Wiring diagram Does not operate. There is power at the back terminals. The door switch is working. Looking for the diagram to see where the power runs.

Did you put battery voltage to the old window
motor to test it, or just replace a good motor?

Do you have voltage coming to the switch on
the correct terminals?

How about a broken wire in the harness near the door?

Hard to work on any electrical by guessing at nothing

You need wiring diagrams

Check the fuses first and then the window switches themselves. You will have to remove them and put a meter on them. You can cross the wires to see if the window will go up or down. If you can do it by crossing the wires then the switch is bad.

Dealers-hmmph.
You may have to keep looking for another broken wire. To the driver's master switch, a tan wire looks like the hot wire (feed) for the switch. And a black wire is ground, originating at the master switch and going back into the cabin with the wire harness, and then to a nearby ground source, probably behind the left kick panel. If you pull the master switch off, key on,, check for power on the tan wire terminal of the switch connector. Use a test light or a voltmeter. Now if you have a hot wire on the connector, put one volt meter lead on the hot wire terminal and the negative lead onto the black wire terminal. If ground is good, voltmeter will read battery voltage. If ground is lost, voltmeter will show nothing. Same with test light-check for a hot wire with key on. If yes, put test light lead on hot wire and use probe to touch ground-if ground is good, tester will light up. Alternatively, you could remove the left kick panel and check the security of the ground to frame there.
The only place I know for a wiring diagram would be a repair manual. Haynes manuals are about the best (about $25 at parts stores), short of a factory service manual for big bucks.
If still no luck with windows, and no hot wire with key on, pull the circuit breaker for the windows on the fuse panel under dash. With key on,. one of those terminals for the circuit breaker should show power. Ground a test light and probe both terminals to check for power. If no power there, check under hood fuses or fuse links that feed the fuse box. If CB has power available, well, that's the feed for the tan wire-sounds like either the tan wire or the black ground wire may have a break. If power to switch, check ground wire.
As a last resort, try a new circuit breaker if powered at CB terminal but nothing at driver's switch. If power is to switch on tan wire, and ground is working, consider that you may have gotten a defective master switch-not likely, but known to happen.

Often, power windows are run from a circuit breaker in the fuse panel. At the driver's door master switch you should have one hot powered wire, when key is on. And the ground wire for the power windows originates at the master switch and goes back into the cabin to a nearby ground. You may want to look at a wiring diagram of the power windows for your vehicle to see if it is like this. But you should be working at the master switch, and you should be looking for this hot wire, or it or the ground wire may be broken where the loom enters the door. I found a broken ground wire there on a Chrysler once-just like yours, no windows worked, but all motors did.

There is a black rubber flex boot between the body an the door ,power and ground wire's for the switch run through it . Opening an closing the door over time can cause the wires to break . Pulling the door inside trim panel to get to the switch wiring connector to test for B+ voltage an ground is the way to test electrical . Looking at a wiring diagram to see what wire is what should be done also. Do power lock's work ?

Window Operation
The window system operates under the control of the accessory delay relay. The smart junction box (SJB) will ground the coil side of the accessory delay relay when the ignition switch is in the ON position. When the accessory delay relay is active, power is supplied to each window control switch. The window control switches direct power and ground to the appropriate power window motor.

If the other windows work ,it's not a fuse problem . Broken wire's ,master switch !

Hello Dale,

Having checked the thermal fuseto be good i will give you a partial list other things that could make the dryer not start

start switch

door switch

timer

circuit breaker, use your meter set to volts ac and check for 240 vac at the outlet,if 240 not at power outlet check for burnt connection inside outlet or bad circuit breaker

if 240vac at outlet check for 240 vac at terminal block on back of dryer where cord connects,if 240 at outlet but not terminal block replace cord , if burnt connection at terminal block,replace cord and block

finally the motor,manufactures do not publish wiring diagrams online and the only way for me to tell you to use jumper cord to check motor is find the wiring diagram inside of control panel and place one wire on the terminal indicated as neutral on wiring diagram and one wire on terminal indicated on diagram as run winding

firstly though check door switch to have contunity (0 ohms) and the start switch to have (0 ohms)WHILE PUSHING IT IN(the start switch isa momentary contact switch and will only have contunity while its pushed in)
to check timer again use wiring diagram and find chart that shows various cycles and with timer set to a cycle the two wires is says will have contunity will be indicated by a solid black line on the diagram

Good luck, Gene

T105 is 120volt timer with NO NC terminals:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/t105.pdf
The model number of timer shows inside the door panel. However any Intermatic and some GE timing mechanisms can fit into the same box, so wiring has to be checked with diagram shown in manual to be be sure.

Problem is not clear.
You are operating two different things: the filter pump and the pool vacuum?
You want the filter to operate via the timer.
And you want the pool vacuum to turn on whenever you flip a power switch, except the power switch is wired into the timer ... which means you have to flip the timer manual override lever and flip the power switch to operate the vacuum.
To work around this problem, rewire switch wires so they connect to terminals 3 and A.
Black wire to terminal 3 and white wire to terminal A.

For more information, add a comment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-Intermatic-timer.html

Hi.

E1 and F5 (F5-E1) means that the Self clean latch will not lock. The problem is usually fixed replacing the door latch. If the door latch is working, check wiring to door latch. The control module causing the error is not very common but possible. If the latch and wiring are OK, check control board.

Here troubleshooting from manual:

1. If door latched:

1. Disconnect power from unit.
2. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
3. Replace door switch.
4. Re-apply power.
5. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.

2. If door not latched:

1. Disconnect power from unit.
2. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
3. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.

3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective.
4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.
5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.

Here parts and diagrams: KERC507EAL1

Regards.

Ginko

Go to furnace and shut off power, remove blower door compartment. Inside you will find a control board where thermostat wires are connected. Should look something like this:

R-Red Wire= Power
G-Green Wire= Fan
W-White Wire=Heat
Y=Yellow or Blue Wire=Cooling.

It sounds like you have a bad motor speed. So try this:

With Power Still Off, on the same control board there is a terminal usually marked Cool and Heat. There should also be a couple of terminals that are named park. The wires hooked to these are the fan wires..

Exchange the Heat and Cool wires on the terminal board. Put everything back together and try cooling again, if the fan comes on
then you have a burnt out motor speed. Go back to furnace and change
the heat and cool wires around, next if Cooling had the black wire hooked to it, put yellow or blue on Cooling and black to park.


Note: The reason why you put the blower door back on is because it
has a door switch that if not properly seated, you wont be able to power
up anything

You need a 12v lead to the ignition switch, a 12v lead from switch "run" terminal, to coil battery terminal. You also need a lead from the ign switch start terminal to the small post on the starter solenoid. Battery connects to engine block (-) and large terminal on starter.(+) This will give you start and run. Good luck...Hope this helps you!