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actually it takes less time to heat up and cook with the fan running
That is why it is called a fan forced oven as the fan forces the hot air all around the oven , heating it quicker and giving a better cooking result by moving hot air all around what is being cooked
How do you get it to kick in ?.Fid you spin it by hand ,if that's what you did and fan runs then you have a bad capicator. If fan runs fine in cooling and not in heat then you have a bad board
Wish I knew how old your furnace is. Let me answer your question directly. In the heat mode the fan runs independently from the air conditioning fan relay. Its either brought on by time or temperature. An old furnace will use a fan and limit control that uses a coil to sense the heat exchanger temperature and turn the fan on or off. Newer furnaces use a timer on a circuit board. 20 years or newer Ill bet its a timer board. Follow the blower motor wires back to the component and ill bet that's the culprit. Hope it helps. Good luck.
Hi, The left side fan switch should normally be in the "auto" position. If the fan is still running all the time, then there is a problem in the furnace/air handler... the fan switch in there is bad and keep the fan on when it should not be...
Hi,
You don't have to worry about that. Fan only runs when your CPU is heating up. If you are running a lot of programs at the same time it can heat the processor and can turn the fan on. Fan also runs a lot if computer performance is slow. If you can keep your CPU in a cooler place then it will run less.
Good Luck!
In the heat mode the outside unit should have the fan running. In the defrost mode, the fan should not be running but in both cases, the compressor runs.
What kind of system is this? There is a BIOS setting for performance. If you have that set to "performance" then the system will be louder since the fans will run faster all the time to keep the system as cool as possible for performance.
I would lso try using compressed air to dust all vents and fans in the system. If dust is building up, that will act like an insulator and trap heat in the system. When heat builds in the system, the fans will run faster to try to cool the system down.
you need to know if the heat strips are energized by a contactor or relay as opposed to a heat sequencer. as a general rule the contactor or relay clicks shut as soon as a call for heat is made and the fan is energized by the stat at the same time . instant heat strips and instant fan. if the heat strips have a sequencer it may take up to 90 seconds or so before the sequencer heats up then clicks and puts power to the strips and the fan motor at the same time. the high voltage usually feeds from the strip side of the sequencer through the normally closed side of the fan relay. if you changed the stat and didn't switch the fan setting switch to elec, the fan will not be energized by the stat. if it is in the gas position, you have told it that the sequencer is bringing on the fan and of course it won' t if you don't have a sequencer.. this is tough stuff to trace even for an experienced pro cause its interconnected so dual fan speeds can't be energized at the same time. most likely you have a new digital stat that was not programmed correctly to bring fan on in heat. good luck
Its necessary to run cooling fan because Amplifiers in home theater system produce heat during its operation. If you shut down cooling fan, Amplifier ICs may be damaged due to over heat.
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