SOURCE: Kenmore 90 Series Washer
You have a broken lid switch. Its # ll in the diagram. Part # is 3949238. Let me know if you need info on how to replace it, Dave www.washermd.com
SOURCE: Kenmore 80 Series Top Load Washer not agitating
Check out this you tube. Had the same problem today. Tipped washer on its side and replaced coupler between motor and gearbox. Parts are about $15
This is a good diagnosis video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYOP0_KCYT0
SOURCE: Kenmore series 70 washer will only fill with water.
I recently had this problem. It was found that the main drive belt broke and the washer would fill but not spin, agitate or drain. I replaced the belt and everything worked again. A defective or disconnected cover switch would also cause the same problem.
SOURCE: Kenmore Washer Model 110.26712693 will not agitate
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.26712693&pathTaken=partSearch
I assume that it will neither agitate NOR spin.
If that is the case, the problem points to the motor Coupler.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the Motor Coupler is fine, the problem may point to either the agitators themselves or the transmission.
First, I'd pull the agitators and check for worn or damaged splines inside the agitator or on the agitator shaft.
Following is a description of how to take them out.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
If the agitator and shaft are OK, the problem may be in the transmission.
See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and service manual for top load, direct drive washers.
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
I'd also look at the troubleshooting section of the manual.
Starting at page 10, you'll see a description of how the transmission changes from agitate to spin mode.
The key (and likely problem) is the "agitator spring".
The spring holds the agitate gear down so that the two sets of splines on the agitate gear are connected and the agitate rack can turn the agitators.
See the following Whirlpool parts list for a blow-up of the transmission and how the various gears and springs connect.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
See the following for how to remove the transmission and clutch.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
Tearing apart the transmission is a bit messy but if the problem is the spring or agitate cams, it's a lot less expensive to fix than a $170 transmission.
Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.
Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.
Remove the transmission cover and drain the oil.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Carefully remove the clip that holds the main Spin Gear on and remove it.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
Check the spring, Agitate Cams and the cams in the Neutral Drain Assembly.
Re-assembly is obviously the reverse of taking it apart.
If you're reasonably comfortable with tools you can fix it yourself.
When we had a problem with ours, we ended up spending less than $30 replacing the agitate cams, neutral drain assembly and oil instead of $170 for a transmission. It was worth fixing.
If the machine WILL spin but WON'T agitate, the problem points to the Agitate Spring in the transmission.
See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manuals for how the transmission works and what the spring and Agitate Cams do.
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf
Also see the Whirlpool Parts List for top load, commercial washers although the consumer models use the same transmission.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf
SOURCE: model 22748 kenmore 70 series washer. fills but
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.92274800&pathTaken=partSearch
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
It is also likely the source of the burning smell.
(Sears price $18.86 but available from most appliance repair shops)
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
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