WHEN THE ATTACHMENT BOLT BACKS OUT THE DRUM BECOMES DISCONNECTED FROM THE MOTOR AND DOES NOT ROTATE EVENTHOUGH THE MOTOR IS RUNNING!

IF you are lucky, the spline of the motor rotor has stripped out. It is an easy repair (about a 2 on a 1-10 difficulty scale), and the part carries a 5 year warranty (minimum, up to 10 years on newer models) Remove back cover, unscrew bolt at center of motor, pull rotor off. If spline is stripped from rotor, replace rotor and you're done. IF SPLINE IS NOT STRIPPED ....... Oh s***! The drive shaft has broken loose from the three arms which attach it to the drum. (the part is called the "spider") To repair, remove bolt on end of shaft at center of motor. You may have to cut it with an angle grinder, but don't worry about that, because the shaft has to be replaced anyway. Remove motor rotor and stator. Remove washer front, drain hose, fill hose, shock absorbers, support springs, all wires attached to outer drum, and eventually the entire outer drum. Remove bolts between front and back halves of outer tub to allow removal of inner drum. Remove 6 bolts holding 3 arms of spider to back of inner drum. Re-assemble with new spider and new bolt for end of shaft. If you can do it in under two hours, give yourself a big pat on the back. This is about a 9.5 on a 1 - 10 difficulty scale for repairs on this washer.

Oh s***! If the motor turns but the drum does not, the drive shaft has broken loose from the three arms which attach it to the drum. (the part is called the "spider") To repair, remove bolt on end of shaft at center of motor. You may have to cut it with an angle grinder, but don't worry about that, because the shaft has to be replaced anyway. Remove motor rotor and stator. Remove washer front, drain hose, fill hose, shock absorbers, support springs, all wires attached to outer drum, and eventually the entire outer drum. Remove bolts between front and back halves of outer tub to allow removal of inner drum. Remove 6 bolts holding 3 arms of spider to back of inner drum. Re-assemble with new spider and new bolt for end of shaft. If you can do it in under two hours, give yourself a big pat on the back. This is about a 8.5 on a 1 - 10 difficulty scale for washer repair. Good luck Mike.

Can you hear the drum motor running when you switch the machine on? You should hear it running and stopping periodically.
If the motor is running but not turning the drum then the drive belt is either broken or has become detached. It can be replaced by gaining access to the back of the machine.
If the motor is not running then it could be one of several problems - programmer mechanism not working, motor burnt out, motor brushes need replacing etc.

Hi,
This is what is probably going on. There are two parts in the motor that cause the drum to rotate.
One of them is "start" winding. It literally starts the drum's rotation. Once the drum motor has started the drum to move. The second portion of the motor, known as the "run" winding takes over and keeps the drum turning. When the Drum winding burns out. The same symptom is caused when the switch attached to the motor is also damaged. In your case, although this is rare. I think it may be the switch.
The reason being is that the motor has a combination switch that also connects one side to the heating element. In a nutshell, If you get the dryer not continuing to turn AND the heating element stays on. There is a problem with the switch.
If you get the heating element going on when you push the start button but turns off when you release the button. The problem is the motor having a burned out run winding. Either way, it is less labor intensive to replace the motor when you take it out. Doing it switch is not easy. Hope this helps. If not write back to me and we can continue.
HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR
Best, Mark

This is what is probably going on. There are two parts in the motor that cause the drum to rotate.
One of them is "start" winding. It literally starts the drum's rotation. Once the drum motor has started the drum to move. The second portion of the motor, known as the "run" winding takes over and keeps the drum turning. When the Drum winding burns out. The same symptom is caused when the switch attached to the motor is also damaged. In your case, although this is rare. I think it may be the switch.
The reason being is that the motor has a combination switch that also connects one side to the heating element. In a nutshell, If you get the dryer not continuing to turn AND the heating element stays on. There is a problem with the switch.
If you get the heating element going on when you push the start button but turns off when you release the button. The problem is the motor having a burned out run winding. Either way, it is less labor intensive to replace the motor when you take it out. Doing it switch is not easy. Hope this helps. If not write back to me and we can continue.
Best, Mark

The drive belt is broken or the motor's rotor is stuck. Open the door and rotate the drum manually. The drive belt is worn or broken if you can freely rotate the drum. The rotor is most probably stuck if you cannot turn the drum.

Visual check can be done by removing the back panel. Remove the screws holding it to the cabinet and pull it off. Replace the belt if it is worn or broken. Simply wrap it around the drive motor pulley and on one side of the drum pulley. Rotate the drum pulley in such a way that the belt completely wraps around it.

Try to free the rotor if it's stuck by lubricating it and forcibly turning it back and forth until it turns freely. To remove the motor, disconnect the motor wiring harness and ground wire from the terminals and remove the mounting bolt. Pull the motor out of the mounting slots. To reinstall or replace, simply slide it back into the mounting slots and secure it with the mounting bolt.

In some cases, the drum will not spin due to a broken drum pulley. Post it back if that is the case.

Make sure the motor is running.

after u remove the bolts that hold it to the window regulator tip the window towards the front of the door and the top rear corner of the window should pop out and then u just lift hte window out,hope this helps

How are ya? This is kind of technical information that i'm about to give you, so if you're not that technical then you should call a service technician to diagnose. Good luck and thanks for the inquiry :)

F25

DRIVE MOTOR TACHOMETER ERROR

If the control is unable to properly detect motor speed, the machine shuts down.
If a failure occurs during high-speed spin, the door unlocks after 3 Minutes.

Possible Causes/Procedure

1. Verify the shipping system including shipping bolts, spacers and the power cord are removed.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check drive motor tachometer resistance. It should be approx. 115 ohms.
4. Check wire harness connections between the drive motor and the Motor Control Unit (MCU), and between the MCU and the Central Control Unit (CCU).
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. Check the MCU by looking for operations of the drive motor.
7. Check the drive motor for powered rotations.

This is specifically for a Maytag Legacy SAV515DAWW, but may apply to the whole Legacy line.
There is only one drive belt on this washer and it is not accessible directly from the bottom as a pan forms the bottom of the case. All work can be performed through the bottom front panel, once it is removed.

Before one starts, an overview is helpful. The motor for the washer is bounted just behind the access panel. Attached to the shaft at the motor bottom is the drive pully for the drum belt, along with the belt tensioning pully and spring. Below that is the pump assembly attached by three screws in the shafts, which are accessible only from the bottom. What you must do, is remove the pump by unfastening four hex-head bolts, then rotate the motor and pump assembly bottom upwards to the front, so the bottom of the shafts containing the torx head screws fastening the pump are accessible.
While everything is all together it is helpful to notice that the far support for the pump is in almost a direct line with the motor shaft and the tum pully shaft. When you reassemble the components, this vertical pump support must go between the belt. As you face the washer, the tensioning pully will ride on the outside of the right side of the belt.

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Pull it out from the wall, so it may be tilted back at about a 45 degree angle and will not fall foreward.
3 Remove the two hex head screws on the right and left bottom front of the washer. The panel should lift out from the bottom, Two pins hold the top of the panel in.
4. Examine the mechanism as described above.
5. Detach (Unhook) the tensioning pulley spring from the front of the bracket above the pump..
It is not necessary to remove any of the hoses. There is adequate flexibility and slack for replacing the belt.
6. Remove the four hex bolts attaching the galvanized motor bracket to the frame.
7. Rotate the motor back, so the pump bottom faces the front.
8. Remove the three torx head screws in the pump support arms.
9. Detach the pump from the motor. Gently pry it off or gently strike the body of the pump away from the motor with a soft faced mallet.
10. Place the new belt on the motor pully and reinstall the pump, so the leg closes to the tub pulley is inside the two sides of the belt. Reinstall the pump screws in the plastic shafts.
11. Reinstall the motor and fasten the bolts.
12. Make sure the tensioning pulley is to your right of the belt and then side your hands to the rear and slip the belt under the drum pulley and completely around it.
13 Feed the belt onto the drum pulley. I did this by reaching back with my left hand and feeding the belt, coming from the motor pulley, into the drum pulley, then slowly rotating the right side of the drum to me with my right hand.
14 Check to ensure the tensioning pulley is to the right of the belts, then reattach the spring, so the pulley forces the righthand belt to the left.
15. Set the washer upright, open the lid and rotate the drum around twice using your hands. This will help seat the belt on the pulleys and ensure the drum is not stuck.
16. Make sure the cycle switch is pulled out (set to off) and plug the power in.
17. Set on a wash cycle and looking in the bottom , check for proper operation. If the motor appears to be stalling, immediately turn the unit off. Rotate to tub some more by hand and test for operation. If it still doesn't work, see help, your problem is more than just a belt!
18. If everything seems to work, toss in a test load of laundry and pat yourself on the back for being able to save some money!