I started out on my bmx with a 25T sprocket and 9T driver this is the gear ratio I want but I now have 25 T sprocket with a 13 tooth freewheelwhat size sprocket do I need to change to 2 equivalent my 1st gear ratio

36 tooth
36 / 13 = 2.77 ratio
25 / 9 = 2.77 ratio

14 - 41 = 2.93 ratio
15 - 46 = 3.06 ratio..
6-7 links.. you need to move the axle all the way forward when installing a new chain... (it will stretch!) moving the axle all the way forward gives you plenty of adjustment later!!

Did it ever work with that clutch? I'm assuming that the clutch has been changed and now it isn't working. That clutch should engage at 2300 rpms but your governor might not be allowing it to rev up to it's full speed. If you remove or change the governor, that's about the only way you'll get the rpms necessary for a solid clutch engagement. Changing the sprocket without maintaining a high enough engine speed for complete engagement of the clutch first will only create clutch slippage and eventually failure. So, to answer your question, get the engine speed higher and then work on the right sprocket ratio.
Good luck!
Ed

Online documentation for the Honda X4 appears to be somewhat scarce, but the engine was also used with little or no modification in the Honda CB1300, although that configuration used slightly different gear ratios that produced less low-end torque but lower engine RPMs at cruising speed. Specifications for the CB1300, including gear ratios for the configuration of the engine and transmission as used in that bike, can be found here:

http://www.hondacb1300.net/cb1300specs.htm

Other than swapping CB1300 transmission gears for your X4 set, I am not aware of the general availability of custom transmission gears for your bike's transmission, and I suspect that they might have to be custom fabricated by a precision machine shop.

In contrast, a simpler and much cheaper solution to reducing your highway speed engine RPM would be to tinker with the forward and rear sprocket sizes for your chain drive. Adjusting one or both of these sprockets by even a single tooth (larger in the front, smaller in the back) can have a noticeable effect on the cruising RPMs. Sprockets, being normal wear and tear items, are available in a variety of sizes in the aftermarket, and you should be able to find a variety of sprockets that fit your bike. I would suggest that you start with this, as this modification is both vastly cheaper than rebuilding your transmission and easily reversible if you're dissatisfied with the results.

You can add teeth to the front sprocket or take teeth off of the rear sprocket. In the case of your bike , I do not think there is a 17 tooth front available so your best option would be to shorten your chain and drop from the 44 tooth rear sprocket to 40 tooth or a 36 tooth rear sprocket. That would be like adding one or two teeth to the front sprocket. Your stock is 16/44 so decrease from there. Be sure to ID your chain, get a chain breaker, and a new master link.

You will need either a larger transmission sprocket or a smaller wheel sprocket. The larger percentage change will occur with an increase in the front sprocket number of teeth. The way to mathematically determine that is to consider the present tooth ratio/RPM and relate that to the desired ratio. There are practical limits on how big the front sprocket can get before having interference problems. A 2-tooth increase should come fairly close. It would take about 4 to 6-tooth decrease in the rear sprocket to achieve the same results. Take your pick--the front sprocket should be cheaper and much easier to install. You will need to adjust the chain length accordingly. There will be a minor acceleration decrease due to the change. A fatter rear tire will also increase speed somewhat too. Hope this helps!

Theres a special wrench you need that fits the gear. Its easiest to take the wheel to a shop that has one and they will also be able to replace it with one with the teeth ratio you'll want.

It physically will fit and bolt up,but there are many different ratio,and drive and driven sprocket tooth counts,different final drive ratios,all monitored by the computer with electronic speed sensors.If the trans from the 95 has a different ratio than the 93,the computer will set gear ratio error codes,and possibly put the trans in a failsafe mode,stuck in 2nd or 3rd gear.On the transmission case,down by where the passenger side axle would go in,is a thin metallic tag,maybe 2"x 3",and it has bar codes,and also a series of numbers and letters.The numbers and letters,large cap,are the final drive gear ratio code.They should match on the two transmissions in question.