When running a cycle, the washer will get to the spin cycle then just stop. You can hear the motor start then stop and then you can hear a brief hum. This will go on and on. It will not move past this point and the timer counter does not change. The lid stays locked and does not unlock even if unit is turned off/on or unplugged/ plugged back in. The only way to unlock is to manually move the lock out of position and open the lid. Also the water is not drained. I have removed the clothes and tried restarting with different cycles. No matter the cycle, once it gets to the spin portion, it just stays there. Found that when washer is in the early part of the cycle, I can stop and start the unit and the lock disengages (as it should) when the cycle is stopped.
No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.
Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically.
Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Or try the hand test:
If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.
- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.
LID SWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block
If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.
Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
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SOURCE: can't get washer to finish spin cycle
I have the same problem they can not fix it so dont waste your money on a repair guy they just run it through a dianostic test and tell you that you are no using the machine properly
SOURCE: Maytag Washer Getting stuckon wash cycle
the possibility of it being the timer is most likely..as the rest of the cycles remain ok.. if you require a timer,you can get one here at this link..(click the link here) http://www.easyapplianceparts.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=HAV4657EWW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=1
please be aware that you will need the machine serial number in order for them to issue you with the correct part/s you will require.. parts are cross referenced with the serial number.
these diagrams will also enlarge in order for you to maintain your machine by yourself at little but the cost of the parts required... but please DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY REPAIR YOURSELF if you think you may not have the technical know how to follow these technical drawings..hope this helps
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Top Load FAV6800AWW -- tub/motor will not spin
Hey Cameron,
I saw you post today on another forum and did not have time to put my thoughts down before work. I agree not a clutch issue I had to :), you would be so lucky. I own the machine and can’t offer any more troubleshooting then what you have done, good job of that. Unfortunately the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM doesn’t have a whole lot of support for troubleshooting beyond what you have done for this issue. I found more info from the MAH3000 manual on the technical operation of the motor controller (slightly different controller). Both machines use the same troubleshooting paths. Remove JP4 which is;
P1 Motor Control common
P2 Torque (to Motor Controller) see page 1-11 MAH3000
P3 Motor Control Tach (to control board input)
My WAG is replace the Motor Controller 1st, then Control board 2nd and a possible tach issue related to the motor. That’s enough WAGing,…. but with troubleshooting not a complete WAG :).
Take a look at pages 2-5 thru 2-11, I keyed in on page 2-11 in the MAH3000, it may give you some additional insight, I know we are dealing with different machine designs but I think the designs are close regarding motor controller, the motor and what the Control Board is doing and looking for with input from the Motor Controller. I wish the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW SM gave this kind of detail for troubleshooting. There is a nice little troubleshooting table on 2-11.
I keyed in on this note;
The motor control monitors the signals and communicates this information to the machine control (control board). The purpose of this signal is to tell the motor when to energize each winding in the motor and to tell the machine control the actual motor speed.
Then this note;
Note: If the machine control board does not receive an input signal from the motor control/tachometer circuit (JP4 connector), the motor speed will rapidly accelerate for 5 seconds then shut down. The machine control will sense a "locked rotor" condition and the motor will stop. If the motor control does not receive an input signal from the motor, the motor will "****" for 5 seconds then shut down.
I don’t believe you have that condition. I have worked with a forum member who had an issue with the motor controller related to an Lr error, locked rotor error and replacing the Motor Controller fixed the issue. Form here I vote for an issue with the Motor Controller. Not having known good parts makes this a difficult job.
The control board is under warranty for 5 yrs from DOP, the Control Board is 2 yrs. Ebay is a good source 25001079
I would push Maytag CSV for both. I got them to send me a Control Board after discussing my troubleshooting and that I had a neighbor (me) that was a repair tech who would install. I also had to send them copy of my warranty not sure why they beeded that my machine was on file with them.
In your console you will find a Troubleshooting guide if you haven’t pulled it out already. It has the schematic for the machine which I find handy. If you want a soft PDF copy of the schematic I can e-mail you. Just ping me at [email protected]. I use that for one-way contact, just respond back on this post if you ping me, I don’t check the account for month’s at a time.
With my limited knowledge I will try to help you. Good luck. Rich
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SOURCE: Maytag Bravos washer rattles when it hits rinse cycle and will no
Mine is doing it. What was your final result?
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