I have Bulova and found on the case M0 or MO, does this mean the year 1960?

NEED MORE INFO. From that serial number, it might be one of the old tuning fork movement watches. If the date code is from M0 (1960) through N6 (1977) it likely is. If so, it has a collector's value. In any case, the exact model, type of movement, and year would be needed to come up with a value. The serial number is just not enough.

The year made cannot be determined from the SN. Since the '50s Bulova used a 2 character date code, usually below the SN. The letter is the decade, the number is the year. For example, M4 is 1964, N6 is 1976, O5 is 1985, etc. As to value, if it is from 1960 through 1976 (M0 thru N6) it is a "true" Accutron, with a tuning fork movement, is collecrible and valuable, and the actual value depends on which specific movement and which case. Some 1977 (N7) Accutrons are akso collectible rtuning fork watches, but some 1977s are Bulova's first quartz watches, and of no value. Bulova eventually went mostly automatic (self-winding mechanical movement) with their Accutron line. Those are well-made, mid to upper-mid level watches, and of no particular value beyond that of most any good used automatic. Note, however, that there have been numerous versions of the automatic Accutrons, some fancier and nmore expensive than others, and, s ith any good watch, original cost will have an effect on value as a used watch. For example, that retailed at, say, $500 new in 2009 will be worth more today than one that was $250 new in 2009 (assuming comparable condition). There are also now some Accutron IIs, which mimic, in looks and the sweep second hand, the original tuning fork Accutrons. However, while they are well-made watches, they are just another nice quartz watch.

I'd need more info. First, is it a "real" Accutron, made from '60 to '77, or is it one of the things Bulova kept calling Accutrons after they stopped making the tuning fork movement watches? The quartz so-called Accutrons are just a nice old watch, not worth anything special. The self-wind "Accutrons", which Bulova is making now, are just a nice, mid-range aurtomatic watch. On the back of Bulova watches is a date code, usually right under the serial number (SNs themselves really mean nothing where Accutrons are concerned). The code is a letter and a number. If it begins with the letter M, or if it begins with the letter N and is followed with a 0, 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. or 6, it is a "real" Accutron, and is collectible. Some with N7 (1977) are also, but it depends on the actual watch. Bulova did make some quartz so-called Accutrons in '77. If it's a '60 thru '76, and SOME '77s, it has value beyond the scrap gold price. SOME Accutrons are even worth thousands of dollars. White gold Accutrons, compared o yellow gold or stainless, are rarer. Next, WHICH Accutron is it? is it a 214, a 218, a 219, a 220, a 224, or a 230? If it's a man's watch, it is very unlikely to be a 220 or 230 series, If it does not have a winding stem on the side, it is a 214. 214s are the most valuable. If it has a setting stem at 3 o'clock or 4 o'clock, it is either a 218 or 219 (I'd have to open the back and look at the movement to say which ine). If it says "Accuquartz" on the face, it's a 224 (NOT a quartz - the 224 Accuquartz is a hybrid of tuning fork and quartz crystal). Once we know the movement series, we need the case type. Certain cases are much more valuable than others. Then there are the Spaceview, the Astronaut, and the Deep Sea, 3 specific models they made, which are more valuable than most (but not all) of the other cases. The best I can say right now is that, being white gold, there's a good chance it's one of the more desireable specific models. If it's a 214, ESPECIALLY if it's a 1960 (M0), it's worth quite a bit more than just the gold content. To be more specific, I'd have to see a picture of the watch, which I don't think can be posted here. Try looking up "Accutron" on Ebay and see if you can find one that, if yours has a stem, has it in the same place as yours, with the exact same case - same shape, and exact same lugs (the things on either end where the band or strap is attached). Read the description. The description will probably say the movement (214, 218, etc - in fact, the movement may even be in the listing title) and if it is niot just a plain round case, probbly will say the case type (Alpha, Asymmetric, Butterfly, etc.). If it's an Astronaut, a Spaceview, or a Deep Sea, it will certainly say that. Also, look at the Accutron section of the Bulova entry in Wikipedia. (Yeah, I wrote it, but it has info that just might help you pin down exactly what you have) When you find out more about which Accutron it is, post another question under Axcutron watches here. I'll check every couple of days for the next week or so, and if I see your post, I'll narrow down the value some more.

go here > http://www.bulova.com/en_us/service_center for the manual

The value of your watch depends greatly on the model / style, age, and case composition. It goes without saying, but watches (of any mechanical quality) that have real gold cases right now are worth quite a bit more than watches with gold plated, gold filled, gold-tone, or stainless steel cases. Presentation watches like those given to employees upon retirement were often gold or gold-filled--but there's a world of difference in value between those two types of watches.

In terms of age, it's much easier to date vintage Bulova watches by their "year code" than by their serial number. If you look carefully, usually above or below the serial number, you'll see a little alphanumeric code, like L5, N3, or P6. These can be translated as follows:


Lx = 195x Mx = 196x Nx = 197x Px = 198x Tx = 199x


Pre-1947 Bulova watches used little symbols to show the year of manufacture. A picture of those codes can be found here, as well as elsewhere on the Internet:

http://www.manleyhorlogerie.com/Watch_History/bulova.htm#Bulova%20Date%20Codes

M8 in the serial number of your watch signifies that it was manufactured in 1968. Here is a list of codes that are used to identify the year the watch was manufactured just in case you were curious.
A8 = 1948
A9 = 1949
L1=1951
L2=1952
L3=1953
L4=1954
L5=1955
L6=1956
L7=1957
L8=1958
L9=1959
M0=1960
M1=1961
M2=1962
M3=1963
M4=1964
M5=1965
M6=1966
M7=1967
M8=1968
M9=1969
N0=1970
N1=1971
N2=1972
N3=1973
N4=1974
N5=1975
N6=1976
N7=1977
N8=1978
N9=1979
P0=1980
P1=1981
P2=1982
P3=1983
P4=1984
P5=1985
P6=1986
P7=1987
P8=1988
P9=1989
T0=1990
T1=1991
T2=1992
T3=1993
T4=1994
T5=1995
T6=1996
T7=1997
T8=1998
T9=1999

It's much easier to date vintage Bulova watches by their "year code" than by their serial number. If you look carefully, usually above or below the serial number, you'll see a little alphanumeric code, like L5, N3, or P6. These can be translated as follows:

Lx = 195x Mx = 196x Nx = 197x Px = 198x Tx = 199x

Older Bulova watches used little symbols to show the year of manufacture. A picture of those codes can be found here, as well as elsewhere on the Internet: http://www.manleyhorlogerie.com/Watch_History/bulova.htm#Bulova%20Date%20Codes

A Bulova "M5" code would indicate that the watch was made in 1965. Vintage Bulova watches can be dated by this little alphanumeric code:

Lx = 195x Mx = 196x Nx = 197x Px = 198x Tx = 199x

Pre-1950 Bulova watches used a variety of symbols and numbers (e.g., 47 and 48 to designate 1947 and 1948) to show the model year of the watch. A chart of those symbols can be found here: http://www.manleyhorlogerie.com/Watch_History/bulova.htm#Bulova%20Date%20Codes

Be careful because some repair centers will charge you to be the middle man even though they know there will be no charge for the repair.

I recommend contacting Bulova directly because the problem you describe is a defect in the movement and yes it should be repaired. I would recommend replacing the movement rather than over hauling.

Bulova's standard warranty is 2 year limited. You should be covered.

what what what????