Can you explain a bit more because the front engine pully is suppose to be tight. It bolts directly to the crankshaft and it's got a keyway into it. Check the keyway to see if the pully's key has sheared off. It it has then you need to fix that first. i suggest you check for shafing somewhere else in the other belt pullys for scarring or a derailment rod loose or something.
SOURCE: Deck Belt keeps coming off
I assume you mean the engine pulley by "front pulley"? Is the belt guide still in place? It bolts to the side of the frame and runs out to the engine pulley to hold the belt on when it's disengaged. Sound like your's may be missing/broken off
SOURCE: drive belt is too loose, already replaced belt and
I had the same problem with my Craftsman Lawn Tractor. The Drive Belt (which is not adjustable) is only engaged when the Brake Pedal is released (the Brake Pedal is located on the left side of the tractor, near the foot rest on my Tractor).
The Symptoms: My Tractor lacked driving power, and would not go up an incline, but the mower deck was powerful and working fine, even though the Tractor seemed to lack power and moved slower than usual, and would not travel up an incline.
I too, changed the Drive Belt, which initially seemed to help somewhat for a very short period of time, and then the same, lack of power problem, re-appeared again. The belt was not the problem, but only seemed to work somewhat due to the rougher texture of the belt's surface against the pulleys.
I also changed the Plastic Clutch Pulleys that engage the Drive Belt, thinking that they may have been worn down to a point that the Drive Belt could not fully engage with these Pulleys. No Luck.
NO ONE, NOT EVEN SEARS ON-LINE REPAIR ADVICE CENTER HAD A SOLUTION. THIS WAS VERY FRUSTRATING INDEED.
There had to be a solution: After much investigation, I eventually discovered the problem, which actually was easy to solve, and I would like to share this simple solution with others facing this same Frustrating Problem.
The Brake Pedal, when released, causes the Drive Belt Clutch Pulleys to move, and thus Tighten the Drive Belt. When you look under the Tractor, there is a Protective Metal Plate mounted to the Bottom of the Main Tractor Frame which covers the Brake Pedal Shaft and attached Mechanisms. Over time, Grass Builds up in between the Protective Metal Plate and the Tractor's Main Frame Deck, creating a very narrow space between these two pieces of metal.
This area is very difficult to get at, and almost impossible to clean out. Over time, Grass Clippings accumulate in this hidden area, and harden to an almost rock hard clump.
These Hardened Clippings accumulated between the Brake Pedal Mechanism and its fully released metal stop position. Thus, preventing the Brake Pedal Mechanism from moving to its fully engaged position.
I used a long screw driver to break up the compacted grass clippings, and an Air Compressor Blow Gun to break up the packed grass and blow the area clear. It takes awhile to do this cleanup, and is a bit messy, so do it outside, but be patient, and be sure to clean out all the grass that is lodged in this hidden area.
What was happening was that the Packed Grass was so dense that the Brake Pedal could not Fully Release, thus only Partially Engaging the Clutch Pulleys and the Drive Belt, hence the appearance of a loose Drive Belt even when the Brake Pedal was released.
Once the Packed Grass Debris was cleaned out, you will immediately notice the Drive Belt being tighter than it was previously when the Brake Pedal is released, and when you test drive the Tractor you'll find that everything works perfectly, like it was brand new.
Good Luck...
Rayko
SOURCE: mower deck drive belt keeps breaking
I HAVE A CRAFTSMAN 18 H.P. 3 BLADE 46" MOWER DECK.
1. THE PLASTIC PULLEY COVERS ON BOTH SIDES OF MOWER...WILL TRAP STICKS AND DEBRIS WHICH VERY RAPIDLY WEARS THOSE BELTS..I REMOVED MINE
IF IT IS RUBBING:
1. EITHER THE BELT HAS STRETCHED-REPLACE
2.THE SPRING MOUNT (WELDED TO DECK) GOT BENT...STRAIGHTEN
Locate the two belts on the left side (passenger side) of your Mitsubishi Lancer. The outer belt is a serpentine belt, operating four pulleys and the inner belt is your alternator belt.
Follow the serpentine (outer) belt to the three pulleys lined up vertically near the front of the engine compartment. Locate the middle pulley, which is the tension pulley for the belt.
Loosen the bolt on the middle pulley with a socket wrench by turning counter-clockwise. Do not remove the bolt, just turn it a couple of times. Loosen the tensioner bolt on the side of the of the pulley, facing the front of the vehicle.
Remove the serpentine belt and then loosen the bolt on the alternator. With the alternator loose, move it forward so that the alternator belt loosens up and then remove belt from the pulleys.
Install the new alternator belt by placing it over both inside pulleys. Tighten the tension on the alternator belt by moving the alternator back and keeping tension on it by holding it back with a long screwdriver. While the alternator belt is tight, use a socket wrench to tighten up the bolt on the alternator.
Place the serpentine belt back on the pulleys and then use a socket wrench on the bolt on the front of the tension pulley. Once the serpentine belt is tight, tighten up the bolt in the middle of the tension pulley.
Start the Mitsubishi Lancer's engine to test the alternator belt and make sure it is working properly. Once you have verified it is working, turn the engine off.
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