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Weights slip One plate will not lock, it holds temporarily and then drops off when moved vigorously. I tied tightening the three qtr inch nuts on outside. Also, I switched handles and it appears to be just one handle, the other works on both sides.

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Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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richroth

Richard Roth

  • 9472 Answers

SOURCE: Selector knob spins, no clicks,

1. Check to assure that the ******** handle is fully depressed into the ******** base. If not fully depressed, the locking mechanism will not be released and may be keeping the adjustment knobs from rotating. 2. Check to see if any weight plates have been put into the base assembly backwards with the "support ******" facing the grip of the ******** handle. All weight plates must have the selection ****** facing away from the grip of the ******** handle. 3. Check to see if there is any dirt, debris or other obstruction in the ******** base. You may need to remove the weight plates from the base to accomplish this check. Remember to put each weight plate back in its appropriate location with the selection ****** facing away from the ******** grip.

Posted on Aug 16, 2011

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1 Answer

Replace clutch cable


In the middle of the clutch cable under a rubber boot is the adjustment for the cable. Slide this down to access the adjuster. This may take a little effort to do. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to hold the adjuster and a 9/16 to loosen the lock nut. Turn the lock nut and adjuster all the way to the top. Remove the retaining ring on the underside of hand control and remove pin. Remove clutch lever. Slide out the pin holding the clutch cable in place. Remove derby cover, the large round cover where the cable enters buy removing the four hex screws. Remove spring with attached hex lock plate. Use a flat head screw driver to turn adjusting screw clockwise to release ramp and coupling mechanism. it should move forward and make the cable slack enough to remove it. Unscrew nut from adjusting screw, remove the cable end from small slotted end of coupler. Unscrew the cable from primary cover.

Screw the new cable in to the cover, reconnect cable to the coupler. Leave derby cover off and re-install everything, except spring and hex plate. Turn the clutch adjusting screw counter-clockwise until resistance is felt, then back-off 1/4 turn. Re-install spring and hex plate, you may have to wiggle the hex nut a bit to get everything to line up. Replace the derby cover. Turn adjuster on the cable down until there is about 1/16 free play at clutch handle. Tighten the adjuster lock nut. Slide the protective boot back over the cable adjuster. I recommend using zip ties to seal the boot. Place a zip tie at the bottom of the boot first. Then using some WD-40, insert the straw a good bit in to the top of the boot. Spray slowly until foam starts coming out the top. Seal the top of the boot with a zip tie. This will keep the adjuster from rusting. That's it your done.

Feb 15, 2013 | 2001 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883...

2 Answers

How do you change the oil in the rear axile of a 4wheel drive 2007 tahoe


Hi, the axle has a drain plug at the bottom, removing this plug allows all old fluid to empty, put the plug back in, and tighten. fill back up with 2-3 qts of 75 synthetic weigt oil. Good luck...Coop

Dec 12, 2010 | 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

How do I replace just the outer tie rod(passenger side) of a 2000 plymouth neon? I have the tie rod, what equipment will I need?


you can do the whole job with a large crescent wrench, hammer, and pliers. Loosen the lock nut but only loosen, remove the cotter pin (if present) and joint nut. Hit joint with hammer to separate from steering knuckle. unscrew tie rod end. Compare length to new end. You will want to keep the length from the nut to the center of the hub arm attach the same or you will need an alignment. Screw the new end on and adjust to the original length. Slip back into hub, replace and tighten net, repace cotter pin. Tighten lock nut and get an alignment if you aren't sure about length. OK? Any questions, let me know.

Oct 08, 2010 | 2000 Plymouth Neon

1 Answer

How to replace tie rods and bushings in a 1997 dodge caravan


I recommend you get a Haynes or Chilton repair manual for most auto parts stores ($20-$30). But to save you some money:
Tie Rods:
1. Loosen the lug nuts.
2. Raise front of vehicle.
3, Support it with jack stands.
4. Chock/Block the rear tires.
5. Set the parking brake.
6. Remove the front tire.
7. Mark the nut shaped end of the tie rod and the jam nut with a straight line on top.
8. Using two wrenches - one on the tie rod (nut shaped) end and the other on the jam nut,..loosen SLIGHTLY the jam nut (clockwise turn). While loosening the jam nut - make sure you count the number of turns 1/4, 1/2, 1, 2 etc...
9. Using 11/32 Socket remove the tie-rod end to steering knuckle nut.
10. Use a tie rod end separator (fork) or ball joint separator (jaws) and separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
11. Before turning the tire rod off the steering arm: Count the number of turns coming off the arm using the mark you put on the tie rod nut shaped end.
Notice on the final turn off the arm what the mark position is. This wil be the position you start when screwing the new tie rod on.
12. Place the jam nut back just short of it's original position.
13. Screw the new tie rod back starting with that start position and with the same number of turns.
14. Connect the tie rod and steering knuckle.
15. Tighten the tie rod to steering knuckle nut to 40 ft-lbs.
16. The tie rod end and jam nut should then be tightened. They should be close anyway within a 1/8 turn.
17. Install lug nuts.
18. Lower Van.
19. Tighten lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Using the everyother nut until all are tightened process.
20. Wheel alignment? Test drive Van and have checked at an alignment shop.

The Stabilizer Bar Bushings:
Steps 1. thru Step 6 above. Remove both tires.
7. Remove bolts (should be 10 of them) attaching the cradle plate to the bottom of the front suspension cradle.
8. Remove the cradle plate.
9. Remove the stablizer bar links from the stabilzer bar. Confused? There is a straight bar coming from the Strut down to the sway (stabilizer) bar (which goes from one side of the Van to the other). Remove this nut.
10. Remove the stabilizer (sway) bar bushing retainers (one on each side) from the front suspension cradle.
11. Be careful this bar is heavy and will fall suddenly and may hit you on the head!!
12. Remove the bar and bushings as a unit (together).
13. Install the new bushings with the slits facing the rear of the Van and the square corners facing the ground.
14. Make sure you clean the areas on the bar where the bushings are positioned.
15. Use lubricant (non-petroleum based, like vegetable oil) to easy re-assembly.
16. Re-assembly is pretty much the reverse.
Hints:
a. Align the stabilizer bar in position using the depressions in the cradle.
b. Do not tighten all-the-way the bushing retainers until later.
c. Tighten stabilizer bar to link stabilzer (sway) bar to 65 ft-lbs.
d. Tighten bushing retainer nuts to 50 ft-lbs.
e. Tighten the cradle plate bolts:
M14 at 123 ft-lbs
M12 at 80 ft-lbs.

Let mne know if this worked for you. Good Luck!!
Any other questions? Drop me a line on fixya.com!


Nov 21, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

How do I remove and replace a starter from a 1993 Toyota Previa? I am told it's rather difficult and may include removing something from the automatic transmission.


Removal & Installation
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. If equipped with 4WD, remove the front drive shaft.
  4. Remove the nut and disconnect the starter wire.
  5. Disconnect the starter connector.
  6. Remove the bolt holding the starter stay to the upper stiffener plate.
  7. If equipped with 2WD, remove the starter by removing the nut and three bolts.
  8. If equipped with 4WD, remove the starter by removing the nut, four bolts, and the center bracket.
To install:
  1. If equipped with 4WD, install the starter, the center support bracket, nut, and the four bolts.
  2. If equipped with 2WD, install the starter, nut and three bolts.
  3. Install the bolt to hold the starter stay to the upper stiffener plate. Tighten the bolt to 43 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
  4. Install the starter connector.
  5. Connect the starter wire with the nut. Tighten the nut to 78 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
  6. If equipped with 4WD, install the front drive shaft.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.
Good luck and this should take about 2 1/5 hours from start to finish and if you like, use lock tight medium strength to make sure the bolts don't go lose on you.

Nov 04, 2009 | 1991 Toyota Previa

1 Answer

How to install tie rods on a 1993 del sol


Instructions Things You'll Need:
  • Lug nut wrench
  • Jack
  • Jack stands
  • Wrench or pliers
  • Tie rod puller
  • Marker or paint
  • Pen and paper
  • Anti-seize compound
  • Torque wrench
    Remove the Tie Rod End
  1. Step 1 Purchase tie rod ends that are specific to your Honda model and year, for tie rod ends vary from model year to model year. The tie rod ends often come with nuts and cotter pins (glorified bobby pins).
  2. Step 2 Loosen the lug nuts on the front tires, but don't remove them. Jack up your vehicle, then support it securely on jack stands. Remove the tires.
  3. Step 3 Use a wrench or piers to loosen the outer tie rod's locking nut, but do so by only 1/8th of a turn. Mark the tie rod end's position on the threaded portion of the tie rod with paint or a marker.
  4. Step 4 Take out the cotter pin or key and use a wrench or pliers to loosen and remove the castellated nut from the outer tie rod end's spindle.
  5. Step 5 Separate the tie rod and the steering knuckle with a tie rod puller.
  6. Step 6 Grasp the tie rod with a wrench while you screw off the tie rod end. Make sure you keep track of the number of turns it takes to remove it, and write that number down. It'll help you when you install the replacement tie rod end.
    Replace the Tie Rod End
  7. Step 1 Put a coat of anti-seize compound on the threaded portion of the tie rod end, and screw on the lock nut for the tie rod end.
  8. Step 2 Screw on the tie rod end, making sure you do it in the same number of turns as it took to remove the original tie rod end (see Section One, Step 6).
  9. Step 3 Slip the tapered end of the tie rod end into the steering knuckle and tighten the castellated nut to 29 to 35 foot pounds. If your tie rod end doesn't come with a castellated nut, tighten that nut to 32 foot pounds.
  10. Step 4 Install the new cotter pin and tighten the tie rod end's lock nut. Repeat Sections 1 and 2 for the other tie rod end.
  11. Step 5 Reinstall the tires, tighten the lug nuts and get the Honda aligned.

Oct 28, 2009 | 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol

2 Answers

I have a poulan pro 35cc chainsaw. The coil spring was not doing its job. Now I can't get it back in.


Coil it up real tight. Try putting mini cable ties on to hold it together while you slip it into the housing then snip them off carefully with side cutters. It can be tricky. I use ties for lawnmowers, outboards and all small engines.

Hope this helps.
Rob

Sep 21, 2009 | Poulan Pro Chain Saw 46cc 20"

1 Answer

Power steering going bad,need info about rackard pinion


you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.

It's a pretty big job for a novice.

here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar

Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Tool Number Description T94T-6000-AH Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T57L-500-B Bench Mounted Holding Fixture
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  1. Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
  1. Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
  1. Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
  1. Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
  1. Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
  1. Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
  1. Position drain pan under steering gear.
  1. Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
  1. Partially raise vehicle.
  1. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
  1. Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
  1. Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
  1. Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
  1. Raise vehicle.
  1. Remove drain pan.
  1. Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
  1. Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
  1. Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
  1. Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
  1. Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
  1. Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
  1. Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
  1. Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
  1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
Installation
  1. Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
  1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
  1. Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
  1. Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
  1. Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
  1. Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
  1. Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
  1. Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
  1. Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
  1. Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
  1. Remove flex tube holder.
  1. Partially lower vehicle.
  1. Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
  1. Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
  1. Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
  1. Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
  1. Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
  1. Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
  1. Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
  1. Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
  1. Install steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 41-51 Nm (30-38 lb-ft). Position steering column boot over steering rack.
  1. Fill and purge system.
  1. Check operation.
  1. Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .

Aug 05, 2009 | 1994 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Remove/replace shock absorber assembly 900s 1995 saab


  1. Slightly loosen hub center nut when all four wheels are on ground.
  2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove five wheel bolts and wheel.
  3. Remove hub center nut, then the wheel sensor,
  4. Press back brake piston using slip-joint pliers,
  5. Remove caliper from steering swivel member, then suspend in wheel housing with cable tie.
  6. Remove brake disc and back plate, then slightly loosen tie rod end nut.
  7. Press out tie rod end nut using puller tool or equivalent.
  8. Remove nut and tie rod end bolt, then the anti-roll bar to swinging arm nut.
  9. Remove outer ball joint nut.
  10. Press ball joint out of steering swivel member using puller tool or equivalent, installed on spring link.
  11. Remove nut and discard. This self-locking nut must not be reused.
  12. Remove three upper mounting nuts for MacPherson strut, then the strut.
  13. Clamp MacPherson strut in vice.
  14. Compress spring using spring compressor or equivalents.
  15. Hold piston rod and remove nut using MacPherson strut socket tool 89 96 662, or equivalent. This is a self-locking nut and must not be reused.
  16. Remove mounting and top spring seat, then the coil spring, gaiter and compression stop.
  17. Unscrew damper using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent, then remove damper from strut.
  18. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
    1. Screw damper in place using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent.
    2. Lower end of coil spring should abut against stop in bottom of spring cup.
    3. Position MacPherson strut on vehicle and install three retaining nuts on top mounting. Tighten nuts alternately, according to specifications.
    4. Always use new hub center nut with self-locking threads.

Jun 04, 2009 | 1995 Saab 900

1 Answer

I need step by step instructions to replace front struts.


1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
INSTALLATION
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.

Hope this helps. Good luck !

Mar 14, 2009 | 1992 Ford Taurus

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