My washer sometimes gives an F11 error code-"serial communication error". It still works, but I'd like to resolve the problem before it breaks completely. Is this something I can fix? How do I start troubleshooting?
I believe EVERY machine will have this F11 error eventually. Here is what fixed mine. Remove the top cover by removing the three 7mm screws on the back of the machine at the top. Slide the cover to the rear and lift off. The CCU board has 2 relays on it. They have white plastic covers. One is labeled K4 and I believe the other is K2. There are five legs on each relay soldering them to the circuit board. Remove the circuit board from the machine. It is the one you can see with the top off in the back of the machine. Unplug all the connectors. Unsolder the 2 relays...brand name Omron. With a jewelers screwdriver carefully remove the plastic cover on the K4 relay. Examine the contact points on the normally open contacts and I will guarantee they will look dull and burnt. They should be bright and shiny. You can burnish the contact points lightly and clean them with electrical contact cleaner. If you take off the cover of the 2nd relay you will see the contact points are nice and bright and shiny. Swap the 2 relays and resolder them on the circuit board. While you have the board out, take a pencil eraser and rub it on the contact points where all the connectors slide onto the board. Spray the electrical contact cleaner to wash any residue away. Carefully reinstall the circuit board and replace the top cover. Our machine has done dozens of loads since I did this with no more problems. I expect another failure at some point when the points deteriorate on the swapped relay. At that point I will try and find replacements for both relays. The K2 relay apparently has less voltage going thru the contacts and does not fail. If you feel real comfortable, you can check the "wiping" action of the points by manually operating the relay when you have it out. I adjusted mine to give a bit more wipe on both relays. I hope this helps...it worked for me!!
Thanks rjnolfe. I will admit to giving this about a 30% chance of working, but figured what the heck, otherwise, we all would be wearing dirty clothes until the repair guy could come. So far so good. The relays looked like you described -- the K4 looking grungy and burnt, while the other one was as shiney as a new penny. Cleaned them up and swapped them, and got through the test cycle just fine. We'll see how long it lasts, but definitely have earned some browny points today.
I pulled the board, cleaned all the contacts and connectors, cleaned the contacts on the relays, exchanged them and nothing changed. Previously the door would not open and I could here the relay click over and over. I did a rinse and spin to drain and get the door to open. Now the relay clicks the same way and the machine will not lock the door. I suspect the relay was trying to open the door previously and now the same relay is trying to secure the door.
Thanks rjnolfe! I pulled the CCU board and cleaned all the contacts and connectors to it. Cleaned the contacts on the K4 relay which had a black carbon buildup - used a fine sandpaper and then denatured alcohol. That fixed the F11 errors! Went to test it and immediately got a DL error. It was caused by the "Door Switch" connector which didn't have a good enough connection to the CCU. So I pulled it out and pushed it back in and wiggled it to the left or right a little. As you're looking at the front of the CCU, this connector goes along the (left) side. There's 4 connectors on that side and this one is 2nd from the front. See the link at the end of this post for a picture of these connectors. Lastly, if by mistake, you plug the "Flowmeter" connector into the empty (unused) socket that is all the way to the left on the front side of the CCU you will mmediately get an F14 error (oops!) It's really supposed to be plugged in to the right of the "Door Switch" connector. Here's the link (go down to 5-1 or page 39)https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/Sr...$FILE/Duet%20Job%20Aid.pdf
Hey mark..how hard is it to get white contractor covers off the relays.they mention a watch makers screw driver, is there trick.. .
Daniel: Yes, a small and thin screwdriver should work. The trick is to push the little plastic tabs in on both sides (out of the slots of the cover). If the little slots break you can tape (masking) the cover back on, to the other relay cover (that you shouldn't need to open).
There's a test you can do for the door lock. Go to the following document (same one I mentioned in previous posts) https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/Sr...$FILE/Duet%20Job%20Aid.pdf (go down to 5-1 or page 39) and unplug the connector that's labeled 'Door Lock Solenoids'. It has 3 contacts on it. On page 41 they show the readings (in ohms) you should get, which is about 60 ohms. They screwed up the test points which should read as 3 to 2 and 2 to 1. If you measure 3 to 1 (which is what they wrote) it will measure around 120 ohms. If you have trouble reading the contact numbers then just remember that contact #2 is in the middle. To make these measurements you will need a multimeter (make sure it can measures ohms). For those who don't have one you can buy an inexpensive one for about $20. After a month I started getting FDL errors. The black relay (K6) part number G2RL-1A-E 12VDC (16A 250V) had failed. It has 6 legs that go into the circuit board. 4 of them are on one end of the relay and the other 2 are at the other end. These 2 are what activate the electromagnet when current is applied and then the contacts close to make a complete circuit. My contacts were clean. The electromagnet is what failed. Here's a simple test that you can do without ever having to open up the relay. Measure the resistance (ohms) of the 2 legs mentioned above. It should read around 362 ohms if you're using my old multimeter. The contacts on this K6 relay must be closed or else the white relays (K1 & K4) can't open nor close the door lock.
My frequent F11 and occasional F11 + FdL errors were fixed following the SamaraiRepairman YouTube video on Troubleshooting and Repairing the F11 Error.... I entered some comments on this YouTube that may help others. In short, I had loose and oxidized connections ar the CCU. In my particular case, I had no relay issues. FYI, I have a 2005 Whirlpool Duet GHW9300. Started getting F11's almost a year ago. Came and went. Lately, I was getting the error perhap 40% of the time. Happened during all cycles and even different cycle phases (e.g wash, rinse, spin). Did happen more frequently with a larger load (I.e. larg unbalance and thus vibration). These situations jive with the occasionally bad connections issue I was experiencing. So far, 14 loads straight and no errors at all...praise God and thanks Samarai Repairman! Mike
Since my original post on swapping the relays, I have replaced them. They are commonly called sugar cube relays since that is what they resemble. Don't remember where I got them, but it was online and they were less than $10. With the board out I also went over the board under magnification and found several places where solder joints looked poor so I hit them with the iron. It looks like this problem can be caused by bad relays, solder joints or both.
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The DL code and the F11 code appear on my machine. My 'temporary fix' is to try to unplug it. But now, that doesn't work. I've used the diagnostic information that I found on the web.
The control must be in the OFF state before pressing the touch-pad sequence to start the test.
Starting the test mode
Close the door.
Press the Control On button.
Select the DRAIN/SPIN cycle.
Select NO SPIN by pressing the SPIN SELECT button, as needed.
Push Prewash Option button four (4) times within five (5) seconds. C:00 will show in the display.
NOTE: If Model does not have PREWASH Mode as an option, press RINSE/HOLD.
If the Starting procedure fails, push PAUSE/CANCEL button. Then repeat the starting sequence.
Test Program Control during Execution
To advance to the next step of the test procedure, push Prewash Option button two (2) times.
this step worked for me..but if your machine does not have the pre-wash button of the rinse/hold button..press the extra rinse button..and if this is the case once if finishes the "test cycle" thats it..you do not have to press the button again and it should work fine =0) Thanks Epatjn.
This worked for me Too! Thanks a lot
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I too fought for a long time with my Duet. My brother-in-law soldered the contacts but that didn't work for long. The solution that has worked for over a year is the cheapest and easiest of any I've come across. For less than $10 get a large spring clamp and clamp it to the processor (ok I "borrowed" mine from my husband's woodworking shop)
. This seems to hold everything in place and has worked without a hitch for over a year. The clamp lies flat enough to put the cover back on and you're good to go.
My Hero!!! We have tried so many of the online suggestions. THIS WORKED PERFECTLY!!! Thank you for taking the time to post this solution. I was just about to order a new main board.
Yesterday I did two loads of laundry and it took me about 5 hours with all the F11 codes that came up. I tell you, I was beyond frustrated! My husband and I looked on here to see what we could do instead of buying a new machine. We tried this because when he pulled the top off the machine it turns out that the piece is only attached at one side. The other side was about 1/2" from where it should have been. We clamped it and have since ran 5 loads, heavy, light, high spin, low spin, and it's worked!! Thanks!!
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Attention F11 Sufferers!
There is too much misinformation regarding the solution to this problem on the internet. I attempted the repair of my board several times only to get another couple of months before the F11 error would resurface. I found this shop on the internet that repairs the circuit board for $79.99 with a guarantee to be better than new. Selling_surplus repaired my board over 1 year ago, and I have not had a single glitch since. The service technician that actually repaired my board had incredible communication, and he informed me that they upgrade the components on the board that actually CAUSE the relays to fail in the first place. As an engineer myself, I'm glad that someone is actually doing ROOT CAUSE ANALYSIS instead of just fixing the symptoms. I can't say enough about these repair guys. You can find the repair service listed on Ebay here:
http://shop.ebay.com/selling_surplus/m.html?_dmd=1&_in_kw=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
Here is the link to the repair service if it was not posted above:
http://shop.ebay.com/selling_surplus/m.h...
I'm a very satisfied customer. Just read this guy's feedback!
It looks like the new website for repairs is www.CircuitBoardMedics.com. I actually had the same company repair the power supply out of our plasma TV.
You both are absolutely correct! Worked on the boards for the F-ll code on my Whirpool. Verey efficient,professional. Can't say more. Will recommend to anyone having a problem with a computer board. Reasonable prices also.
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The fix for the F11 problem is trivial. Just unplug the connectors on the CCU (located at the top rear of the washer), apply a little vaseline to each connector (don't worry - excess is not a problem), then plug it all back up. There is logic behind the solution. As has been posted previously, see http://www.flickr.com/photos/mysteryonionpatch/471156850/ for all the details. Many thanks to the author of the flickr post and those who contributed to it. It saved me a bunch of time, money, and frustration!
I took the motherboard out and searched around for cracks with a microscope, I found that every one of the relays had
bad solder joints with micro-cracks around the legs. This did not
happen due to wear or vibration.This was a new replacement CCU motherboard.
It was just a bad solder job on the
factory wave solder machine. QC issue.
After re-soldering all the relays legs I have run the machine for a month now without any issue.
So there it is the final fix for the dreaded door lock F dl issue. and any other random issue I too was getting.
I have had this problem as well and followed many of the suggestions posted to date including swapping then ultimately replacing the relays (K1&K2). My success was about a month then back to the same problem of the door not locking. It will try 6 times and if not successful gives the error code F11.
My solution is quite simple and has lasted several years without an error. There are two relays (not the K1 and K2 mentioned in prior threads) that are larger and sit just across from the last connector on the front right of the board. That connector is the main power to the board. If you push a small piece of wood (mine is 3/4" or so maple) between the board mounted connector for the main power and the two relays across from it, it will reestablish the connection. I too had resoldered many of the foil traces without success. Looking at the board in a strong light, you will see there are foil traces sandwiched into the board. The measured voltage is 120 AC so it is easy for the violent shaking to fracture a microcrack into the foil trace. It is difficult to fix the trace directly.
To test the board and see if this is a potential solution, take the cover off the controller board and carefully press the front of the relays towards the back of the machine while the error is occuring. There will be a clicking sound as the relays open and close the door lock. If this is the problem cut or improvise an insulated block that will hold the relay in position and secure the connection. The machine will work gteat and no expensive parts are required.
F11 is:
Serial Communication Error
Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.
Check for:
Check Wire Harness connectors to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
Check the Drive system for any worn or failed components
Check MCU
Check CCU
Check Motor
Check Wire Harness
If all the connections look fine , then its possible the CCU is reading wrong and will need to be changed
please also see this post http://www.fixya.com/support/t272311-r11...
Great info guest! reallyburnsmybiscuits LOL
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In most cases the main control board is the issue. Its the white module located underneath the top its to the rear. If the machines locks up when this problems occurs suspect the control board. The motor and motor control as well as a bad connection between the motor control and the main control can also cause the same error.
Mouser.com sells the relays for about 2.50ea. Buy 2 of them and replace them with new. G5LE-1-VD 12VDC http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=G5LE-1-VD_DC12virtualkey65300000virtualkey653-G5LE-1-VDDC12
I unplugged and replugged most of the larger connectors to the Central Control Unit and the washer has been working through several loads so far. My theory is that the connector contacts get oxidized/dirty and unplugging and replugging cleans them and re-establishes a good electrical contact.
Main Computer Generates F11 Code
The main computer for the washing machine is encased in a white box at the top rear of the machine. It is constantly communicating with other parts of the machine and generates this code when it can't. Frequently, the F11 code is followed by a Fdl door lock code. Therein lies the problem.
It could be from:A malfunction main computer board which cost about $170 as a part.
A bad connector on one of the wiring harnesses connected to the board.Â
A oxidized connector contact on the computer's motherboard.There
A malfunctioning door lock which costs about $60.
...among other things. The list goes on but narrows down.Â
The first thing a service technician will do is replace the door lock. If that doesn't work, he or she will order a computer board and replace that. If that doesn't work, the motor control board will be next.Â
There is a specific diagnostic procedure. It is on the instruction sheet that comes with the machine. This sheet is fastened inside the machine on the bottom right in a clear plastic envelope. To get it:Unplug the machine so you don't electrocute yourself.
Remove the three socket head screws that hold the bottom panel in place.
Remove the panel (it may fall down once the screws are removed).
Cut or tear open the plastic envelope and remove the folded sheet.
This is the sheet that you can use to educate yourself and the one any service tech vitally needs. It also tells you how to mechanically bypass the door lock to open the washer door lock. Removing the bottom panel gives you access to a little ring on the lock mechanism.
More to come in a future posting and how to tell if the main computer board is the culprit.Â
My computer board was the problem. Here is what I did:
Removed the top coverRemoved three screw on the back of the cover's flange
Slid the cover back about 1/2 inch
Lifted the cover off
Isolated the clicking soundBefore I got the error code I heard clicking sound, about 6 times
Clicking came from the white box holding main computer
Tapped on the top of the box with my finger
Machine started
Problem is one of two relays on mother board of computer
Replaced main computerBought main computer from RepairClinic.com
Unplugged main computer in white box on machine
Plugged in replacement
The washing machine has been working through 10 loads. I'm crossing my fingers.
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I had f11 problems up until a year ago.I knew the problem was related improperly soldered connections on the main circuit board,particulary relay connections.I have a friend who is adept at circuit board soldering and had him re solder all the connections on the board.Its been about a year without an incident,but we keep our fingers crossed anyway.we knew about the f series of errors due to the numerous postings on the net.To my knowledge whirlpool still doesnt recognize they had a circuit board problem .It might have been only on certain boards because we know of people with the same machine who have no problems.hope this was helpful
This is an easy one!!!
and one most so called techs miss when servicing motor issues
ah forget the dust what does it matter!!!! LOL:)()(
.....................
dont forget lots of errors can be caused by the motor burshes
lots of people will think na they are ok they dont need replaced
however this is actually the case
BUT what happens is as they wear the carbon from them ends up on the case of the motor and more important the electrical plug and socket on it
this causes a current to flow accross the carbon dust
and can upset the normal operation of the motor and the speed sensor and motor condition anaysis
so you can get a ghost error just caused by carbon dust
when you open the machine simply use a dry paint brush and give the motor a good brush around
to remove the conduction path
this dust can lead the the mains supply in your homes safety sensors tripping
i fix this fault about 20 times a day!!!!
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Tried all the quick fixes, they eventually all failed, pulled the board and sent to www.CircuitBoardMedics.com and has been working flawlessly for 5 years
My F11 is one of the ones that was not fixed by connector work, or pressure on the board, or replacing relays. (I did check all that out). No, mine had no door lock fault, and no intermittent F11 fault. The F11 fault was persistent and could not be bypassed. I eventually found the problem with a tip from another post on mysteryonion's blog that mentioned the motor control unit board having silicone underneath and that area overheating and the components getting fried. I checked there and took it apart, and sure enough, the board was toast. The CCU problems are legit though, and definitely a good place to start, since the relay issue is a fairly well documented one at this point. Be careful about adding solder to any edge connectors. That's a sketchy deal.
Originally I had the door switch error (FDL I think it was), so I replaced the door switch ($58 online). It worked OK for about a month, then I started getting the F11 and FDL errors. After looking at the connections to the door switch, I thought the upper connection seemed loose. So I used a wire tie to hold the connector firmly in place. I haven't had an error message since (about 4 months). Just wish I hadn't wasted the $58.
Thanks rjnolfe (solution #1) for the good advice.
I did as suggested in your solution plus one extra step.
I pulled the CCU circuit board from the Whirlpool Duet washing machine, replaced the two white relays with Mode Electronics 12VDC SPDT 360MW 400 ohm 10Amp coil relays (part number 50-533-1). Each relay cost me $2.50 Canadian plus taxes.
When I removed the plastic covers from the two old white relays, I saw that the contacts on one of the relays was totally burned off. When I re-soldered the two new relays on the CCU circuit board and reinstalled the unit back into the washing machine, the washer worked for only two loads before the dreaded F11 and FDL codes reappeared.
I pulled the CCU circuit board again and followed another suggestion to re-solder the circuit board contact points of all three black relays (there are six legs on each relay to re-solder) . I also added a small thin line of solder on all of the circuit board contact fins (front and back). My Whirlpool Duet has now been working fine (about 30 loads) with no error codes during the last 30 days. In total, I spent about $5.50 for parts, 1 hour of my time to go and get the relays from a local electronic parts store and about three hours of my time to remove the CCU (twice), solder in the new relays, re-solder the contacts of the 3 black relays and add solder to the CCU circuit board fins.
If you don't have a small 15 / 30 watt soldering iron, a solder removal suction tube device and solder, then that will set you back around $30.
But that's better than paying over $500 for a service call and a new CCU to be installed. Hope this information helps you save money instead of paying for a service call or a new washer.
Thanks to kensch888 for solution #13. I ordered a new processor at shopjimmy.com for $168 and installed it in about 30 minutes. No problems after installation. Been running for 1 month with no F11 codes. This is a very easy fix. Lots of wiring to plug back in to the new processor so make notes as you unplug the old processor.
Thanks for the good advice. I did everything you suggested plus added a thin line of solder to the front and back of the CCU circuit board fins where the plastic plugs connect to the board.
We have now done over 30 loads in the Whirlpool Duet with NO error codes.
I replaced the two white relays with Mode Electronics 12VDC SPDT 360MW 400 ohm 10Amp coil relays (part number 50-533-1). Each relay cost me $2.50 Canadian plus taxes.
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I hate my het4, got f11 or fdl a whole bunch of times. will not buy anything kenmore or whirlpool again. i tried vaseline on contacts, worked for a while. almost inclined to go back to old school washers with turning knobs and no electronics. i think my relays are bad, my problem is the clicking doesn't happen. bit the bullet and bought a new board from appliancezone.com for $128.
with the extra board, i'll do the soldering or relay replacement if the replacement board goes bad...hope it doesn't..my neighbor and i bought the same model washer 5 years ago, i had problems and zero problems for her. i actually got he3t, but got a replacement he4t because of multiple failures within first year. he4t failures did not occur until 2-3 years in use. i'd try the vaseline, resoldering first, then board...good luck everyone on the same boat.
I've read about replacing the relays and I did that after swapping them. Didn't work for long. I cleaned the connectors and contacts, but that didn't last. Not counting my time, I guess I spent $40. For $98 I got a new processor module and that fixed it, so far.
I took a chance ordering from Shopjimmy.com because I could only find one review on-line, but the chance really paid off.
I
ordered a processor for my Whirlpool Duet from them on Friday 7-24 for
$98 and it arrived Wednesday 7-29. The best price I found elsewhere on
the net was $149, but the average was $198. Can't beat Shopjimmy's
pricing.
I had called before ordering and the representative was
knowledgeable, polite and she did not pressure me. She verified the
washing machine parts are new.
The CPU was well packed and worked out of the box.
I'm going to order a spare from them as soon as I get some $.
I would recommend shopping at Shopjimmy.
Ken S
Orlando, Fla
Hello fellow f11 sufferers,
If you have time, drop in and view some info I've posted about this issue and note the names of folks that work on the problem.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/mysteryonionpatch/471156850/
The symptoms are pretty specific for the F11 code on the Whirlpool Duet front loaders and clones (Kenmore Elite and KitchenAid):
If the washer starts to fill but the drum NEVER moves, your MCU is bad
If the washer runs through most of a cycle and then gives the F11 before (or during) a rinse or spin cycle, then you have the CCU relay problem.
If you are interested in having me repair your CCU for you, I offer that service on eBay (website coming soon). My username there is "jhagner"
Thanks
My frequent F11 and occasional F11 + FdL errors were fixed following the SamaraiRepairman YouTube video on Troubleshooting and Repairing the F11 Error.... I entered some comments on this YouTube that may help others. In short, I had loose and oxidized connections ar the CCU. In my particular case, I had no relay issues. FYI, I have a 2005 Whirlpool Duet GHW9300. Started getting F11's almost a year ago. Came and went. Lately, I was getting the error perhap 40% of the time. Happened during all cycles and even different cycle phases (e.g wash, rinse, spin). Did happen more frequently with a larger load (I.e. larg unbalance and thus vibration). These situations jive with the occasionally bad connections issue I was experiencing. So far, 14 loads straight and no errors at all...praise God and thanks Samarai Repairman!
Mike
Thank you very much for the info. Yes please resolder all your switches they have micro cracks. I resolder my K6 switch and others on the board and it works! keep my fingers cross! I been working on it for week and ready to purchase new washer tonight.
If soldering is a problem with the two relays, Then you can get 1500 grid sand paper and clean the burned relay that way. It works just as well. Then I followed by 2000 grit paper to smooth it out a little more. Works awesome. NO PROBLEMS so far.
I just want to thank rjnolfe with his solution about the relays that were the problem! His solution was posted Jan. 10, 2009. We did just what he said. This machine was getting ready to get beaten to death with a wood maul. I tried everything I could think of and then some from various experts. Nothing worked until his solution came along. Hats off and many accoloaes to you. I have done about 40 loads and no more f11 codes! Thank you from the bottom of my freshly laundered heart! Phoebe...
I don't know whats wrong with my washer it flashes a f-11 sign but it doesn't spin i didn't get a owners manuel so i don't know whats wrong with it or how to fix it
The F11 or FdL error code is related to circuit problem in the central control unit. This seller (Wahwahtechnology) at eBay offers repair service that wilL definitely fix the problem. It only costs a fraction of a new control unit. very well worth it.
link at ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150433577871&ssPageName=STRK:MESOX:IT
a satisfied customer
I found that just calling a Appliance Technician out to your home to service the problem is the easiest wasy to solve any of your appliance problems,why go through all the headaches when all you have to do is make a quick call to the local appliance company,technician will come right out look at the machine and tell you what is going on.... its that easy and they will warranty all work, i feel its good to always have a appliance repairman number on hand you never know what is going to break the company make these appliances only last 3-5 years than they need to be serviced call try calling a appliance repair company and let them deal with the problem thanks hope you find a great technician as my family and friends have
People don't want to call an "Appliance Technician" to fix a $50 problem for $500, especially when it so obviously is a factory defect.
Ooh, I LOVE comments like this! I live in Pohnpei, Micronesia. There isn't an appliance tech within 3000 miles of this beautiful island. My machine has been down for about 8 months and though I have been receiving some really nice help from a generous man at Appliance Parts via email, I still can't get it going. It's making me fairly crazy. Would I call an appliance tech to come in and fix the problem for me if I could? Dang straight!
It must be nice to have so much money to be able to just "call a tech" any time you want. I can only assume from your comment you're either 1) high, 2) a technician, or 3) you trust the random appliance technician implicitly and believe the problem will be fixed right the first time. I'll leave it to the rest of the forum to decide which one you are, but hear me when I say I'd rather do it myself for $5o rather than have an unscrupulous technician attempt multiple fixes taking me for a ride to the tune of $1,500 +++. Thanks for throwing your oar in the water. Do us all a favor and stick to posting makeup tutorials on YouTube.
And in case anyone missed the obvious, Mr. "wearehiringt" wasn't smart enough to fix it himself which is why it was "easier" for him to call someone else to fix it. Sadly, he is still roaming the streets with all his smarts and will probably procreate creating little people just like him who can't do anything for themselves. Awesome.
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Check Wire Harness connectors to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
Check the Drive system for any worn or failed components
Check MCU
Check CCU
Check Motor
Check Wire Harness
75,484 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Just started to get the error F11 code. Reading on several sites, I can't believe so many people have had this problem and it hasn't been offically addressed by whirlpool!
same problem with the DUET......F 11 code
I have been getting the F 11 error code as well, then it takes multiple tries of pushing the pause/cancel button for it to go away and then I can't open the door. I lloked the code up under the trouble shooting section in my manuel and it just says electrical problem. Otherwise I have no problems -
I am having the same problem. Three weeks ago we had the repairman out because it was just about to go out of warranty. At first he didn't know what it was - he put a new board on it but that didn't work so finally he said it was the door latch mechanism and fixed it. Two days later I start getting the E11 error. Any ideas? I don't want to call him back because he was so hateful - he acted like it was my fault he didn't know what was wrong.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
L
I've had this problem on my washer on/off and it appears on mine to be a connector problem at the door latch which somehow becomes loose. If I open the top of the washer and push the connector back on at the door latch I go for 3-6 months before the problem happens again. My washer worked for 26 months before this problem started to happen.
Jeff
Washer stops and gives the F11 error code. I hit the PAUSE/CANCEL button twice and held in the HOLD TO START button. The washer restarts from the beginning and usually continues to work. One time I couldn't open the door. I unplugged and replugged the power cord and the door unlocked.Â
I have called Whirlpool repair service but since it's an electrical problem, I'm concerned that the repair man won't know any more than I do. I also email them to get a wiring diagram and a definition of what F11 means.Â
I am having the same F11 and/or F dL problem with the machine. Often my clothes are stuck in the machine even if I unplug the machine. The door stays locked and after numerous attempts I can eventually get the machine to start the cycle over and hope it completes a cycle. We have had the machine for 36 months and the extended warranty just ran out 15 days ago. With so many complaints on the same issue, you would think Whirlpool would have done something by now??
M
Cincinnati, Ohio
my washer may work 2 or 3 loads ok,then i may fight to get one load finished.i have to let the machine sit for a while.like it needs to cool down or something.then it may finish the load.I was told by a service tech.to check that the screen in the machine where the cold water line connects,to make sure it is not plugged.i took the screen out completely.still trbl.called service tech.and the only thing he said was he found a loose wire.$75.00.he said if this did not work,he would have to replace wiring harness.My thoughts are it has to be a bad part.but not sure what it may be.any suggestions let me know.I can change these parts rather than paying the 70.00per service call to have the pro change another part.
Well the F11 code is an expensive fix....140.17 for labor 274.69 for the new electronic board that needed to be replaced. so the grand total is 414.86. My HE4T is one year and one month old to the day...If this is an on going problem...I think Whirpool needs to get off their butts and do a recall on this washer and every model that is having the same problem...I paid 1300.00 for what.. I should have gotten the LG
F 11 code starts to wash then shuts off and starts beeping and F 11 appears in the time remaining window
F 11 and F dL error codes, sometimes door won't lock, sometimes it locks and won't unlock. Also, will start cycle and stop midway with error code F 11 flashing. From what I've read, I need to get to control panel. Can someone give me instructions on how to get to control panel. Thanks!
I also have the same problem with the F-11 code. I contacted Whirlpool with my complaint, but I am also out of warranty by 10 months. I was offered 10% off the purchase of a new Whirlpool product. I said you must be out of your mind to think I would ever buy a Whirlpool product again. I am in the retail automotive business and I see alot of people every day, guess what I will tell every one of them.
I have the SAME ANNOYING problem. I get F 11 and F dL error codes, sometimes door won't lock, sometimes it
locks and won't unlock. Also, will start cycle and stop midway with
error code F 11 flashing. I can always tell if it isn't going to work (you hear a clicking sound when the lock tries to engage at the beginning of a cycle). If I unplug and do a dance of frustration it will work again.... sometimes right away... sometimes a day or two later.
I have a F11 error and then goes to a F DL error
I have the exact same problem. My washer stops mid-cycle, usually during the drain or rinse cycle; today it stopped during the wash cycle. I have had a repairman out twice to work on it. The first time he replaced the door latch. The second time, he just worked on it and then said it should be fine now. The same day it locked up again.
AFTER CLOSING DOOR DOES NOT CLICK ON GIVES THE F 11 CODE
Same issue- F11 code then door lock error. Does anyone know where the MCU is located and how I would access i?
Thanks
unplugged power cordrrep
Yes same error... at the end of the cycle the washer will beep with F-11 error showing... we just turn it off then on to the spin/rinse cycle and there you go... put we'd like to resolve this error.
I am going crazy with this F11 code and the service tech said there's nothing he can tell wrong with electronic components. And I can't get any help out of the store I purchased it. I have had it about 3.5 years and it has been doing this for last year. It takes me a whole day to wash 1 load and I have 4 kids so there is way more than 1 load a day of laundry.
i start the washer it runs some water. It don't spin or anything. After a few sec that it runs the washer stops an says F 11 i have looked @ wires everything appears fine. I have had it 3 years i don't see why it would be the ccu. can u help me in anyway.
say F11 error code
F11 problem here too. I'm very disapointed that I have to get out the mother board to fix the problem. Even more disappointed that Whirlpool hasn't found or fixed my problem themselves.
Yup. Â F 11. Â Will not unlock the door and will not complete the cycle. Â Really wishing I'd kept my old yellow Maytags!
Just contacted Whirlpool's Consumer Help Line to see if Whirlpool is logging the number of complaints about the F11 error code and the Whirlpool Duet Washer. Â I wondered if they would consider a recall (similar to the one just issued by Bosch for their dishwashers ) and repair all faulty Whirlpool washers with this problem. Â The answer? Â No. Â In fact, I was told the company did not recognize any problem with the washers and it would not matter how many consumers phoned in to complain! Â She could however, help me find a repair company that would come to my home to fix the problem. I wonder how many calls would have to be made to Whirlpool's Consumer Help Line before the company would begin to recognize a problem? Â
Same as everyone else...F11...The washer is about 3 years old which seems to be the time that this problem occurs. Whirlpool should start keeping track. In this economy, they wouldn't be the first big company to go down because of lack of response to customer complaints/needs.
In the middle of most loads the machine stops and flashes F11. Then the fun begins. If you wait a while the machine will restart and finish the load. If you don't wait long enough the machine will F11 again. If you wait to long the settings clear and it is a though the machine was never on and we end up with wet soapy clothes.
I've been having this same issue. Repeated F11/FdL codes. I have removed the CCU board, resoldered many of the spots. First time the washer worked for about 7 weeks before going into F11/FdL spasms.
Right now, I am getting the failed consistently either at the end of the wash cycle or the very end of the spin cycle.
I did get a new code today! F 0 that's right, not F10 as I know the lights work, it's F0 which isn't even in the service guide. At least I haven't seen it.
I've just reseated the door lock wires. Lets see what that does. If not, then I'm going to do rjnolfe's method of removing the relays.
Has anyone found a source to purchase new relays?? (k2, k4)
Thanks
Q
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