How do you fix your broken down wheels in the middle of nowhere but you do have your emrgency kit and fixing kit ?

wheel bearing going bad. fix it now or have it strand you in the middle of nowhere later.

I had this exact problem. I had a leak where the fuel line connects to the engine. A plastic interface part was broken and not sealing. I replaced the fuel lines (from tank to engine). The assembly comes only with both send and return lines and connectors. Later, I found out that a kit to replace only the interface part exists. You cut the send line and slip the replacement part over the line and connect it up. My repair was over $450.00. The repair kit costs about $25.00. I've not seen one. Fix this at once. The car is dangerous to drive.

Follow the steering column down to the gearbox. You will see a "knuckle" that the arm goes into. It may possibly have a "donut" that looks like it's made of a tire - if not it will go into a metal flange that transfers movement to the gearbox.this is where you need to look closely and have a helper move the steering wheel as you are looking. The donut or the flange has broken and you will need to replace the part there.

you are looking for a tierod end this is the part that broke. take the nut off at the spindle(wheel side) and tap it out with a hammer. now for the part that is still on the inner tierod(middle strait bar) just unscrew the tie rod end (broken part) witch a pipe wrench and install the new one. ***do not loosen the nut behind the tierod end on the inner tierod or you will have to get a wheel alighnment***

99% chance your color wheel is broken. You will have trouble finding any replacement parts (difficult, but maybe not impossible). HP will charge almost as much as a low end LCD TV of that size to fix it, assuming they even can do so, as I do not believe they have many replacement parts left for these TVs (and are simply cannabalizing old ones, the same as most people who are attempting to fix these TVs). Check on the AVS Forum, there are several threads related to these TVs.

It sounds like a siphon issue so nothing should be broken.
Check that the drain hose does a high loop before it goes into the drain pipe. (ie. drain hose loops above the water level inside the tub). Make sure the drain hose is not pushed too far down into the drain pipe. Also if the drain hose is sealed to the drain pipe this will create an airlock and a siphon will occur, allow air to enter between drain hose and drain pipe connection.
This should help you but if there is still a problem let me know and I'll try to assist you further.
Good luck!

yes 2 solutions. the sheer pins have got broken down on that auger that wont spin, they go through the middle bar. easy fix. about 2 dollar.

The other thing is. The drive belt located directly in the middle of the machine has a plastic cover over it has slipped off or is broken.

THis is a little more tricky as you split the machine taking off the collection cage usually to fix. I charge 89 dollars in my shop to do these.

Its not hard if you pay attention to where you need to take off the parts.

Its probably the intermediate steering shaft. The shaft where it goes thru the firewall is known for clunking on these trucks. GM makes a lube kit to fix the noise. I don't have the part number handy, but the parts guy at the local dealer will know what you are looking for.

Good Luck

I know this sounds a bit cheap, but superglue/adhesive is too brittle to make a good fix. Especially seeing as the unit cracked unevenly.

I took the unit off the arm of the pushchair by pushing the little metal clip in at the bottom and pulling it down.
The rest of the unit which was still inside the wheel needs a pair of tweak nose pliars and a flat head screwdriver (and a lot of patience). You need to use the pliars to grab the unit in the middle of the little circle, then use the flat head screwdriver to push in once side of the expanding clip in the middle.

Once you have both broken parts, hold them together in the correct place and wrap A LOT of cellotape around the two bits. Then clup both bits back on and hey presto, it works!!

Just taking it for a "road test" so to speak now, but it was an easy fix. You just need to be careful when removing the parts that you don't break them beyond recognition!

I tried to pull the two parts apart with my hands after and to be fair, the fix is probably stronger than the original flimsy bit of plastic.

If anyone wants any help on how to fix it (pics or more of a descriptoin of how to get this bits off) drop me an email at [email protected].