Which means my thermostat is broken? I've pulled this from the tech manual for my fridge

SOURCE: Thermostat (1) Assembly defrost, (2) damper, (3)Thermostat???

It may be the damper between the freezer and the fresh food (FF) compartment.  If it is stuck open, the cold air from the freezer is able to keep circulating into the FF compartment.  The GE side-by-side models have the damper located in the back of the FF compartment, upper left side behind a plastic shield.

Charles T Nevin

• 4070 Answers
• Posted on Sep 04, 2009

SOURCE: automatic defrost not working, but manual is?

Yes if the heater and defrost thermostat are good then the problem is the control board.

SOURCE: I have amana bottem freezer,1 month ago i

Hello, Unfortunately the compressor likely is seized now. There are a couple of reasons that the original start device failed, 1) faulty connection. 2) poor quality part. 3) compressor was running non-stop due to other deficiencies in the unit or 4) the compressor was failing to begin with. The compressor may indeed check out ok as far as electrically ( windings ) but the mechanical component ( rotor ) has locked/seized up. You can determine whether it is the windings by checking the ohm value between common to start, common to run and run to start ( c-s, c-r, r-s ) and look for values similar to 6ohms, 3ohms, & 9ohms. Then check the start and run & common windings against the compressor casing to see if windings are shorted. In order to double check the mechanical component you'd need another hard start, ( or a test cord direct to 120vac, but that should only be done by an experienced tech ). nothing else will start it at this point obviously or you wouldn't be using a hard start already. The other unfortunate issue is this, many of these compressor's have a 10yr. parts only warranty but that was voided as soon as the 3in1 hard start was installed. In the end I'm likely not telling you anything you didn't already suspect or know in fact, but it is likely the compressor. I sympathsize, seized compressors **** ! Hope this answers your question and moves you forward. good luck macmarkus :)

SOURCE: How do I replace a defrost thermostat on a Maytag MBB2256GES?

Good day,
You have to remove the rear panel in the freezer compartment. The thermostat is clipped to the top of the cooling coil. Fairly simple job.
Here is a picture of one style..

SOURCE: I have an Amana fridge bx20s5w that is not cooling the refrig part and runs much to much.

we ll see how u need to check the defrost timer....
Before testing the defrost timer, unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard.
A mechanical defrost timer controls the defrost cycle of the appliance. In older models, the timer runs continuously and roughly every six hours, shuts off power to the cooling system and sends power to the defrost heater. In newer models the timer advances only when the compressor or defrost cycle is running - an improvement for efficiency. As the timer advances, power to the heating element shuts off and power is restored to the cooling system. If the timer does not advance, the appliance will be stuck either in defrost or refrigerate mode, resulting in, respectively, no cooling or frost build-up.
The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill of the freezer. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the freezer near the compressor.
To test whether the defrost timer is simply failing to advance, locate the advance screw and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. This advances it to the next mode. If it was cooling before, it is now in defrost mode. Simply wait about 35 minutes and check whether it has left defrost mode and has resumed cooling (listen for the compressor). If it does not advance, the timer motor is probably bad and the entire timer needs to be replaced. If it advances as it should, then you can follow the steps below to test the switch electrically.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector. The connector can be removed by firmly pulling and rocking it left and right. It is not necessary to note the position of the wires because the connector plug is keyed so that it can be replaced in only one way.

Test the timer for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. The timer has four terminals. Locate the common terminal, it should be labeled "3" or "C". If the terminals are not labeled, determine which terminal coincides with the common wire in the connector plug; it is usually the white wire.
Once you have located the common terminal, touch one probe to it. Touch the other probe to each of the three remaining terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero or near to zero ohms (which indicates continuity) for one pair of the terminals and possibly two pairs. The third pair of terminals should show no continuity (infinity).
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. Now retest the timer as you did above. One pair of terminals should indicate continuity (possibly two pairs). At least one pair should give a reading of infinity. Note however, one of the pairs that showed continuity in the first test should now read infinity and one pair that read infinity should now show continuity. If the defrost timer does not pass these tests, it is likely that it should be replaced.

Before testing the defrost heater, again make sure u unplug the freezer to avoid an electrical shock hazard. The defrost heater is located at the back of the freezer. It may be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice maker and the rear or bottom inside panel of the freezer. The rear panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way. The heater is connected by two wires.Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the heating element for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. If the reading is not between those two extremes the heating element should be replaced.


this is how u check the thermostat..... again Before testing the defrost thermostat, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Some defrost systems use a thermostat (a bi-metal switch) to prevent the defrost heater from overheating. The switch is normally closed. During a defrost cycle, the defrost heater causes the metal alloy in the switch to warm and as it does it curls back and breaks the circuit. As the metal cools, it makes a circuit again and the defrost heater starts heating again (as long as the defrost timer is in the defrost cycle). A defective thermostat can prevent the defrost heater from coming on or allow it to overheat which could result in heat damage or fire. The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky -never force it. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk - it is prone to breaking. Try warming it first with a warm, wet towel. The thermostat is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors or a wiring harness. Firmly pull the connectors or harness off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced. Test the thermostat for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading of zero when the thermostat is cold and a reading of infinity when it is warm (40 to 90 degrees F depending on the model). If the thermostat does not pass this test it should be replaced. with regard to the parts incase u need a replacement..... check out the below link.... http://www.repairclinic.com/GE-Freezer-Parts?s=b3a3c221