Question about Bosch WFMC 3200 Front Load Washer

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Electrical/rubber odor when load is complete

After my last load was complete there was an electrical/rubber odor. It was also making an unusual sound, sort of clunking. I checked the drain filter and it had some soap scum build up but not an object. I don\'t want the machine to fail during a cycle and am hoping to avoid a bigger problem

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In addition to the above, does the drum spin freely with no load in it? maybe a sock of small item may be jammed into the drum cavity caused by overloading the machine. If there is, it will be hard to remove - try taking the heater out. Sometimes you can see the item by looking through the holes in the wash drum with a torch... sometimes! something like this might make the belt slip as mentioned above.

Or is the door seal rubbing on the wash drum front edge? the friction of running at spin speed would cause a horrible burning rubber smell, (but this is not common in Bosch machines) - check for burnt grey rubber deposits on the front lip of the drum. This might be caused by a tub bearing collapse, allowing the drum to drop onto the seal.

Posted on Feb 03, 2018

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Not many machines are belt driven these days, but the symptoms are those of a slipping belt, or friction against a failed rubber mount.

To find out more you will need to remove the case (or enough of it to see what happens while it is working.

Be on the lookout for some rubbery thing (either a part, or something from a previous load) jammed somewhere where the rotating drum scrapes it.

A burning rubber smell is different to a burning motor windings or transformer smell but maybe only to afficionados. Could be a winding failure on the motor too.

Unplug, un-case and plunge your schnozz into the works seeking the odiferous source. Sounds like I am kidding, but I am not - really try it. You may need to dry run it for a while to elicit the smell before unplugging etc.

Please post how you go, and what it eventually turns out to be.

Posted on Feb 03, 2018

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Anonymous

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SOURCE: bosch frontload washer will not drain

Hello Mamma5, It sounds like the drain pump is either seized or jammed. The drain pump has an anti jam device in it. Since you have figured out how to get into the drain pump, try turning the inpeller in the back. It will be a little hard to turn as the magnets in the motor will fight you on this. Look close in case there is anykind of thread wrapped around the inpeller. If so, then you can free the pump. If you cannot free it to run, advise the repairman what you found so he can bring a drain pump with him.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 23, 2008

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Karl Wright

  • 1653 Answers

SOURCE: I have a dirty rubber inner Bosch Maxx 1200 Front Loading Washing

First clean around the rubber with some mould and mildew cleaner for bathrooms - available from most supermarkets.

This is a natural accumulation of waste detergent, fabric softener, fibres and dirt build up that is being attacked by bacteria and eventually decomposes into a sludge / goo and then eventually starts smelling bad as well.

To keep the machine clean of waste build up and to keep any bad odours away:

1. Remove all items from the washer.
2. Open the dispenser drawer and 2/3 cup (160 mL) of liquid chlorine bleach to the bleach compartment. DO NOT use more than 2/3 cup (160mL) of bleach per cycle as this will lead to product damage.
3. Close the washer door and dispenser drawer.
4. Select the Clean Washer cycle or a full wash cotton 104 F wash (40 C). DO NOT use any higher temperature as this will cause unnecessary fumes
5. Press Start and allow cycle to complete.
6. After the cycle is complete, leave the door open slightly to allow ventilation and drying of the washer interior.
7. Repeat the cleaning procedure monthly

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

Anonymous

  • 267 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch WFF1800 - not spinning

HI,

move the kicking plate on the front-bottom of the machine. You will see o circular lid there, turn it on anti-clockvise to open. All of the water blocked will come from there, be careful. Look carefully that there are some objects blocking the water draining. Then turn on the machine on draining programme, the plastic rotor should turn fastly when the machine is on. If it is not running, change the pump motor. If it is running, but machine is not draining again you can understand that there is an objeck stuck on the hose between drum and pump motor. Lay down the machine on its rear facade, you will see a large and black hose between drum and pump motor. When you remove it, you will see that there is something that blocks water running.

thank you for using fixya,rate my answer,
vijay

Posted on Oct 04, 2009

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The back of the applience will need to come off and cleaned out.How you accomplise this is up to you!!. If you have some one who is very handy at this sort of thing then grt.otherwise leave it to a proffesional. Obviosly compressed air gun is the way to do it.

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Whenever you experience an unusual smell coming from anything electrical, always turn it off and/or disconnect it from any power source until you learn more about the problem. A fire can make make any problematic device seem suddenly unimportant.


10_24_2012_3_24_03_pm.jpg

An extremely common component in nearly any electronic device is a capacitor. The sizes vary from baby-tooth-sized to bowling-ball-sized found in the power box for most photography studios. The hissing sound is likely caused by one of these. The noisy capacitor may be going bad or another component or an electrical short may be causing it to get too much power. I've attached a video of what happens when capacitors get too much power.


An electrical short could also be causing both symptoms. If the smell is similar to burning organic matter, you likely have an insect (a crispy critter) that can be removed to remedy your problem. However, an electrical burn usually releases gases from burning rubber or plastic and has a distinctly different type of odor. If that's the smell and you are handy with a soldering iron, remove the cover to your monitor and look for signs of burning or overheating. Otherwise, the task should be left to an electronics shop for repair.

If this information was helpful, please click the thumbs-up button below.

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When its in use there is a burning odor


If it is a rubber smell, the belt is slipping and should be repalced. If the smell is a sharp electrical burning odor, the motor brushes are sparking and the motor may be damaged.

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My GE Front load washer (WBVH6240) has an odor that smells like mildew in it. If the is left closed the odor is really bad. Do you know how to fix this or what is comes from?


run a empty cycle with bleach on whites/ sanitize. clean boot (rubber gasket at door) with bleach or other cleaner inside especially at bottom, make sure 3 holes at bottom are clear.
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For maintenance, you should wipe excess water from boot after last load, and check lower drain holes. Once a month wipe boot with windex or other. and run cleaner cycle (empty) newer machines have a special clean washer cycle. (6240 doesnt).
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True cooler made a pop sound and was a bad odor thereafter


Sounds like the compressor may be going off on overload. The start parts for the compressor may need replacement. Tell me the numbers on the compressor and I can come up with a universal replacement part! ;)

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http://www.hannabery.com/faq14.shtml

"Odor problems can be as serious as a gas leak or as simple as a dirty air filter. But remember, a good mechanic doesn't just use his hands. He uses his ears and nose. Unusual odors could indicate a serious problem and should not be ignored. 

We will go through each of the five categories and list the possible causes and things to check.


1. Electrical odor - Electrical odors are usually caused by parts overheating. Indoor blower motors are a common example. If there is a mechanical failure such as the bearings seizing up, the motor over-heats and the insulation on the wires and the motor windings themselves start to melt, causing the odor. 
Sometimes loose electrical connections cause wires or plastic relays to overheat causing electrical odors. 

It is possible for a very dirty air filter to cause the odor. If the airflow is restricted enough, it could cause electric resistance heaters to overheat, even burn-out. 

If you smell an electrical odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut off equipment at the breaker if possible and call for service. 


2. Burning odor - This is similar to an electrical odor only worse. It is also sometimes accompanied by smoke. Once again, this can be caused by parts or wiring burning-up. 

It can also be debri such as plastic getting into the ductwork and melting on the electric resistance heaters or heat exchanger. 

If you smell a burning odor, check your air filter. If it is not blocked, shut off equipment at the breaker if possible and call for service.



3. Gas odor - First of all, if you really smell gas and suspect a gas leak, you should open the windows, get out of the house, then call the gas company. 

Now excluding that "worse-case" scenario, if you notice an odor that smells like gas and it seems to be coming out of the supply vents, it usually isn't gas. Sometimes dust that settles on the heat exchanger during the summer months burns off at the beginning of each heating season and it smell just like gas. 

If the odor doesn't seem to be coming from the vents, try to pinpoint where the smell is coming from. Use your nose. If it is gas, it usually would be from a leak in a pipe fitting or at the equipment itself. 

Gas odor is the one that causes the most fear. People think of gas explosions or carbon-monoxide poisoning. Well, gas explosions are very rare and carbon-monoxide for the most part is odorless. 

Having said that though, don't take a gas odor lightly. If you can't locate the source of the odor and you are worried you have a gas leak, remember, open the windows, get out of the house, then call the gas company. 


4. Oil odor - Oil odors are usually caused by one of two things. An oil leak/drip or an oil burner that is not working properly. 

The oil leak is usually easy to spot. Just look for oil. Check the burner itself, the oil tank, filter and oil line. Sometimes it is just a matter of tightening a fitting. If there are no signs of an oil leak then it is most likely a burner problem. 

This can be caused by many things, too many to list. It could be a minor adjustment to the burner to a faulty or blocked chimney. From a bad fuel pump to a plugged oil nozzle. Listen for any unusual rumbling or banging sounds or smoke or soot while the burner is running. If you notice any of these things and/or you have an oil odor, you should call for service immediately. 

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5. Damp and musty odor - This is more common in the air conditioning mode. Sometimes attic units or very damp basements have this problem. Check for air leaks in the return ducts. Check for water damage to the ducts or air handler itself. Possibly consider having your ducts cleaned. Run a dehumidifier and see if the odor goes away. 

But this odor problem is almost never due to a problem with your equipment. 

 


Final Tips:

Keep in mind that almost all heating systems cause an odor the first time they are fired-up. And the first few times at the beginning of each heating season. Brand new furnaces are coated with oil to keep the heat exchangers from rusting. This burns off, creating a bad odor - even smoke. But it usually only lasts for about 20 minutes. Opening the windows usually solves the problem. And the first few times the backup heat on a heat pump kicks on, it smells like an electrical smell. This might last for a few days but isn't that bad. If you are worried, call for service. 

Remember to check for a clean air filter and that your vents are opened. Check to see if the fan is working which mean your motor hasn't burned-up. 

Check for air leaks in damp areas, oil stains or rumbling sounds, strong gas odors - these all indicate problems. Do not ignore them. 

Hope this helps, remember - these are just rough guidelines and not all possible situations are covered."

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1 Answer

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