SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Washer Problem
This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place.
Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. NOTE: You DO NOT have to drain the tub to repair the lid switch.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions or need help locating the correct part, please let me know by posting comments.
SOURCE: Kenmore 90 series top loader washer water level.
There are easy checks before you replace the level selector body
remove the trim plates at both ends of the control panel to expose Phillips head screws 1 at each end. remove the screws
lift and swing the control panel up and over the back, it is hinged at the top.
The washer can be operated in this condition for testing
1 Rremove the air hose, and blow it out.
often water remains in the tube after changing levels, the water is not compressible so a small change in water level in the tank, makes too much difference in the sensor.
reconnect the tube and try a cycle ~1/3 chance of fixing it
If fail,
2 The spring inside Kenmore water level sensors that reacts to air pressure in the tube is not up to the job and stretches, not noticeable till changing water level settings moves the anchor point of the spring.
pull off water level knob from control panel front, from control panel back depress lock tab at right of level selector body rotate counter clockwise 45 deg and remove
adjacent to selector knob shaft is 1/8inch nut, turn clockwise to raise water level counter-clockwise to lower water level, test, adjust, test adjust ~1/2chance of fixing it
If fail
replace level selector body
SOURCE: What is the capacity in cuft of a Kenmore 70 Series washer?
it is a large capacity 2.3 cf with a small case.
SOURCE: Kenmore washer won't stop filling w/ water
The problem is most likely the water level switch. This would be the case if the water is able to be turned off with the dial on the washer and not running all the time.
If it is running all the time and you have to turn it off at the water line valve, then the problem is a stuck water fill valve.
If you need more help, post a comment.
You can find information on the parts at partselect.com.
You can buy parts from them or find them locally if you want.
Thanks,
Tim
SOURCE: What is the capacity of my Kenmore model 110.
I THINK THAT'S A 3.0 OR 3.5 CU FT. THE MAX NOW YOU CAN GET NOW IS 4.0
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