How do you remove a removable towbar that is stuck in place?

This, to be honest, is a bigger job than it should be. On the Quest you need to start inside the trunk.
You will need to unscrew the screws on the inside tailgate handle and remove it. Then gently lever around the edges to remove the entire cover panel from the tailgate. This will give you access to the screws (or bolts) holding the narrow outside trim panel that the light is fitted inside. Remove this trim, unscrew the small lens cover for the number plate lights and replace the bulbs.
**Don't Forget to check the bulbs work before you refit the removed trim panels.**
Clean the inside of the lens while it is off to keep the light as bright as possible.
Refit the narrow outside trim. Refit the inside trim panel, pushing the edge clips until they 'click' into place. Refit the inside handle. Close the tailgate and recheck the lights work.

First check the basics. Remove, check, and refit each spark plug and lead in turn. Check them for damage, dirt and oily coatings. If they are OK remove each plug to test for spark. A helper is useful for this bit. With the plug out and fitted into the plug lead, hold it with insulated grips against the engine block and get your helper to crank the engine over for 4 or 5 seconds. Your looking for a clean blue spark.
Refit the plug and lead before moving on to the next one.
Next check the injectors. Use an extra long flat blade screwdriver. With the engine running AND keeping well clear of all the moving parts of the engine, place the blade end onto an injector and your ear to the handle end. Your listening for a very fast regular 'ticking' noise. Try each injector, one by one. If you don't get the regular 'tick' on one or more of them you could have a faulty injector.
If these methods don't find the problem you possibly looking at valve issues. Valve issues usually involve taking the engine to bits.

you should get 18 ohms across an element if its ok swich off cooker remove shelf's normally 4 screws holding on back panel inside oven you can now see element 2 screws hold element in position you may see them inside oven or failing that remove rear panel of oven and undo screws pull off spade connectors refit new element it dose not mater witch way arond the cables go as long as the earth is in the right place if fitted

1. First you need to disconnect the battery. Negative terminal first and then positive. When refitting the cables, positive first and negative last. Do not reconnect the battery until the replacement alternator is fitted and wired up.

2. Now you will need to remove the serpentine belt. Locate the tensioner pulley and you will need to use a socket and wrench to release tension on the tensioner pulley so you can slip the belt off. Before you start work draw a diagram of the belt routing over the various pulleys so you know how to refit it. There is a video in the link below that shows you how to remove and refit the belt on your 4.7. But you will not need to remove it entirely from the vehicle as long as it is slipped off the alternator pulley.

3. Once the belt is removed you will need to disconnect cables connected to the alternator that are readily accessible. There should be one cable set on the rear that clips out and and one on top that must be removed by removing a nut.

4. You have to remove the alternator from its mounting points by undoing the bolts that are securing it which will be all visible and accessible. There should be one on the side rear and 2 on the front. Once the 3 bolts are removed, you may need to move the alternator up and down vertically to loosen and free it from one of its mounting points.

5. Now you can bolt the new alternator in place using the same bolts as you removed and connect the cables to it.
Refit the serpentine belt, double check the cable connections to the alternator and then you can reconnect the battery.

6. Start the engine and check that the serpentine belt is running freely over the pulleys and is properly aligned on the pulleys. There should be no alternator warning light displayed on the dash if you have fitted the wiring to the new alternator properly but check .

7. There is a photo in the second link below of the 2008 4.7 engine. Click on the photo in the article to bring it up.

How to Change Your Serpentine Belt Jeep 4 7L

Jeep Grand Cherokee WK Engines

Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine to T.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.

you shouldnt need to remove the rear valance to fit a towbar ,i would suggest you contact a authorised towbar fitting workshop as it is not permitted to fit a towbar yourself ,it has to be done by a company with the correct authorised dealership as the towbar has to be certified with a europeon certificate of homoglonation and a plaque .then vehicle has to be presented at the vehicle inspection station for conformity .Then the paperwork of the vehicle changed to show its fitted with a towing hitch and a fee paid for this service .also the electrics have to be connected by a auto electrician as every annual vehicle inspection the electrics are tested as well where a towbar is fitted .

using a tx20 driver remove the pump cover (remove filter and looking down into sump you will see screw at approx 10 o'clock), check for obstruction, may be a piece of glass etc so go careful, remove any debris and check the impellor turns ok. The unit will not drain without this cover refitted but you can check impellor is rotating whilst it is off. Check all outlet hoses, particularly the spigot connection under the sink if this is how it is fitted, Good luck

awkward with diff carrier in place but possible need car jacked up high as you can remove lower plate on carrier for better acces remove hand brake cable from callipers release lock tab remove the mounting bolts and the fork feed calliper round brake disc towards rear of carrier on bench note correct fitted position of pads remove nuts holding each pad clean mounting faces well if this not done new pd can be damaged fit and secure new pads unwind adjuster bolt operate calliper lever to check adjuster working should hear it click if ok refit io car guide in poition locate in position a taper gound on to bolt helps as easy to miss hole in calliper when happy it correct gently remove bolts fit fork and tab secure bolts engage fork lugs in calliper arms operate calliper lever by hand till freeplay is taken up pads now in correct position do other side refit cable and lower plate good luck

Ok - I will answer my own problem seeing as though I have now fitted it!
1. remove door (2 screws)
2. There is a tensioned wire loop holding the front part of the boot seal in position. - prize off the plastic cap at the 11 o'clock position, all will become clear and you will be able to remove the wire loop.
3. Remove top of washing machine (2 allen screws behind caps at the front.
4. Remove soap dispenser draw and any screws holding the front control panel and top of the door.
5. Remove bottom front plinth (just pull it off) underneath are a couple of screws holding the front panel part of the machine, remove these.
6. Remove front of machine giving you access to the steel band which locks the other end of the boot seal in position. Slacken this band right back using a nut-spinner screwdriver. Pull off the old boot and clean the lip ready for fitting of the new boot.
7. Fit new boot seal using a squirt of washing up liquid as lubricant if needed (mine didn't) to reseat the seal.
8. Refit and tension steel band.
9. Re-assemble front panel, ease boot back into front lip position then refit wire loop using a suitable pair of pliers/molegrips to crimp the retaining plastic cap back in situ.

That wasn't right though. There is a 1/2 slot for a 1/2 inch breaker bar and when two holes are lined up you stick a drill bit or similar peice through to lock it in place till you get the belt routed then pull back alittle bit on the breaker bar to remove tension from the drill bit . Remove the drill bit and release tension on breaker bar and remove it to put tension on the belt.Then check alignment , positioning, routing of the belt visually.