Re: In the pictures of the these pants have pleats down...
The pleat is not sewn in. When I first bought these pants they came with the crease down the leg, but after washing them and steaming the pleat wore out.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
There is more than one way. This is an easy way to make an elastic waistband on mid to lightweight fabric.
Begin by measuring the waist diameter and subtracting 2" from the measurement.
An easy way to make an elastic waistband is to sew the ends of the elastic together, creating a loop with the elastic. Be sure there are no twists in the elastic before sewing the ends together.
Fold the elastic in half using the seam as one edge and mark the other side with a pin. Fold the elastic in half again and mark the two other folds.
Your elastic should now have 3 pins and the seam quarting the circle.
Hopefully your pants have a center, back and two side seams, making the next step easy. If not, fold and mark the front back and sides like you just did with the elastic.
You're now ready to pin the elastic to the OUTSIDE of the pants. Line up the edges of the fabric and elastic. Match the marks on the elastic to those on the pants and pin them together.
Using a quarter inch seam, stretch the elastic between the pins/quarter marks and sew it in place.
IF your machine has a lightening stitch, use that. If not a zigzag stitch will wear better than a straight stitch, which will also work but may snap if used on a stretchy fabric.
After you have attached the elastic fold it to the "inside" of the pants taking care not to fold or bend the elastic. You have just created a nice finished top edge to your pants!
Giving the elastic a stretch so it fits the fabric, pin the front, back and sides like you did before, making sure to pin the lower edge of the elastic.
Stretching the elastic to make it fit the pants, stitch the lower edge close to the edge, again with a stretchy stitch if possible.
Next stitch the top close to the edge from the front. (I know it's already attached, but this will keep the top looking nice.) 1/8" looks nice, but just make sure your distance to the edge is consistant.
Sit back and admire your handy work! You've now got the elastic sewn on and there are no exposed raw edges.
If you are working with a heavier fabric let me know and I can explain how to make a casing for the elastic. The kind you thread the elastic through.
When dressing your mannequin, it's important you find the articles of clothing. The clothes must fit the mannequin properly and they mustn't have any wrinkle or creases. Make sure to steam/them the clothing on both sides of the garment. Remove the tags on the clothing if they can't be hidden.
Always start from the bottom of the mannequin and work your way up, leaving outer layers last to ensure they do not crease or wrinkle.
If the mannequin's legs are close together and you can put the pants on without detaching them, do so. In this case, it's best to put the mannequin in a seated position with its legs out straight ahead.
If you are unable to fit the pants on the mannequin's legs while they are attached, remove the legs and put the pants on separately. You can then reattach the legs when you are finished. If this is your first time reattaching the legs, ask for help because this part can be tricky.
Once you get to the torso of the mannequin, you may find you are working with a shirt without zippers or buttons and can't be opened. In this case, you will need to remove the arms from the torso before you begin. You can then put the arms back into place when you have finished.
If you are working with sitting/reclining mannequins, you will find it can be difficult to dress them in certain styles of clothing, such as tight jeans. You may also need to use larger sizes in order to fit them. It may be difficult to layer the clothing on these types of mannequins. You may also have similar difficulties dressing mannequins with bent arms.
Always take a final look at your mannequin to check and see everything looks right, the buttons are done up, etc.
Once you become more experienced with dressing a mannequin, you will be able to spend more time in styling them with the right accessories, popping the collar on a shirt, or just rolling up their sleeves to bring some life into your display.
Good luck!
Australia is known to differentiate betweenpantsandtrousers. shorts are similar to trousers, but with legs that come down only to around the area of the knee, higher or lower than the knee depending on the style of the garment. (wikipedia)
Call me crazy but most Snowboard pants as of yet don't have a separate "fit". That means you won't have any described as"loose", "baggy" "straight leg" etc. What you have instead is that snowboarding pants are made w/ space and flex @ the knees and are wide enough for boots @ the ends. Any adjustment to "fit would have to made in choosing what size you planned on wearing. Hence if you wanted em "baggy" get em bigger etc...
First, UNPLUG THE IRON. DO THIS PART COLD. Clean the soleplate with scotch brite and WD-40. Next, you will have to remove the WD-40 residue from the soleplate with something like windex. Make sure you get around the steam holes. Next-Plug it in and fill it with 50-50 mix of water and white vinegar. Set it for steam and let it run through. Refill it with plain water and steam it out again, until there is NO VINEGAR SMELL. This will clean the deposits out of the tank and steam vents.
Sorry, I don't understand just what you mean by "length to start". Length of what - stitch? hem turn-up? Let us assume you are taking up a hem of a pair of pants. Try them on and put a pin where you want the hem to finish i.e. this will be the bottom of the pants. Take pants off, turn them inside out (careful that your pin does not fall out!) and fold the excess pants on that pin mark. The excess fabric should be on the outside, not tucked inside the leg tunnel. Measure how much it is from the existing hem to where you folded it over, let us say for the purposes of this exercise it is 4 inches. Your hem is to be 1 inch and you need 1/2 inch to turn under for a neat finish, total 1 1/2 inches, so you need to cut off 2 1/2 inches from the bottom of each pants leg. Fold 1/2inch at new leg bottom (wrong side of fabric to wrong side), press, fold 1 inch hem same way and press. Place pins every 2inches or so at a right angle to the hem edge. Pins should come out 1/4inch from edge of hem where the 1/2inch neatening fold was made (this is where I wish I could draw a picture!). Fold the hem back inside the leg tunnel. The pins should make the fabric fold under only enough so that 1/4inch of the hem sticks out beyond the pants leg. You will sew on this bit using the blind hem stitch (04 on my 7550). You might need to adjust the stitch width - not length - so that the straight part of the stitch goes along the hem bit and the zig-zag JUST bites into the pants leg fabric. I do hope this lengthy explanation is of some use to you!
1/4 C. Apple Cider Vinegar : 1/4 C Water
Pour into the iron and let it steam through; have anything that you want to have a permanent crease -- like pleats in a skirt or the front seam of slacks? The vinegar/water mix will make it a strong pleat. When pleated skirts were the fashion in the 70's, I had a white gaberdine skirt and used clear vinegar to avoid any discoloration, and the pleat would not quit!
×