A spring has come out of the bar oil reservoir

good chance that the needle bar bearing has siezed up or that the spring which pulls the needle bar back to centre has broken. If you are mechanically minded you should be able to remove the top cover and take a look down onto the bearing. Two screws hold the top cover down and you need to wiggle it around a bit to the left to get it off past the bobbin winder, then tip it backwards around the carry handle. Some of the later Air electronics have a circlip on the left handle side which just slides off easily so you can remove the carry handle and then get the top cover off fully. To check the spring first, set the machine stitch width to 4 and select the zig zag stitch on the stitch selector. Make sure the needle bar is in its highest position, now push it to the right and release, it should move smoothly back to the left if the spring is working.
If the spring is there and the bearing is just gunked up, then you can work it free with some TriFlow oil, a long q tip or eyedropper to apply and lots of patience and careful working of the needle bar back and forward to free up its movement. Sometimes a bit of heat from a hairdryer will help this too, just be careful not to apply it to any plastic components, shield them.

Sounds like what you are describing is "continuous cycle". If it is, then this can usually be fixed with a fairly quick adjustment. Once the bottom is off the projector, locate the clutch spring / clutch contact. The tip of the clutch spring (spring sticking straight out of the camstack hub) should be just visable over the clutch spring (the "L"-shaped spring contact). If bending is necessary to achieve a normal cycle, BEND CAREFULLY!! The springs are old and brittle!!.

Follow these steps and it will help u resize your watch.
1-Take a good look at the watch bracelet. Seiko watch bands are equipped with one of two different types of pins holding the links in place. One type is a simple, nail-shaped pushpin that's inserted into the joint between two links. The second is a flat, L-shaped piece of metal that slides into the center of a link and locks it into place. Both pins are removed using the same process. If the nail-shaped pushpin is present, you'll see the tiny screw heads in the joints. If the L-shaped pin is present, the links will be open-sided and you'll be able to see a strip of metal inserted in each links.
2-
Look for the arrows on the inside of the watch bracelet links. The arrows indicate the direction the pins and links need to be slid off of the band. Any attempt to go against the arrows could break or warp the links.
3-Remove the spring bar from the clasp with the small pin-removal tool. Set the watch up on it's side so that the top of the spring bar is facing up and the bottom is flush against the table. Put moderate pressure on the top of the spring bar and tilt the watch just a bit sideways so that the spring bar can slide out. Ease out the bar slowly and carefully; the spring bar is spring-loaded and will shoot away from the watch if you're not careful (make sure that the bottom of the watch is pointed away from you at all times). Put the spring bar in a small dish so it doesn't get lost.
4-Line up a small pin-removal tool with the top of the pin and push in the direction of the arrow until it slides out completely. Slide off the link. Place the pin and the link in the small dish. You'll want to save them in case the watch needs to be re-sized again at a later date. Continue removing links, alternating sides of the band to keep it even, until the watch reaches the desired size.
5-Reconnect the watch. On the side opposite where the spring bar was removed, line up the link connected to the clasp and the second link on the band. Slide the pin in the opposite direction of the arrow, using a flat-headed pin inserter to push it into the joint. Use the pin-removal tool to give it a final push, listening for the click.
6-
Reinsert the spring bar slowly, using the pin inserter. Make sure the spring bar is lined up and tightly in place to avoid injury.
Try this and it you cant manage it then you need to get it to a watch repair shop specializing in that brand.

You probably have a warped bar. Remove side cover and chain, then remove and reverse bar ( move the top to the bottom ) . Pour bar and chain oil on the tip of your bar and spin gear inside with a flat screwdriver to allow oil total penetration. re - install chain and side cover, adjust chain and tighten cover.Make sure you keep the oil reservoir full - refill everytime you add fuel. When it starts cutting crooked just reverse the bar again.

The item on the end of the crankshaft is the clutch (inner part) and also part of the chain brake (the outer part of the clutch drum). There should be an oil-volume adjustment screw located under the case near where the chain returns to the engine. Turn it CCW somewhat to increase oil volume. Be sure to clean the small oil passages that run from the large holes in the drive end of the bar out to the chain groove on each bar edge. The correct way to set it is have everything assembled, start the engine and run at speed for a few moments with the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Hope this helps!

The filter can usually be caught with a hooked wire and drawn up far enough to deal with the filter. Oil filters are not prone to plugging unless the oil used is contaminated. If you run the engine without the bar and chain attached, oil should ooze out of the engine side port. If nothing, suspect problems with the oil pump. Some saws use a plastic gear in the pump and can strip the teeth of the gear. You should find it located behind the clutch assembly. Once you have oil flowing from the engine, clean the bar drive-end oil ports that go from the large holes out to the chain groove on each side. Finally, run the bar tip near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. I have no idea what the plastic tube might be (a manual pumper perhaps?). Hope this helps!

Make sure the faceplate is open and thge takup lever down, hook the hook shape spring over the spindle at a bit of an angle, lower the top and push it to the right.

the weak spring is making it tip. also you say the other shock is leaking fluid. you need to replace both shocks and springs, the seem to have been worn down, there is no fix other than using spring blocks to boost up the saging side, but i would recommend replacing it all.

It is on the drivers side very rear of the oil pain close to where the transmission is. It takes a 30 mm socket and a breaker bar.

I believe the reservoir you are talking about is for the bar chain oil. You can get it most anywhere. As for mixing the gas and oil mixture, you will need 2 cycle oil. It is available most everywhere also. Most modern chain saws use a 50:1 mixing ratio which means 2 1/2 ounces of oil to 1 gallon of gas. Hope this helps.