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If this is one of those mits sets that come up with the "airflow message" and then shuts down--the thermal sensor is behind the lamp housing--mounted on the back side of it, near the top.... but it is NOT likely bad-only the connector goes bad. Pull the engine, remove this little white sensor and HARD WIRE it to the connector---IOW_-cut OFF that connector on both sides and SOLDER the leads to the sensor. This WILL take care of the airflow issue with this set.
Remove the panel in the back of the dryer that covers the heating element. ( the inner panel) (part that sticks out). Once that panel is off you will now be able to see the heating element and the thermal sensor. the reset button is located on the thermal sensor.
The thermal fuse is located on the blower housing outlet to the left of the thermistor. For electric dryers, the thermal cut-off and high-limit thermostat are located on the heater housing. For gas dryers, the high-limit thermostat and the flame sensor are located on the burner.
Disconnect the dryer from the power outlet and turn-off the gas supply for gas dryers.
Remove the two screws at the bottom of the toe panel securing it to the cabinet. Pull the toe panel down and off the cabinet.
Check the continuity of the thermal fuse with an ohmmeter set to X1. The ohmmeter should read zero ohms. Replace both the thermal fuse (part #3392519) and the thermistor (part #8577274) if the resistance reads open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the replacement part.
Do the same with the thermal cut-off. Replace both the thermal cut-off (part
#279973) and the high-limit thermostat (part #3391914) if the resistance reads
open or infinite. Remove the securing screws and install the
replacement part.
The high-limit thermostat is located next to the heater terminal block and next to it is the thermal cut-off.
Slide the toe panel in place up and into the cabinet and secure it with the screws.
Note: Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the component before performing the continuity test.
Yes, it is located on the back of the lamp housing, you take the screws out of the fan duct and move it out of the way then there is a screw at the bottom of the thermal fuse on the back of the lamp housing unscrew it and pull the thermal fuse up and it will come out install a new one then put it all back together.
Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.
1. Gas valve coils Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.
Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.
2. Thermal fuse Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
3. Igniter Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.
Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).
4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor) Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.
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