Amana ACD106R Wall/Window Air Conditioner Logo
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Central air condtioner making beeping noise!

When i turn on the central air condition, it starts making loud beeping noise that sounds like door buzzer every couple minutes! the noises go away once i turn off the ac. does anyone know what the problem is? thanks!!

  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    is this noise indoor or outdoor, and like a BEEP BEEP or just a similiar sound?

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1 Answer

Anonymous

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  • Expert 158 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 04, 2009
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Joined: May 05, 2009
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It means it has a fault. try resetting unit by switching circuit breaker off and on it might go away

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 518 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 02, 2008

SOURCE: water keeps leaking from central

It's supposed to do that. There should be a drain line on it to direct the water to drain. That line may be plugged up, you'll have to check it out.

Geno

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Anonymous

  • 116 Answers
  • Posted on May 09, 2009

SOURCE: My central heating and air-conditioning unit completely stopped working - the model# is e2eb-015hb

manually bump the contactor whare the main power comes in with a insulated object isf unit starts then check for call from stat on stat wire from common to red 24v ac transformer good or see if indoor fan comes on next check call from stat common to yellow 24 v then look for low psi switch to see if it has it locked out could be low on gas

bobicehouse

Robert Moller

  • 1524 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 23, 2009

SOURCE: Cost to replace a home central AC compressor in MA

With the phase out of R22, it is suggested to replace the system with a more energy efficent R410A system.

Anonymous

  • 30 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 31, 2009

SOURCE: Can somebody help,why is my Central AC blows

Most heat pumps have an auxillary heat. Many are electric auxillary heat with a heat strip in the air handler. A common malfunction is for the electric auxillary heat to operate when the heat pump is set on cool. To confirm this, locate the conductor that runs from the heat sequencer to the connection on the heat strip. You will see this on the top section of the air handler. Use the clamp on part of the amp meter over that wire. If the thermostat is set on cool and the heat strip is drawing amps, it means the heat is coming on while the heat pump is set on cool. There is usually one or two causes for this, either the sequencer is bad or there is low voltage wires usually behind the thermostat or in the air handler closet that are touching that shouldn't be touching.

If this is not the case, if its not a problem of where the heat is coming on with the air conditioner, it could be a case of the reversing valve malfunctioning. The way a heat pump works is it reverses the flow of the refridgerant. For instance, many heat pumps the reversing valve is activated in cool. That would mean that there is a low voltage circuit that activates the reversing valve when the heat pump is in cool. I'm not sure what model/brand your heat pump is, Goodman and Janitrol for instance, the heat pump reversing valve is activated in cool. In any case, if the reversing valve is not operating properly, when the air conditioning is set to cool it will actually be heating. Or you could set it to heat and it may actually be cooling instead of heating. Please check these two items first and if you have any further questions, please let me know. Especially if you know of any additional problems like the evaporater is icing up or if the air handler fan is not operating when it should.

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Dennis Boxerman

  • 1306 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 20, 2009

SOURCE: schematic diagram of central air conditioning

Several types out there. 99% of them use the same basic wiring.
Red is power from transformer to t'stat. Sometime there is a wire for common from transformer to t'stat too, but not always.
While is for heat. Green is for fan. Yellow is for cooling.
These 4 to 5 wires go on the terminals that are maked with letters: C=common, RH/RC is for power, W=heat, Y=cooling, G=fan.

In most cases, 2 wires from the indoor unit will go to the outdoor unit to power it for cooling. Usually connected to the yellow wired, Y terminal and common or grounded to the unit if the transformer is done in the same fashion.

If you have a heat pump, totally different animal and different wiring too.

Hope this helps you. Good Luck.

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Central Air Conditioning or Window Air Conditioner

Many people look into installing air conditioning in their home every year. There are many options to consider when it comes time to make that decision. To help make that decision more clear, I will explore some of the positives and negatives of the two major options. Ductless Split A/C type units lately are also becoming more of a popular option. I will do another “Tips and Tricks” on that option. To include that in this one would just be more confusing. So for now we will just look at window air conditioners and central air conditioning.

Central air conditioning is usually the best way to go if you already have a central hot air heating system already installed in your house or building. The advantage that you have is that you already have the air handler or blower part already installed. The ductwork for the distribution of the air is also all ready in place. The ductwork may need some modification to make it work well for air conditioning, but the major part of it should be adequate. To use the existing furnace and ductwork an A/C coil will need to be installed at the furnace. An outdoor condenser unit will be installed outside and copper tubing will be used to connect the coil to the outdoor unit. Some electrical wiring will need to be done to power the outdoor unit. Low voltage wiring will also be needed to hookup the thermostat, the furnace, and the outdoor unit together so that they can talk to each other. Basically the thermostat will just tell the furnace to run the blower on high speed and the outdoor condenser to start up.
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Window air conditioners are security risks. If a thief wants to get into your house, the thin sheet metal box that holds the unit in the window can easily be pulled apart to get in through the window. I have seen many units that are not even screwed fast. If the window air conditioner is just there, balancing in the window frame, it becomes very inviting for a unexpected guest. The window air conditioner is also very inefficient. These units use more power per BTU of cooling than any other type of air conditioner. If you are a light sleeper, than chances are you will not want one of these window shakers. Window air conditioners are one of the loudest forms of air conditioning.

The fan for these units is very loud when running. Then add the noise of the compressor and you have enough decibels to keep many people wide awake all night long. If you choose to use a window air conditioner, than you should also look for a place that it can be secured and placed in a room that you will not be sleeping in.


As you can tell by now, I am not a big fan of window air conditioners. They do have a place for some people. However, you do need to be aware of the problems that you may encounter with them. The low initial cost can be offset by the fact that they typically do not last as long as a central air conditioner.

Central air conditioning will last much longer, be quieter during operation, be more efficient, be more secure, but the initial cost will be higher. How much depends on each situation. When considering your options for air conditioning installation you need to get prices for everything and then decide what type of unit will work the best for you.


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3850183-condenser_coil_cleaning_condenser_coil

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3636751-air_conditioner_seer_seasonal_energy

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3636709-size_air_conditioner_need

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3633369-portable_air_conditioning_great_portable

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3623253-window_air_conditioners_clean_every_year
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