How to and where to install clutch spring - Husqvarna Riding Lawn Mower Yth24v48ls 48 Inch Cut

You need to remove the clutch assy from the chainsaw prior trying to replace the spring. Be aware that the clutch assy is no longer available so be careful not to damage it on removal.

Yess it goes into the groove to prevent clutch housing from turning and the position of the housing when install the retaining bolts.

The spring into the hole on the clutch housing and other end goes somewhere on the frame. It is being used as a damper spring.

The below should be correct.

Clutch and plates replacement can be performed on the motorcycle without removing the clutch shell or hub.

FIRST remove the primary chaincase cover. THEN remove six metric bolts to release the clutch diaphragm spring retainer from the clutch hub by loosening each bolt gradually and in a star sequence around the Hub circumference and then remove the diaphragm spring retainer, the diaphragm spring and pressure plate from the clutch hub and after the pressure plate has been removed remove the 9 friction plates, the steel plates, the damper spring and the damper spring seat from the clutch hub. Clean and inspect as necessary and wash all parts except for friction plates (and any bearing if removed) in appropriate cleaning solvent and then blow parts dry with low pressure compressed air as high pressure compressed air is unnecessary and dangerous. CHECK the friction plates by blowing off all lubricant from them BUT DO NOT wipe them off with a rag if they are going to be reused. THEN measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or micrometer and if any plate is less than 0.143 in. (3.62 mm) thick throw them all away and replace them with a complete new set. ALSO look for worn or damaged fiber surface material on all sides. If new friction plates will be installed soak them all in FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (or whatever equivalent oil that you will be using in the primary after reassembly) for at least five minutes. THEN CHECK the steel plates for any grooving, bluish colouring (which indicates overheating/burning and which is usually accompanied with distortion/warping) and check for distortion by laying each plate on a machinist or other precision flat surface and try to insert a 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) feeler gauge between the plate and the precision surface. Do this in several places around the plate. If the feeler gauge slips under any plate or any plate is grooved, bluish or otherwise appears to be defective discard it and replace with a new plate. THEN rotate the clutch hub and shell to check for bearing smoothness and replace the bearing if it runs roughly, binds or has any end play. ALSO check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring gear on the clutch shell at this time and replace the clutch shell if either the sprocket or ring gear are badly worn or damaged. ALSO check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both the clutch shell and the hub and replace the shell or hub if any of the slots are worn or damaged (wear here can cause clutch hang-up on release). NOW check the diaphragm spring and diaphragm spring retainer for cracks or bent tabs and replace if any damage is evident.

After having soaked the friction plates as advised above first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring

seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm). THEN install the primary chaincase cover with a new gasket and torque the fasteners to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) in a sequence top to bottom from the centre to the front and then top to bottom from the centre to the back of the cover and then reinstall the primary case drain plug and o-ring and torque it to 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). THEN refill the primary chaincase with lubricant only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (if there is too much oil the clutch may drag). THEN adjust the clutch by turning the clutch adjustment screw in until it just resists and then with the cable slack somewhat removed operate the clutch lever a few times to set the clutch release balls in their ramps and then recheck the clutch release pushrod adjustment screw again so that it just resists tightening as it is screwed in and then back it out one half to one full turn and while holding it stationary tighten the adjuster screw lock nut. THEN the cable can be adjusted to provide one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch of freeplay at the clutch cable bracket or perch on the handlebars. THEN reinstall the clutch inspection (derby) cover with the five T-27 Torx screws and washers and alternatively in a cross pattern tighten the screws to 84- 108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).

After having soaked the friction plates as required first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring
seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm).

• Put your mower in the lowest position and open the hood.
• 2 Lift up the retainer spring that holds the clutch cable to the adjustment bracket. Pull the cable out of the bracket.
  
• 3 Remove the clutch cable spring from the idler bracket. Pry the spring open with a pair of pliers if necessary.
  
• 4 Hook a new clutch cable spring over the idler bracket and squeeze it closed.
  
• 5 Slip the clutch cable under the retainer spring.
  

Either it was not installed properly or... your clutch linkage (cable) is stuck or too tight and not releasing the clutch all of the way.


Disconnect the clutch cable/rod from the clutch arm and see if you can move it or if when you remove it does it goes back further with the spring i.e. not seated with the linkage in place...? (you should feel the spring action of the clutch on the plate)
if it does spring back further the cable/rod linkage needs to be adjusted
Otherwise take it apart and reinstall. Also check the clutch pedal to make sure it did not become misalligned while it was diconnected.

the problem may have been in the damper spring setup in the clutch plate
it the clutch plate was a standard plate , it would have had 4 damper coil springs but the last plate fitted may have been a heavy duty plate that would have had 5 or 6 damper springs
if the springs are of insufficient tension then there is a grabbing action during clutch engagement but with more springs and different tensions that is overcome and the action is a smooth clutch application
manufacturers that have design faults quickly change the design as clutch shops are fussy when it comes to rework so I would think that it is not the clutch but an incorrect plate for the application

On your '96 model, you need a special tool to disassemble the clutch pack. The tool is # HD-38515A clutch spring compression tool. Jim's and several other manufacturers make this tool. JP Cycle has a Jim's Part Number: 620-198 for $50.

Disconnect the battery and drain the primary. Remove any floorboards and other thing necessary to get the outer primary cover off. Using the above mentioned tool, compress the clutch spring and remove the lock ring that holds the spring in. Take note that there is a lock ring seat on top of the spring. This part is like a solid ring that goes behind the lock ring. It is "L" shaped so pay particular attention to the way it is positioned. Once you get the lock ring off, release the tension on the tool and allow the spring to come out of the clutch outer drum. Start taking the old disc out and laying them aside. Notice where the "sping plate" goes in the clutch stack. Replace it in the same position. Soak your new plates in oil overnight and then install them into the clutch drum exactly like the old ones came out. Install the spring and use the compression tool to install the lock ring and seat.

Adjust the clutch according to service manual directions and replace the outer primary cover. Add oil and reconnect the battery.

Ride Safe
Steve

In order to remove the clutch from your bike, you must have a special tool. You'll need H-D #34761 in order to remove the snap ring holding the clutch together.

Disconnect the battery, drain the primary, and remove the primary cover. Once you have the primary cover off, you can remove the nut from the compensator sprocket at the engine end of the primary chain.

Install the H-D 34761 or equivalent tool and compress the clutch spring. Remove the snap ring and then back off on the tool to release the pressure on the clutch spring. Once the pressure has been removed, remove the adjusting screw assembly, the outer clutch spring seats, the clutch spring, the inner clutch spring seat, and the pressure plate.

Then you can disassemble the rest of the clutch. Remove the remove the four friction plates and three drive plates. Then you can remove the spring plate and the remaining plates after that. Remove the snap ring that holds the clutch assembly onto the transmission clutch gear and remove the inner and outer clutch shells, the primary chain, and the engine sprocket as a group.

For this job, I would recommend that you purchase a service manual. It's has pictures that show you what you're dealing with and in this case, a picture is truly worth a thousand words.

Good Luck
Steve