop off
the panel that houses the dispenser. If the unit does not have screws,
you will need to pry the cover off with a flat-nosed screwdriver.
Once
the cover is removed, you should be able to see the screws that hold
the dispenser unit in place. Remove these screws and reposition the
unit so you can free the water hose, by pulling it through the
dispenser.
Thread
the new water line through the freezer door and reassemble dispenser
unit. Push the new water hose into the fitting on the back panel,
making sure it is properly seated. Turn on water supply and check for
any leaks before moving the refrigerator unit back against the wall.
If the dispenser motor is not able to be driven to it's proper position.
Check mechanical linkage from dispenser motor to the top of the dispenser.
Check Wire Harness connections to the dispenser motor and Central Control Unit (CCU)
Check Dispenser Motor
"F20" is a No Water Detect error. It is an indication that you either have no water coming into the washer, or very little water at all. If the pressure switch has not tripped after 6 minutes, the error code is displayed. This can be a potential problem with the following:
If you have NO water in the wash tub, check the following:
- Inlet water valve may be clogged. Clean inlet screens if necessary. - Make sure water taps are on. - Check inlet hoses for kinks or clogs.
If you HAVE water filling the wash tub, check the following:
- Make sure you don't have a siphoning problem. Click the following link for instructions:
- Verify Drain Pump operation. - Verify the Pressure Switch hoses are intact and connected properly. - Verify wire harness connections at the pressure switch, inlet valves, drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU).
To access the Drain Pump - UNPLUG the washer and take the lower panel under the door off by removing the three screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Propping the front feet of the washer up can make access much easier. I use a couple small blocks of wood. With the screws removed, the panel should drop down then come off. If it sticks, tap either side and it should come free. The pump is located directly under the wash tub in the front of the washer. Verify the electrical connections are good and that the pump is running. Click on the following link to check the pump for obstructions:
To access the Pressure Switch - remove the three screws in the top panel along the back of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel should slide back, then, lift off. The pressure switch is located on the right-hand side of the washer in the rear. It is a round plastic device with electrical connections and a plastic air hose attached. Verify the electrical connections are intact, and the air hose is attached and not cracked or leaking.
To access the Central Control Unit (CCU) - with the top panel of the washer removed, the CCU is located directly behind, and just above the rear of the wash tub. There should be a tech sheet directly behind the lower panel or attached to one of the interior cabinet walls. Please refer to this sheet to learn how to perform diagnostics and to verify the wire connections at the CCU. In addition, the tech sheet will also assist in how to locate the components mentioned, and the specific measurements required determining if the components are good or bad.
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leaks are usually from valve /dispenser area on top left or from door boot. to check valves open top cover by removing 2 or 3 torx/ 1/4' screws at rear and slide back. check underside of dispenser for cracks, check rubber hose connecting valves to dispenser. to open front and check around boot, remove top cover, remove screws beside dispenser opening (remove drawer) snap control console off starting at dispenser side. On older non teardrop front disconnect and remove interface cables from ccu at rear (ribbon cable in clips on right side. On new teardrop models remove teardrop by unsnapping at top then work down carefully, then unclip console starting at left, disco cables at right side of interface. remove lower kick panel with 3 screws on bottom. then remove 2 front panel screws. remove 2 door lock asm screws and spring clip around boot, then 2 front panel top screws. panel comes right off, carefull of boot. door lock stays behind.
You can remove the frame around the dispenser by pulling it gently and then you access to the screws that hold the dispenser in place. Could be a spillage behind the frame. Good Luck.
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