Probably a carb problem if it will start but not carry on running, possibly dirt in the float bowl
SOURCE: My briggs & Stratton star but they don not
Remove the brass bolt holding the carburetor bowl on and clean it real well. It has some very small holes in it that carry gas up to the carb and may be partially or completely clogged, causing your problem. All holes must be clear.
SOURCE: Briggs & Stratton Model 92502 3.5 HP Engine with
Hi hjconn...
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
NOTE: Before you dissemble the carburetor:
Make sure you mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you dissemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Also check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting fire at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting spark then:
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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SOURCE: I have a Briggs & Stratton 500 series push lawn
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
When a primer bulb is slow to return to a static conditon there is a restriction in the fuel supply. Since this carb is mounted directly on top of the fuel tank the troubleshooting for this involves removing the gas tank and carb as an assembly from the engine. Remove the end bolt and then the side bolt spacer that is just above the tank. Be careful or the spacer will drop. Pull out on the tank until it slides off of the intake. When the tank is free of the engine tile the bottom of the tank toward you and disconnect the throttle linkage. NOTE the hole the linkage is connected to! Set the tank on a flat surface and remove the carb mounting screws. STOP! Do not lift the carb off of the tank until your sure that the gasket and diaphragm are not stuck to both mounting surfaces. You may have to carefuly slide a thin knife blade FLAT across the top of the tank to free the carb from the tank. There will be a SPRING on the bottom of the cabr also. Do not lose this spring and ensure you see how it is installed! Once the carb is free of the tank clean the screen under the carb and the carb with carb cleaner. Reassemble carb to tank. Fill tank with gas and re-check primer bulb BEFORE you reinstall the tank and carb on the engine. If it still does not work.. properly you need to clean the passages again. Worst case you remove the primber bulb to see if there is debris inside the bulb plunger area.
Installing tank and carb to engine....
Tip the bottom of the tank toward you.. connect the throttle linkage, watch the o-ring that is in the carb intake sealing area and make sure it seals. Install side bolt and then the end bolt.
Just back tracking here.. I have determined this is most likely a 11A-B04E000 Yard machine with a 5.0 Hp engine... (
Briggs and Stratton refers to this engine as the 10T500 series.
ENGINE Parts list is here:
http://www.brandnewmowers.com/pdf/11A-104B090EIPL.pdf
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
.
SOURCE: briggs and stratton 190 cc series engine on troy
Hi aliciamichae...
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Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the generator is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Mulching loads the engine much greater than collecting or side ejecting as the grass cannot escape, maximum revs should not exceed 3600, there will be a stronger govenor spring available, or bending the arm that connects to the spring, but do not exceed 3600
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