Installing this in a bathroom at my church. The old switch has normal wiring except it has 2 wires on the bottom for the exhaust fan. dont know how to hook the new one up.

SOURCE: 2-wire pull chain switch wiring in a ceiling fan light kit

If you removed a switch there should be two wires. Connect one of the wires to each of the switch wires or screws. good luck

SOURCE: I am attempting to replace an old bathroom exhaust

double check under cover there is usually a blue and white for light & red and white for fan. probably tucked under housing to far to see

SOURCE: wiring comination 2 switch, with exisiting light to new bath fan

Please note that there are many ways to wire this device.
In general, this is how the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT device is usually wired:
There are 3 wires permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are for switching _only_ and are in no way connected to the GFCI receptacle at the factory. The black is "common", which means that this is the wire that is connected to the incoming HOT (black) wire _from_ the circuit breaker (or source). When making this connection add an approx. 6 inch black pigtail to it. (more on this later.)

The red is connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to, pick one, let's say the existing lights. The yellow is then connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to the new exhaust fan.

The incoming white (neutral) wire that is in the same cable as the incoming HOT wire is connected to BOTH the white wire that goes to the existing light and the white wire that goes to the new exhaust fan. Again, when making this connection, add a 6 inch white pigtail to it.

The switches will now work.

Do you now see that to power up the GFCI receptacle all one needs to do is connect the (see above) 6 inch black pigtailed wire to the "HOT" (LINE) screw terminal and the 6 inch white pigtailed wire to the "WHITE" (LINE) screw terminal?

In this case the lower LOAD screw terminals on the device are _not_ used.

SOURCE: old wiring off knob an tube ; 70 yr old 3 way

As a precaution, always take photos of your wiring before replacing anything.
And when replacing 3-way switches, do 1 switch until it's right, and then do next switch.
That's for people who read this later.

Now let's get your wiring project finished.
Separate all the wires inside both boxes so you can test.
Is there a bare ground wire inside the box?
Are the boxes metal?
More later if you do not have a grounded box***

We are going to find the Hot wire from breaker box.
Use ordinary tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power
Turn on the power.
All your wires are separated and you do not have a metal screwdriver between your teeth.
You are standing on a dry indoor surface and are not touching anything metal
Power is ON
Test each wire to bare ground wire -or- to metal box
You are testing all 6 wires >> 3 wires for Switch 1 and 3 wires for Switch 2
One-and-only-one of the 6 wires will light up the tester
When tester lights up, that is the Hot wire from breaker.
Let's assume you can identify hot wire from breaker box (more later if needed)**

The hot wire from breaker box connects to the dark-colored screw on the new 3-way switch.
Look at your new 3-way switch >>> it has 1 dark screw and 2 brass-colored screws.
The Hot wire from breaker box connects to dark screw.
The other two wires connect to the two brass-colored screws in any order.

You connected these 3 wires with the power turned OFF

Now we have Switch 1 complete.
The other switch, Switch 2 is incomplete.
Three wires at Wwitch 2 are still separated so you can test.

Turn the power back on
We want to test the other three wires
Let's say Switch 1 is in UP position
Test three wires to bare ground or to metal box
Find which wire is HOT at Switch 2 location
Let's assume you can discover the Hot wire >>> mark this wire and it will connect to a brass-colored screw on Switch 2

Now let's move Switch 1 to the DOWN position
We changed the position of Switch 1 to DOWN, but we're still testing the wires at Switch 2 location

Re-test the remaining two wires at Switch 2 to see which is HOT
The remaining 2 wires >>> one of these wires will test Hot >> that wire goes to the other brass screw on Switch 2
So now you know both wires that connect to brass-colored screws on Switch 2
The remaining wire at Switch 2 connects to the dark-colored screw.

Whew, problem solved, time for a beer.

**But wait, how can you test for HOT if you don't have a ground wire -and- what if metal box was not grounded?
Hopefully you will have other wires covered with a wire nut or tape that are shoved to back of the box >>> you will have to pull those wire out. These will be the Neutral wires. Test your wires to the neutral just as if they were the ground wire. And then use same testing steps above.

Now it's time for a beer (or more depending on when guest are arriving)
Please reply back if you run into a snag.

SOURCE: I am hooking up a

1) Look at screw color.
New device has brass screws on one side, and 1 silver screw for each switch located on other side of device.
Hot wire goes to brass screw.
Wire to fan goes to one silver screw
Wire to light goes to another silver screw.
Wire to heater goes to another silver screw.

If you do not have a wire for each individual Load, then you will have to add wiring.

2) Electricians don't guess, they test.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire.
Hot wire connects to brass-colored screw.
If any wires on old switch was connected to same Hot wire, then also connect that wire to brass-colored screws.

Hot wire is identified.
Test Hot wire to each other wire in box, except bare ground.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire will NOT connect to this switching device.
Next, connect one of the remaining wires to a silver screw.
Turn power ON.
Flip switch to see what Load that wire controls.
By process of elimination, add wires to each silver screw and test each by flipping switch.
Breaker will trip if you connect Neutral to silver screw.

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