It sounds like the evaporator fan isn't working,when you open the freezer door you should hear the fan running in the freezer,if not bad fan motor,part number 242077701 and it's around 75 dollars
go here and you can look up parts at sears
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/FRIGIDAIRE-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-FFUS2613LP1/1428/0165000/R1009011/00005?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=ffus2613lp
Hi, DiAndelo, may be a glogged drier in the system or gas volume to short. thanks!!
i just saw that you wrote to me on a fridge answer i gave to someone else,are you having a problem with your dryer?if the dryer has heat for like the first 15 minutes and then no heat you have bad gas coils located on top of the gas valve,if when the flame ignites and the flame is going out to soon you could have lint blocked in the dryer or vent line,you can try removing the vent line from the back of dryer and see if that helps it,if so you have a blocked vent line,also you should clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,let me know what problem you have and i'll try to help you out.
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SOURCE: Amana BX22A2W - freezer works, fridge not cooling
Check the damper in the top back of the fresh food section. make sure that it is open and air is coming through it.
SOURCE: The bottom freezer keeps icing up at the intake
The problem is with the defrosting system. Likely one of three components: the defrost timer, the defrost thermostat, or the defrost heating element. In my case, it was the thermostat. But first check out the timer since it is easily accessible under the front of the freezer. A red shaft sticks out. It has a notch in it, so make a mark on the housing, lined up with the notch, and check over a few hours to make sure it is turning. If not, you need to replace it. If it turns OK, turn off the power and remove it. Check the resistance between contacts 1-4 while rotating the shaft manually. It should read zero ohms for most of the rotation, then be an open circuit for the rest of the rotation. Now check the resistance between contacts 1-2 during rotation. Most of the rotation, it should be an open circuit, then zero ohms for a small part of the rotation. If it fails this test, replace it. If it passes, then the problem is most likely the thermostat. You need to turn off the power and remove the drawers and drawer rails of the freezer, then remove the back panel. Defrost, if you haven't done that already, and remove the thermostat. You can test it (see below), but I would suggest just ordering a new one and replacing since this is likely the culprit if the defrost timer is OK. If you want to test it, check its resistance at room temp (should be an open circuit), then stick in a a working freezer for an hour or so, and test it immediately after pulling it out of the freezer (now should have very little resistance). If it is an open circuit when cold, no power can get to the defrost heating element! GOOD LUCK
SOURCE: Food in refrig crispers freezes. Top of freezer too warm.
Good day,
You are right about it being little or no air circulation. There is a fan motor in the freezer, which you can access by removing the rear panel of the freezer panel.
That's the good news. The bad news it is a DC variable speed motor controlled thru a thermistor and powered from the motherboard located in the back wall of the refrigerator.
You can remove and take the motor to an appliance parts house that deals in GE parts. If they determine the motor is bad, then you could effect a repair.
If not the machine is too complex, and some parts so expensive that repair is best left to a GE qualified pro.
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