The washer fills and agitates but does not drain. had to disconnect the drain tube from the sink faucet assembly attachment and drained into a lower than the tub height pan, but machine was still stuc

No agitation or spin? try these:

WATER PRESSURE SWITCH: This switch keeps your washer from overflowing. It is responsible for shutting off the power to the fill valve and redirects the power to the timer to start the washing machine running once the correct water level has been reached. Meter check ur water pressure switch?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash starts - then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.


Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.


CHECK THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well for worn broken teeth.

By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!




Washer will not drain:

Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement.

Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ

The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it
Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed.

If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is free cuz God is good!






Fix Washing Machine That Won Drain Washer Not Draining Water

check in ubend tube should be under sink had this problem myself and ended up just rubbish blocking it

Most new kitchen faucets feature single-handle control levers and washerless designs that rarely require maintenance. Additional features include brushed metallic finishes, detachable spray nozzles, or even push-button controls.Connect the faucet to hot and cold water lines with easy-to-install flexible supply tubes made-from vinyl or braided steel. If your faucet has a separate sprayer, install the sprayer first. Pull the sprayer hose through the sink opening and attach to the faucet body before installing the faucet.

Where local codes allow, use plastic tubes for drain hookups. A wide selection of extensions and angle fittings lets you easily plumb any sink configuration. Manufacturers offer kits that contain all the fittings needed for attaching a food disposer or dishwasher to the sink drain system.

Disposals rust out and need replacement.

Check a couple things first.
Run paper towel around top of disposal to see if moisture is leaking from around sink basket or dishwasher hose connection. Then check where tailpiece connects on side of disposal.
If these places are dry, the disposal has probably rusted out.

I wrote instructions for disposal replacement:

When I worked apartment maintenance, we replaced disposal with same brand disposal.
That way we didn't have to change out sink basket or change pipes.
How to change disposal: Disconnect p-trap and tailpiece going into disposal.
Rotate connector disk clockwise that holds disposal to sink basket.
Before installing new disposal.
Attach electric wire to new disposal.
Attach dishwasher tube to new disposal. Knock out plug inside dishwasher opening.
Push new disposal up into place, and attach to old sink basket with new connector disk.
Use new connector washer.
Re-assemble tubular pipe.



If this is your home, you want new sink basket that comes with new disposal because it looks shiny and new.
Buy a tub of plumbers putty also.
Remove old sink basket and clean opening.
Put finger-size roll of plumbers putty around sink opening, and then push new strainer basket into plumbers putty.
Tighten basket from below, wipe away excess putty around sink opening.
Install new disposal as described above.

Tips for tubular pipes:
When taking apart tubular pipes, start at p-trap and take apart as few pieces as needed to do job.
On image below loosen both upper and lower nuts, trap falls loose, and then work on disposal.
Any tubular drain pipe that gets moved while working under sink needs to be disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled.
Metal pipes have rubber washer >> always use new rubber washers.
Plastic pipes have plastic washers > plastic washers can be cleaned and re-used.
Plastic washers have flat side that goes toward nut, tapered side away from nut.



When reassembling tubular pipe, we use rectorseal on washers and joints.
Apply good amount on washer just before pushing washer in place and attaching nut.
Apply rectorseal where lower p-trap comes together.
Rectorseal will ensure tubular drain pipes won't leak.


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You might be able to buy time filling hole with epoxy or silicone caulk and let dry for 2 days.
10-year old garbage disposal had a good run.
Disposal will need to be replaced at some point.

When I worked apartment maintenance, we replaced disposal with same brand disposal.
That way we didn't have to change out sink basket.
How to: Disconnect p-trap and tailpiece going into disposal.
Rotate connector disk clockwise that holds disposal to sink basket.
Before installing new disposal.
Attach electric wire to new disposal.
Attach dishwasher tube to new disposal. Knock out plug inside dishwasher opening.
Push new disposal up into place, and attach to old sink basket with new connector disk.
Use new connector washer.
Re-assemble tubular pipe.

If this is your home, you want new sink basket that comes with new disposal because it looks shiny and new.
Buy a tub of plumbers putty also.
Remove old sink basket and clean opening.
Put finger-size roll of plumbers putty around sink opening, and then push new strainer basket into plumbers putty.
Tighten basket from below, wipe away excess putty around sink opening.
Install new disposal as described above.


Tips for tubular pipes:
When taking apart tubular pipes, start at p-trap and take apart as few pieces as needed to do job.
On image below, loosen both upper and lower nuts, trap falls loose, and then work on disposal.
Any tubular drain pipe that gets moved while working under sink needs to be disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled.
Metal pipes have rubber washer >> always use new rubber washers.
Plastic pipes have plastic washers > plastic washers can be cleaned and re-used.
Plastic washers have flat side that goes toward nut, tapered side away from nut.



When reassembling tubular pipe, we use rectorseal on washers and joints.
Apply good amount on washer just before pushing washer in place and attaching nut.
Rectorseal will ensure tubular drain pipes won't leak.

Sorry to hear you are having problems with your drain Dave. It might be as simple as tightening the nut another 1/8th of a turn. You've got to be careful here as the plastic parts for the drain can easily break if too much force is applied. Hand tighten only.

If tightening it up doesn't work then disassemble the pop up and look at the rubber washer. See if there are any signs on the washer that might tell you where it isn't sealing against the underside of the sink. Check the sink to ensure it is not cracked or chipped around the bottom of the drain. If everything looks fine then reassemble the drain and look again for leaks. It's possible something could have become trapped between the washer and sink allowing a capillary action to let water escape at this point. If the problem persists try using a little bit of plumbers putty with the washer as there could possible be a defect in the porcelin or steel of the sink drain allowing water to escape. Let me know if the problem persists and we'll have another go at it.

Sounds like a partial blockage in the drain-check drain tube and drain it plugs into. Could try disconnecting drain tube from sink drain and lower it close to floor level into shallow pan. I excess water come out slowly blockage prob. in tube or filter screen in washer.

make sure that the piece going in to the drain that moves your stopper up and down is all the way in the hole on the bottom of the stopper once that is in hold the rod down so your stop is up then attach it to the piece attached to your rod this should solve your problem good luck

No matter what type of sink you purchase, the drain and water-supply connections are generally installed in the same way. Hand-tighten a female adapter onto the drain stub-out at the wall. Slide slip nuts onto the drain arm and the sink's tailpiece. Fit a P-trap in place and tighten the slip nuts by hand. Connect flexible water-supply tubes onto the faucet's tailpieces, and route them to the shut-off valves. Tighten coupling nuts with an adjustable wrench. Remove the faucet aerator, turn on the water, check for leaks at the shutoff valves, and then turn on the faucet to check for leaks in the drain assembly. Replace the aerator.

something in your pump lean it back take hose off drain pump and clean it out