I defrosted my Samsung coils and when turning it on and there is ice building up already. Should this happen?

First, I'm not a Samsung representative.
* Check your warranty. Call for support;
* Contact;https://www.samsung.com/us/support/home-appliances/refrigerators

*** The following is for information only.***
* The symptom of melted ice and water dripping from tray is usually caused by several things;
* Most common is ice build up in freezer coils. This happens every time the door is opened. Ice builds up on coils but is normally removed during a daily defrost cycle.
* The cycle may be unable to defrost all ice due to bad air circulation. Usually caused by rubbish blocking fan intake (bottom of freezer tray or wall.) Overloading food may cover the intake.
* Remove all food from freezer. Check for fan blockage. There should be a steady flow of cold air. If not then your freezer needs to be defrosted.
* Defrost by moving all frozen food to fridge side or cooler. Unplug fridge and open freezer door (drawer). Allow room air to circulate into the freezer. Use a house fan to blow air into freezer. (DO NOT use Hair dryer! It will damage panels.)
* Check and remove melted ice water. Check inner panels of freezer. Once defrosted the panels will be room temperature to the touch. There should not be any condensation or coldness to the panel. If it's still cold then keep defrosting.
* Once the water stops dripping. then close freezer doors.
* plug in freezer and wait 5 mins. Check freezer if inside is cold and the air is blowing cold. Reload freezer with food, take care not to overload or cover fan intake. Monitor for 2 days.

* Cleaning (Official); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AooBAPlk-Ts
* French door drawer; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZYLIRN_pk0
* Removing trays; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxTliAhbr14
* Cleaning the back with a vacuum cleaner; https://www.hunker.com/13419629/how-to-clean-samsung-refrigerator-coils

* Freezer not blowing air or not cold? Bad fan, thermostat, pump. Call for service.
Aloha, ukeboy57

This sounds like no defrost is happening. Frost is supposed to accumulate and then be heated and water runs off, routinely.

Check defrost timer and heating coil.

the repairmen didnt fix the ice build up? what can of guy was he? sounds like u have a defrost issue so check the defrost thermiator and the defrost timer as well as thermistors with a multi meter, more than likely u have bad terminator its not that expensive and an easy repair just remove the back freezer wall and on the evaporater coils u will see a small round thermostat it snaps on the the coils

If the coil is good, it could be that the defrost timer is not allowing enough of a defrost cycle resulting in ice buildup after various cycles. The ice is never being complete melted and it just keeps building up.

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

The noise that stops when you open the door is the evaporator fan. If it sounds like blades striking something there is most likely too much ice in the evaporator coils and the fan blades are striking the built up ice. If it sounds like a vibration it can be bad bearings inthe evaporatof fan motor.

Ice build up is usually a sign of an automatic defrost circuit problem. The unit should defrost close to 3 times a day depending on the defrost control installed. What you should do is do a manual defrost session by unplugging the unit, removing the freezer contents and directing a fan into the freezer compartment for just over 2 hours. This will ensure that all of the evaporator coil ice has melted. (Yes it makes a water mess) Tidy things up and return the unit to normal service after your manual defrost session. NOTE: If you have an automatic defrosting problem the fan noise can repeat in as little as 2 days as the ice once again builds up on the evaporator coils.

DO the manual defrost, LISTEN for noise after 24 - 48 hours. No noise... no worries, NOISE after 24 - 48 hours = Defrost problem. Causes of a defrost problem can be the defrost control, defrost heating element, the defrost thermostat or a wiring problem.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

This is what is happening. All "frost free" refrigerators are not truly frost free. The cooling comparment elements frost up with moisture from the air. Every 6 or 8 hours or so the fridge shuts down. then . small electric heaters fitted into these cooling elements melt the frost away. The water goes down a tube into what is called a drip pan mounted underneath the fridge. If the drain tube clogs with a piece of paper, or food or algae. The water from the frost melting stays in the pan because the drain is clogged. So each time the fridge defrosts, it builds up ICE not frost and eventually it completely clogs with a block of ice.
The other thing that can happen, is that the timer that controls this cycle fails and the heating elements never turn on. The the fridge then clogs with frost. The fridge will clog with frost if any of the following parts fail. The defrost thermostat which opens up the heater circuit when the coils reach
around 40-50 degrees, the defrost heaters mounted in the cooling coils, or the defrost timer fails.
If your fridge works normally after this, then the drain hole was clogged and you unclogged it. If it gets colder and colder again. Then the timer, defrost thermostat, or the defrost heaters have failed.
Hope this helps. You are welcome to write back to me and tell me what is happening with your fridge. I hope this helps, Best Regards, Mark

Hello and Welcome to FixYa!

Please do elaborate a bit, what you exactly mean by "it is not making ice very fast". I assume that you want to say that its not cooling the way, it is used to be ( Please Correct me if I'm Wrong). That shows "poor cooling" symptom.
The Poor cooling that you are facing might be caused(In fact the most common reason) due to the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing/opening the panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer that is exactly the thing you quoted. Such a frost build-up usually shows a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed/designed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (usually a bi-metallic switch) The defrost heater Also you need to clean the dust, lint from the condenser unit by using a condenser brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust from the unit (it is usually located at the back of the refrigerator). If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. If the problem still persists and the above quoted techniques/tips didn't work,You may need a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

Best of Luck,


Please do Rate the solution, if you feel that this helps you,


Concerned.

Hello and Welcome to FixYa!

The heavy frost is basically due to the frost build up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing/opening the panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer that is exactly the thing you quoted. Such a frost build-up usually shows a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. This refrigerator is supposed/designed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (usually a bi-metallic switch) The defrost heater
Also you need to clean the dust, lint from the condenser unit by using a condenser brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust from the unit (it is usually located at the back of the refrigerator). If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor or in severe case it might be the main CU mal-function. If the problem still persists and the above quoted techniques/tips didn't work,You may need a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

Best of Luck,


Please do Rate the solution,as a token of appreciation,


Concerned.

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
  
  
• The defrost heater
  
  

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

• The defrost timer
  
  
• The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
  
  
• The defrost heater
  
  

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.