Will not run. Spark O.K.,,prime gas runs stops,,

SOURCE: the mower will not stay running when I ingage the blades an I have to jump start it an put gas in the carb to get it to start but when it starts it stays running till I pull the botten to start the bl

Hello itsmcfly32:

From your Description it Sounds like a Stator/Charging Coil Problem.
If there is Not Enough Voltage to Keep the Carburetor Solenoid Open with the PTO Engaged, then the Stator/Charging Coils or the Voltage Regulator (if Applicable) is is Bad and this is causing Low Voltage that is Causing the Carburetor Solenoid to Shut Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor Jet when you Engage the Blades; or the Seat Safety Switch is Bad and Requires Replacing or the Conection Points Require Cleaning.
Check the Seat Safety Switch First.
>>The Following is the Instruction File for Checking the Seat Safety Switch.
>>***PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.***
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. **Make Sure the Switch has a Good Connection. Now; On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). The Seat Safety is Showing No One is Seated in the Seat when the Clutch or Blades are Engaged.**
If the Seat Safety is Good, then
Check the Voltage.
>>Go to this Site Addy; http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=3438&p_created=1101706364&p_sid=bkP1h4rj&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9MjksMjkmcF9wcm9kcz0mcF9jYXRzPTAmcF9wdj0mcF9jdj0mcF9wYWdlPTEmcF9zZWFyY2hfdGV4dD1DaGVja2luZyB0aGUgQ2hhcmdpbmcgU3lzdGVt&p_li=&p_topview=1 and Use the Information and the Test Chart Links to Properly Determine the Charging System on your Engine and Correctly Test the Charging Sytem to Determine if it is Charging Correctly. These Charts and the Testing can be Used for Almost All Small Engine Charging Systems (Kohler, Tecumseh, Honda, ect). This Site Addy; http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/alternator_id.pdf will Assist you in Determining you Charging System on this Engine.
The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines. It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated. ***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Coil. Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and Must Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel. **BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. *** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in.. The Stator (Charging Coil) is the Flywheel. Simply Disconnect the Wires, Unbolt the Stator and Replace with a New Stator. Assemble the Engine and you are Good to go.
Replace the Voltage Regulator if you Determine it is Bad.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

SOURCE: Mower deck will not engage.

you have sheared off the keyway either on the mandrel or pully on the engine

SOURCE: riding lawn mower keeps flooding

It sounds like the inlet needle seat is not closing all the way,allowing fuel to overfill the carburetor.The inlet needle seat may have dirt in it.You will have to remove the carburetor bowl and check for dirt or debris in bowl,if so remove the float assembly and check for a peice of dirt between the inlet needle and seat.If there is none you may have to replace the carburetor or rebuild it with a carburetor kit.You should also chang the engine oil because the overfilled carburetor drains to the crankcase,filling it with fuel,check the oil level and see if it is high,that would indicate fuel is in the oil.Hope this helps

SOURCE: Ariens sport zoom 1232.It stopped running,will not start unless

Small piece of dirt or debis under the fuel inlet needle causing the engine to flood out. I would clean the seat with a q-tip and a little jewlers rouge, polish the seat and install a new needle. Hope this helps. If it still leaks then replace the needle and seat due to it being damaged

Testimonial: "pulled the float/needle valve and solenoid needle valve, cleaned including seats. then used and jar underneath and turned the engine over to flush. "

SOURCE: possible carburetor problem? Mower runs for

i have a lt 1000 2005 when i start it with cold engine it boggs for a minute then it starts to run smoothly please help me