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Either locate the belt routing diagram that is usually located under the hood somewhere, or take a photo of the path of the current belt. Locate the belt tensioner pulley. Using an appropriate ratchet or belt removal tool, release tension on the old belt and slide the old belt off the pulleys. Thread the new belt over the pulleys in the same configuration as the diagram (or photo), release tension of the tensioner and slide the belt on it. Allow the tensioner to take up the belt slack. Inspect the belt for proper routing and to ensure that it is on all pulleys correctly.
basically the grooves go on the grooved pulleys and the back of the belt runs on the idler pulleys
there are about 3 different configurations for belts as they run nor power steering / power steering, ac and no ac systems so to get a picture you will have to comment on what is running and the motor size
All you have to do is rotate the belt tensioner to relieve tension on the belt to remove. it. The belt routing diagram should be located on the right (passenger's) side strut housing tower inside the engine compartment. Route the new belt according to the diagram, and rotate the tensioner again to slide the belt onto the last pulley before releasing it. It may be easier to slip the belt over the water pump pulley last, depending on how your engine is configured.
A drive belt routing diagram is needed when replacing a drive
belt to
help simplify the installation process. The problem arises as there are
many
different ways a drive belt can be configured. In this configuration the
belt
length will vary not allowing the belt to be installed. Also alternative
configurations could turn a particular accessory the wrong direction,
creating
more problems. Always reinstall the drive belt in the exact
configuration as the
previous belt to prevent these problems. Always use high quality
replacement
products to avoid premature drive belt failure. If a multi rib drive
belt fails
it must be replaced immediately to avoid such situations such as engine
overheating and loss of the power steering system. Whenever a belt
replacement
is required inspect the pulley condition to ensure there are no sharp
edges on
any of the pulleys, this will cause the belt to shred and fail. Confirm
that all
pulleys are free from debris such as small pebbles, these pebbles will
cause the
belt to pit and significantly impair the belt performance. The belt
tensioner
plays an important role to the drive belt performance, if this tensioner
is weak
it can allow the belt to lose tension allowing the belt to jump and
skip. This
condition will result in noises such as squeaking, chirping and ticking.
Because a/c has become pretty much "standard" on most vehicles instead of an option, belt routing without the compressor is generally a nightmare if not impossible. BUT there is a company (Pretty sure its Dorman) that makes a bracket with an idler pulley that is configured to fit right where the ac compressor was...Thet way, routing remains exactly the same and you can even use the same belt #.
Yours Maybe Missing But Ford Puts A Sticker On The Front Crossmember At The Radiator Somewhere Close To The Hood Latch It Shaws The Belt Routing For Your Vehicle's Engine Hope This Help's
Hope this helps! If the belt seems too long for this configuration, some later models route differently to get more contact with the alternator pulley to reduce slippage:
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