What are the parts of the western saddle from both sides

What does a Western saddle have to do with bicycles?

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/donald_f2ed37026a3ac881

Hi Rebecca:
Here's a link to a similar saddle that was recently advertised.
http://www.horseclicks.com/16-circle-y-western-equitation-saddle-show-saddle/saddles/859878
You may wish to contact these people to see if they will tell you what price it sold for.
Cheers

"I was told I might have a leak stemming from a cinch and I would like to see a diagram of the engine to help identify if I can fix it myself."
The only way you could have a leak stemming from a cinch is if your mechanic forgot to calibrate the air charge in the glove compartment when he rotated your cigarette lighter.
In layman's terms, either you made quite a typo, or someone is putting you on. If it's the latter case, ask him/her if you can borrow a metric crescent wrench so you can remove the bi-directional horn valve to get to the cinch. Once that's out of the way, it should be a cinch to locate the leaky part and cinch it up tight to fix it!

The saddle valve is the part you hook up under your refrigerator water supply to a water line under kitchen sink and cold water side of the copper pipes. The saddel valve looks like the parts below in photo. And some call the dual water control valve a saddle valve. If you are having trouble withe the water control valve your model takes a part number=> 241734301 Tripple Water Inlet Valve
If you have any questions once I post this solution I will be here to answer more if needed, Thanks Sea Breeze
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To access the battery, you will need to remove the saddle. The rear part of the saddle is held in place with an allen head bolt and the front part of the saddle is held in place with a ringed nut.

Remove the allen head bold holding the rear part of the saddle in place. Lift up and back to remove this part of the saddle. Now you will see a bolt with a slotted ring around the circumferance of the smooth head. The bolt head is at the bottom of what you can see. You will have to use an open-end wrench to remove this one (a socket will not work on this). Both wrenches you need are in your tool kit that came with the bike. Once this is off, remove the front saddle by lifting up and backward. You will see the battery under the seat.

The brake calipers will need to come off which is the hardest part for most. Have a " C" Clamp with an 8 inch throat is needed so you can press the brake pads inward to release pressure from the rotor. Upon removing the caliper the saddle if so equipt has to be unbolted from the steering knuckle. Two bolts hold this saddle on. You may not have one depending on the design caliper this truck has. Once these parts are off the rotor will come off

The saddle itself is quite well made and should last a good while with proper care and maintenance. However, three things concern me and one is that it is a saddle you are used to using. If you are used to the support of a western saddle and move to a close contact, it may be very uncomfortale until you get used to it. The second is that the horse you use it on is used to being under a close contact saddle. The third and most important is that you indicate that you ride ' all different horses and ponies '. You do not clarify if you are wishing to use one saddle on all. I do hope not as saddles are not one size fits all. The saddle must be fitted to your 'seat' and the tree width and rise must properly fit the size and shape of the horses back. If you are unfamiliar with this, I suggest you learn how to fit a saddle before buying anything.

Two bolts on the rear fender will need to be removed.
Also remove the passenger Pillion(Seat). Normally one bolt in the back and the pillion slides into the driver seat. Pulling back on the pillion after removal of the hold down bolt usually releases it.

The brackets to hold the saddlebags straight and away from the rear tire/ brake disc. Mounts with shims to the two bolt holes on either side of the bike. (remember those bolts removed earlier?) Center the saddle bags by eye. Sometimes it is best to have someone hold the bike straight and center from the rear. If the bike is on the kick stand, it will not be easy to center the saddle bags.

Next put the passenger pillion back in place.
Check the bracket clearance and make sure no part of the saddle bags are touching any moving part. You can bend the brackets to adjust but usually not necessary. Just be careful with the chrome fender flares.
Those curved chrome rear fender shiny things. :)
You can scratch the paint very easily while working with them.
Use a cloth/towel where you can to prevent marring of the paint.
Really simple to do with minimal tools. Some of the saddle bag bracket kits come with longer bolts. Use them!

My 1100 Vstar I used the twist rods from a set of Shoe Stretchers.
Screwed directly into a kuryakyn foot peg adapter. Black with a triangular tip worked great. Heck of a lot cheaper too!
Nice thing about this arrangement, only had to remove the foot peg bolts. Then the rear passenger seat. Easy to adjust the angle of the bracket by loosening the foot peg either side. Pull up, push down or bend out to get proper position.

Good luck!
Hope this helps!

First take off the seat, turn it upside down, unscrew the two screws and two bolts that hold the two parts of the seat together. Separate the pillion and rider seat (takes a bit of wiggling), now you can concentrate on the riders seat. undo the four screw that hold all the rubber gromets down (make a note of the direction they are facing), and unbolt the two small bolts on the front. The seat should now come apart, move the bracket at the back of the seat down a hole. Re-attach the two halfs of the seat at the front but this time one hole up. You should see a gap between the two halfs. Put the rubber gromets back on, this is where I went wrong the first time, TURN THE FRONT TWO 180 degrees and leave the back ones how they are. Screw everything back together and you have one raised seat my long legged friend.