Powermate pm0545212.02 wont generate

If we assume for the moment, that the internals of the generator are all ok. This problem is usually caused by not running the unit on load for a long time, a year for instance. During this time the residual magnetism in the field coils will slowly decay. When the unit is running the field coils control the power generated by the main windings. The higher the excitation voltage in the field coils, the higher the voltage generated by the main windings. The field coils are controlled by their magnets which, once a voltage has been generated, they will then self excite themselves.
However, if all of the magnetism has decayed then the field coils cannot generated because they have no excitation to start them off.
What you need to do is to find the field coil windings and while the unit is running with a load plugged in to it, you need to flash a voltage across the field coils.this will excite the field coils, part of that is used to do whats called self-excitation, honest...it is.
If you do this then a 12 volt car battery is a sensible thing to use for a power supply. But, as soon as the field coils start to self-excite then that voltage will increase far beyond 12 vo9lts. That is why you need a good size load connected, As the unit starts to generate then that load will alert you to remove the temporary supply, if you leave it connected the battery acid would rapidly boil and it can split the battery cases. That is why it's called 'flashing' it up. Once generating it wants leaving for a good hour,
If that does not produce results then the fault is deeper and requires testing by a qualified engineer.

Check the voltage sent to the field when running. It will probably be around 12 volts. You can try connecting a lantern battery BRIEFLY to the field to re-magnetize the field. Try bothe polarites.

Some have had a bad rectifier and one had a bad transformer that generaates the low voltage from the generated output. He had a broken wire from the winding to the wire from the transformer. He was able to reconnect the failed solder joint.

Well, its not exactly a published procedure, but this is what I would do.

Check field for continuity between leads, as well as continuity from each lead to the core. Between leads, you should have continuity, but you shouldn't be able to measure anything (perhaps in megohm range) between leads and core.

Once you have continuity, check your diode. You should have continuity in one direction only. If not, replace diode. Don't worry about capacitor / regulator at this moment.

Check stator winding for continuity between leads, (don't forget the 12 volt winding too), as well as between each lead and the core. You should not have continuity to the core from any lead.

Make sure breakers are reset, then check continuity through them. Should have it, replace if not. Same goes for the outlet itself.

Reassemble the engine, and start it. Check for a DC voltage at the 12volt battery charger port. If you have it, then your capacitor / regulator is shot. If you don't have it, replace the diode (even if checked good) and the capacitor / regulator. If still don't have 120vac, you can try to flash the field by momentarily touching a small lamp battery (6 volt lantern) to the core, and to one of the brushes. Just for a moment. Then restart. Exact flashing instructions are usually in the user manual.

Have fun!

1. Check for any blown fuse and replace. It can be traced directly from the output lines.
2. Check field excitation. The field excitation is supplied by the battery to the excitation coil through a pair of carbon brushes. If the brushes are worn out, no excitation field is supplied and no output is generated. Replace carbon brush if found worn-out.
3. Use an analog multitester to check the continuity of the carbon brush and the field coil.
   

1. Check for any blown fuse and replace. It can be traced directly from the output lines.
2. Check field excitation. The field excitation is supplied by the battery to the excitation coil through a pair of carbon brushes. If the brushes are worn out, no excitation field is supplied and no output is generated. Replace carbon brush if found worn-out.
3. Use an analog multitester to check the continuity of the carbon brush and the field coil.
   

Replace the sockets they have most likely gone bad, I have found this on a lot of generators I've worked on.

The field is always dc, They loose their magnetism.

Two suggestions. One: check for voltage from the secondary coil wires (if it has one). Two: unless stated do not do this, I have always flashed the excitor circuit through the 120vac receptical. Give these a shoot and I hope it works for you.

Yes! The generater must be running. Only apply voltage for one or two seconds when exciting then check for ac voltage with a meter. You can try again if no voltage. Note: if exciting the field does not work your problem may be something else.

Here is a simple test to check field and other wiring. With engine off apply 12v ac 1 amp to 110v outlet plug on generator. This will energize the field windings and should cause the armature to produce dc voltage at the brushes and produce a nice magnet. If there is a short in the field or broken wire or shorted capacitor there will be no dc reading at the brushes. . This test is the opposite of what actually occurs when the engine is running. That is the armature produces a magnet fed thru the windings, regulator and brushes. If dc voltage is present at the burshes, remove 12v ac and start engine to check for output. enjoy