Coils all froze up freezer at about 30deg. and frig getting warmer by the day. after manually defrosting the coils i could tell the defrost thermostat was bad. popped top and filled with water... got a new one on order, and everything else tested and seems to working fine. can i bypass the thermostat and defrost coils all together until the new one arrives? I beleive all i would have to do is follow to and from the defrost element (which has the thermostat in line) and connect those two wires correct? ( i ask because there are other wires that would lead to an ice maker if one was installed.
Take a hair dryer and defrost the coils totally this should keep you for a week or so.
turn the ref off and do it,do not hot wire it,you will melt the liner,dangerous.
SOURCE: fridge doesn't get cold enough
you have either a Defrost heater / a defrost timer/ or a defrost bi-metal that is bad. if you post your model # i can look it up and show you how to set it into defrost to see if the heaters are ok
Since you replaced the timer already that leaves two things you need to check set it into defrost if you know how and remove the panel in the back wall of the freezer you should see the heater(s) are on if not check pwr 120vac at the heaters if 0 volts the bi-metal is bad
SOURCE: ice maker making hollow cubes
check your incoming water pressure, change the water filter recently? hollow ice cubes is a sign of low water pressure
SOURCE: GE built in Fridge does not defrost and freezer ices up
Defrosters are commonly controlled by a primitive timer and this may have a 'dry' and a 'wet' (humid) climate setting that will cause the defroster to cycle generally every 12 or 24 hours.
If set wrong (by accident or on purpose), it can allow too much frost to accumulate before attempting to defrost.
This can cause a gradual buildup of ice.
Also the heating element for the freezer may have failed open so it never heats at all. The connections that need to be checked are often buried between the in- and outside walls.
The timer is probably still OK since you apparently aren't having a problem on the refrigerator side.
SOURCE: freezer not working
Sounds like a defrost problem or a plugged drain... to get it to work temporary defrost the freezer. Unplug the refrigerator, open the door and get a blow dryer and warm up the freezer. wait until the water stop dripping out or about 12 to 24 hours and then you can plug it back in . it will work for 2 to 3 weeks.
To unplug the drain.defrost the freezer .remove the back cover. Use a pipe cleaner to clear the drain. pour a few cups of hot water down the drain.
The defrost systems is:
HEATER-DEFROST
THERMOSTAT-DEFROST
Adaptive defrost control
Start with the adaptive defrost control board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A �d� in the freezer temperature window and �F� in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. �d� and �F� will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
Heater / Thermostat
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.
SOURCE: GE MDL:TBX25ZLB Top Freezer Refrigerator Freezes up
You need either a WR51X314 defrost heater, or more likely a WR9X413 defrost control (defrost timer) for your TBX25ZLB. Unfortunately, these part are listed as "No Longer Available". Next time you want to defrost it, find the defrost control at the back of the refrigerator section, very near the temperture set knob (the one that goes from 1-9). You will most likely have to pull the knob off and remove the cover to find the visible part of the defrost control timer. It is a round flat looking plastic part, usually black or white, smaller than a dime, with a groove in it which you can turn with a flat blade screw driver. Turn it slowly clockwise (they usually make a clicking noise as you turn them) until it makes a rather loud click. Now if the refrig was running, it will stop and turn on the defrost heater. If the heater is good, it should begin to glow red and heat until the frost melts or the timer advances back to the run position (usually about 30 minutes). (if there is lots of build up on the freezer, it will most likely take longer than 30 minutes of defrost heater operation to melt it all. You can help it with your hair blower, if you think you need to. ) All this will help to eliminate the defrost heater itself as the problem. A larger parts store may have a defrost control timer left in inventory, or be able to suggest a generic defrost control which you can use. In the mean time, you can defrost your refrig manually this way once a week or so for 45 minutes, then manually advance the timer again to the run position. (If the defrost control timer is bad, it usually will not advance itself back into run) Send a comment with how things turned out or if you have any other questions. Please don't rate this, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my score.
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