Dishwasher not draining water

If you have cleaned the filter sump and you are sure the kitchen side of the drain hose is ok, then I suspect there is some problem in the separation circuit between the wash and drain pumps in the dishwasher.

See this diagram.
The turbidity sensor (item 321) could be faulty. This is supposed to check wash water quality and drain it out and bring in fresh water during wash cycle. The other possibility is the flapper valve (item 328) is not working properly. This valve is supposed to separate the drain and wash sides of the dishwasher.

First thing to do is buy a dishwasher cleaning kit (Finish brand if you can) from the supermarket and run empty dishwasher with it according to instructions on the kit. Use the hottest cycle available.

If this does not affect the quality of wash, then start checking the parts I mention above.

Hope this helps.

Sir,

GE dishwashers will have a sumpentrance screen ( #4 ) that should beremoved and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which isbehind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separatedrain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the mostcommon GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drainsolenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stopthe draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain portwill not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. Thesolenoid can be ohmedwith an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GEdishwashers have a selfclean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back.The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body.This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow thedraining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and theplunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstaclefor the draining water in the backflush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twistor distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to beaccessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the selfclean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drainhose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked forrestrictions.

click this link for more help

Thanks
Good Luck

Hi,
Check your heating element..

Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4589033-dishwasher_problems_heating_element_not

Dishwasher Maintenance
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4319937-dishwasher_maintenance

heatman101

I rethought your problem and will provide a generic answer that is common to your brand of DW....

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and good day...Thanks for rating my effort......thanks....The Fang.

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

In order for you to see the diagrams..here is a great link...anyone can use....

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html..you may need to scroll down to get to where you need to be...but these issues are GE specific...and there are other related issues you can see here.
I have all this material in a vast data bank of my own but it is PDF format which does not translate well to these medium.

Good luck and good day...please rate my effort.....The Fang.

Hope this

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and ggod day...please rate my effort......thanks....The Fang.

Some water always remains in the bottom of the DW (al least with most DW) but here is some help....

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and ggod day...please rate my effort......thanks....The Fang.

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and ggod day...please rate my effort......thanks....The Fang.

It sounds like you have an Air Gap...a separate device that is used to prevent back flow into the DW. Take off the top of the air gap and see if it is gunked up and or clean it with a shop vac...as well disconnect the line to the drain evac it as well... also there is a reservoir in the back that is attached to the drain pump...take the screws out...see that it is clean and free of debris...be careful as glass or other particles can be in there. Also have you had a new dispoal installed if so the drain plug may not have been removed. As i read more I am certain you have an air gap...make sure it is cleaned and free from obstruction....if this does not solve the problem...here are some other GE specifc things and a link to help......


1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.

5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.

Replace the motor if defective.

6. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

Here is some GE specific info and a link.....

GE dishwashers will have a sump entrance screen ( #4 ) that should be removed and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which is behind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separate drain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the most common GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drain solenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stop the draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain port will not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. The solenoid can be ohmed with an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GE dishwashers have a self clean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back. The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body. This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow the draining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and the plunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstacle for the draining water in the back flush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twist or distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to be accessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the self clean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drain hose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked for restrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled water falls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes through the filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( we hope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into the collection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump out mode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closes the piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collection chamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve is located in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the drain direction only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drain line check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve in the collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out is complete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into the tub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Here is a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data base but since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to this format...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html


I hope this helps...it is always useful to include the Model #...more specific instructions can then be provided

Good Luck and good day.....please rate my effort...the Fang

hi you may have something in the sump there's a screen on the right side ofthe spray arm with 2 screws remove them and take screen off use yourfingers to probe the cavity be careful it could be glass. If there is something in here it will make a grinding noise and stay in drain cycle forever.

If it does not correct the problem

!.You may have an electric pump . and it could be a check valve at the pump and hose assembly...where the check valve is...see below . so it could be a bad pump but I doubt it.

GE dishwashers will have a sumpentrance screen ( #4 ) that should beremoved and checked for any gookus, see 1 or 2 screws on the cover top, which isbehind the lower spray arm. Almost all ( some newer GE dishwashers have a separatedrain pump and motor - but for our purpose, we will talk about the mostcommon GE dishwashers ) GE dishwashers have a drainsolenoid ( #1 ) that can fail and stopthe draining. If the solenoid cannot pull in the silver plunger, the drain portwill not open to allow the motor and pump assembly to drain the water out. Thesolenoid can be ohmedwith an ohm meter for continuity, or tested to see if it is receiving 110-120 volts AC. Many GEdishwashers have a selfclean filter ( #3 ) inside at the back.The draining water must pass through a plunger in the self clean filter body.This can get clogged up, or the plunger may twist and distort and not allow thedraining water to get past. The filter can be removed from the inside and theplunger will twist out of the self cleaning body for testing/checking. Next obstaclefor the draining water in the backflush valve ( #2 ). This valve can twistor distort and block the water flow as well. The drain port will need to beaccessed to check this flapper valve, the drain port will untwist from the selfclean filter body. All hoses in-between the items mentioned above and the drainhose itself all the way to the house plumbing should be checked forrestrictions.

Some extra filter, draining tips and pictures....

During the wash and rinse modes of the cycle, soiled waterfalls down the back of the tub and into the filter area. The water comes throughthe filter and back into the tub. During the wash and rinse periods all ( wehope! ) the water will pass through the filter. The soil will settle into thecollection chamber and is held there. When the dishwasher goes into the pump outmode the water in the sump is pumped through the collection chamber. This closesthe piston valve to the inside of the tub. The pump flushes the collectionchamber of all the food soil and pumps it down the drain. A check valve islocated in the drain line port. This valve allows the water to flow in the draindirection only and prevents the water from coming back into the tub. The drainline check valve must close in the back flow direction or the piston valve inthe collection chamber may not reopen into the tub after the pump out iscomplete. Water should "fall" through the filter and go back into thetub....the heavier food particles go down into the chamber and are collected.

Hereis a link for you to check out...I have all this info in my data basebut since it is in PDF format it does not translate well to thisformat...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gedishdrain.html

I hope this helps...good luck and good day...please rate my effort......thanks....The Fang.