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Doug Posted on Jun 09, 2015
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Too large of a metering piston in the indoor coil during cooling mode operation will cause the indoor coil to flood with refrigerant. True or False

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jack morton

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  • Posted on Jun 10, 2015
jack morton
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That's correct. If the piston opening is too large it will allow more frozen through than designed and flood the evaporator coil.

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What does error code LF mean in a PTAC unit model #PTH093B35AM?? Several of our units are doing this, they run but won't put out any heat? Please help!!

If there are no active failures or lockouts, the display will show a double dash, "- -". If there is a code listed, see the unit "Diagnostic Codes" chart for a list of definitions. Error Codes Problem FP Freeze Protection Engaged. The room temperature measured by the wireless remote thermostat or indoor ambient thermistor active sensor falls below 40°F. No Action required. This setting will disengage when the room temperature rises above 43°F. Fd Front Desk switch is closed. All outputs are switched off. Open front desk switch to allow occupant unit operation. Eo Un-Configured Service Board - All operation held awaiting configuration. Enter Configuration Menu and set "C3" to "C" for coolers with electric heat or "H" for heat pumps. EH Emergency Hydronic Engaged. The EHH switch is closed. Compressor is switched off. Open front emergency hydronic switch to allow occupant unit operation. LS Load Shedding Engaged. The LS switch is closed. Compressor and Electric heat is switched off. Open load shedding switch to allow occupant unit operation. On Control is configured to respond to a wired thermostat. No action if a wired thermostat is being used. Otherwise, see Configuration Settings. oP Open Door Lockout (DS1 & DS2 open; wireless). Close Room Door. Unit will not condition space with door open. nP Window Switch Lockout - (LS & INN open). Close Room Door or Window. Unit will not condition space with door or window open. HP Heat Sentinel - (WIAT > u3). No action required. This setting will disengage when the room temperature falls. Ur Un-Rented Status (EHH & INN or wireless). Front Desk needs to set to Rented mode (if applicable). F1 Indoor Ambient Thermistor reads outside the range -20°F to 200°F & the wireless thermostat is not communicating to the unit control or Indoor Ambient Thermistor (IAT) without a wireless remote thermostat reads outside the range -20°F to 200°F. Replace black Indoor Ambient Thermistor or Wireless Remote Thermostat. F2 Wireless Remote Thermostat failure. Replace Wireless Thermostat. F3 Indoor Ambient Thermistor reads outside the range -20°F to 200°F. Replace black Indoor Ambient Thermistor. F4 Indoor Coil Thermistor either above or below operating tolerances. Replace Red Indoor Coil Thermistor. F5 Wireless Thermostat failure. Attempt to rebind Wireless Thermostat or Replace Wireless Thermostat. F6 Indoor Discharge Thermistor either above or below operating tolerances. Replace Yellow Indoor Discharge Thermistor. Fb Low Remote Battery Warning. Replace Batteries in Wireless Devices. H1 High Voltage Protection engaged. Power supply voltage is to high. Check for incoming power at correct voltage. br Brown Out Protection engaged. Power was lost or voltage is low. Check for incoming power at correct voltage. L6 Discharge Air Too Hot. Clean Filter or Remove Air Blockage. LC Outdoor Coil Thermistor temperature high. Clean Condenser Coils, Check Fan for fault. Code will reset after cleaning. C2 Indoor Air Recirculation. Large delta between thermostat and return. Clean Filter or Remove Air Blockage or Close Vent Door or Improve indoor to outdoor seal. C5 Outdoor Coil temperature too high for outdoor ambient temperature. Check for Blocked Outdoor Air or Clean Coil. C1 Indoor Coil is freezing up. Clean filter, Check for fan and blower operation, Check for Refrigerant loss or Restricted capillary tube. C3 Indoor Coil is freezing up. Clean filter, Check for fan and blower operation, Check for Refrigerant loss or Restricted capillary tube. C4 Indoor Coil froze up. Clean filter, Check for fan and blower operation, Check for Refrigerant loss or Restricted capillary tube. C6 Poor Unit Performance. Check for blower motor, compressor, or electric heat operation. C7 Indoor Freezing Lockout (ICT - IAT > 20) +10 Min. Clean filter, Check for fan and blower operation, Check for Refrigerant loss or Restricted capillary tube.
tip

Why your unit is freezing up.

To understand why your AC or heat pump is freezing up, it helps to know how your system works.

There are 7 major parts to an AC system, 9 with a heat pump.

1 - Condenser/heat pump (The outdoor unit)
2 - Air Handler (the indoor unit unless the system is a package unit, then all is outside in one system. The air handler is usually found under the home, in an attic, or in a closet.)

In the condenser are the following major parts.

3 - Compressor
4 - Condenser coil
5 - Condenser fan
6 - (HPs only) reversing valve

In the air handler are the following major parts.

7 - Blower motor
8 - Evaporator coil
9 - (HPs only) electric heat strips

Some systems known as "dual fuel systems" use another heat source in place of the heat strips, usually a gas furnace. I will address gas furnaces in another post.

When an air conditioner is operating properly several things are taking place.

1 - The compressor is compressing or "pumping" refrigerant through the system.

2 - through changes in pressure, the refrigerant makes the evaporator coil get very cold, and the condenser coil gets very hot.

3 - The blower motor/fan circulates air across the evaporator coils, as the room temperature air (Also known as "indoor ambient") goes through the cold coil, it exits, cooled approximately 15 to 20 degrees cooler than when it entered. (In a ducted system, the blower is also the fan that circulates the air throughout the home.)

4 - The condenser fan circulates air across the condenser coils. As the outdoor air goes through the condenser coil, it removes heat from the coils that are very hot. This in turn removes heat from the refrigerant so it can run its cycle again, and through pressure changes, cool the evap coil.

5 - With a heat pump, the reversing valve reverses the flow of refrigerant in the condenser and evaporator coils.
In AC mode, the evaporator coils get cold, and the condenser coils get hot. But in heat mode, the evaporator gets very hot, and the condenser very cold.

Now, whichever coil is getting cold will freeze up if there is inadequate air flow across the coil, as the refrigerant in it is far below freezing, and there is not enough airflow to keep the humidity in the air from freezing on the coil.

Things that can cause poor airflow are,

1 - Dirty/clogged coils
2 - dirty/clogged filter (will only effect evaporator coil)
3 - Closed/blocked vents (will only effect evaporator coil)
4 - Malfunctioning or dirty fan

Low refrigerant will also cause a coil to freeze up, reduce efficiency and cause the system to run for long periods of time. Not to mention, shortening the life of the unit.

With a heat pump, in heat mode only, the condenser (outdoor) coil will routinely begin to freeze up in cold temperatures. This is due to the fact that the refrigerant is below freezing, and the cold outdoor ambient temp is not warm enough to keep the condensation in the air from freezing on the coil.

Note, a properly working AC should never freeze up.

A heat pump is equipped with defrost controls to prevent ice buildup.
Some are controlled by timers, some by temp.

When a HP is going into defrost mode, the condenser fan shuts down, the reversing valve reverses the flow of refrigerant and the once cold condenser coil now gets very hot, defrosting the coil. (Many people have said this process sounds like the unit is coming apart, or about to explode and are frightened by the "smoke" which is really just steam from melting ice that comes off the unit.)

During defrost mode, the secondary or "auxiliary" heat comes on to ensure that you are still getting warm air from the vents. (Again, this can be electric heat strips or a dual fuel system)

If you are experiencing cold air from the vents during defrost, that means your auxiliary heat is malfunctioning.

The auxiliary heat is used for three purposes.

1 - during defrost mode to maintain warm airflow (automatic)
2 - when the HP cannot maintain the set temp due to extreme outdoor temps. It comes on when the indoor temp drops several degrees below the set temp on the thermostat (automatic)
3 - For emergency heat source when the HP is not working. (Manual)

To recap....

Iced up coils?

Poor airflow
low refrigerant
Malfunctioning fan
failing defrost system


There are two things that can be done in a pinch to help de-ice frozen coils. This may get you by until the repairman can get there, or you can fix the system if you are a do-it-yourselfer.

HPs frozen outdoor coil in heat mode, not going into defrost?

Cover most of the vents, and turn the system onto cooling mode until the outdoor coil is thawed. then uncover vents and return to heat, or emergency heat. (this usually takes 15 min or less)

Frozen coils in AC mode with a heat pump?
Turn the system to heat with the thermostat on just high enough to get the system to come on. (again, usually takes 15 min or less to thaw.)

AC only, with frozen evap coils? (this can sometimes be seen frozen all the way outside to the compressor on the copper lines.)

Turn the system off, and the fan switch from "auto" to on".
This will usually defrost the coils within 1 to 2 hours.
(If your system has the furnace in line before the evap coil, turn the system to heat, and the furnace will defrost the coil within minutes.)



0helpful
1answer

Coil icing up

make sure the filter is very clean. make sure all supply grills are unblocked and open. make sure the indoor fan is blowing. icing coil is normal during heating mode the system will defrost using a sensor. sometimes during cold wet weather the coil will stay iced up. sometimes in cooling mode when it is cool outside 60 degrees or less the coil will ice. low freon will make the coil ice up ,also defrost control not working will cause the coil to ice up
0helpful
2answers

Will goodman outdoor ac work with bryant indoor unit

This is true as long as it is not a heat pump. Make sure they replace the piston (metering device to match the outdoor units required piston size. Or if the indoor coil is metered via TXV, it will automatically meter the refrigerant flow. If you are mismatching a system, make sure an acid test is performed on the old refrigerant and take appropriate measures with the new system if the test shows positive acid. They need to definitely install a liquid line drier.
0helpful
1answer

Have a bryant 3.5 ton outside can I change to a bryant 4.0 ton and still use the same inside equipment

This is true as long as it is not a heat pump. Make sure they replace the piston (metering device to match the outdoor units required piston size. Or if the indoor coil is metered via TXV, it will automatically meter the refrigerant flow. If you are mismatching a system, make sure an acid test is performed on the old refrigerant and take appropriate measures with the new system if the test shows positive acid. They need to definitely install a liquid line drier. Hope this helps.
1helpful
2answers

I have a Kelvinator Reverse Cycle air conditioner - Model # KSR25F-01. When I use the heating operation the "Defrost Mode" has come on and is stopping the air conditioner from working. The unit...

The Kelvinator technician came out and found that our gas was very low indicating that there was a leak somewhere - the gas should never deplete apparently (being a closed system). He checked inside and outside and couldn't find a leak so assumed it must have been an issue with the piping in the walls. He recommended not spending the money to get it repaired - he recommended it be replaced (not a cheap option but it was 11 years old and repairing wasn't likely to be cheap or a long term solution). So not sure if that is your problem but hope it helps!
1helpful
1answer

Will a bad thermostat cause the air conditioner to blow warm air

If set on COOL No, what causes warm air would be either lack of sufficient air across the indoor coil (plugged air filter or a dirty coil), insufficient air passing through the outdoor condenser coil (dirty fins), insufficient refrigerant in the system (leak) or a plugged metering device (TXV or orifice). You can check the coils and their condition yourself, the other components would need to be checked by a qualified technician.
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Two lennox heatpump 71/2 tons

check the true psi with the line psi to see if same if psi is good in cooling 225 hi and 70 low on 80'day then compressor is fine and i would start checking for temp difference on the reversing valve sometimes this will cause high suction or high discharge psi shift it manually with by energising it be cooling or heating then pull wire and see how it shifts if shifts good then txv on out door unit could be bad what is the psi in heating on the discharge line going to the indoor unit? most prv's are set at about 350 psi r22 as for suction line size its only hot gas in hp mode os no problem their shows in cooling mode as low suction psi ..hope this helps some also make sure indoor coil is clean!....thanks & rate me
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