Vegetable and meat draws freezing everything temp@16 deg. f.

There is a balance between the freezer and fridge. Reduce the freezer temp and see what the fridge temp does. By reduce I
mean make the freezer warmer. If it is set too cold the fridge gets colder.

Remove the vegetable/ produce/ meat draws and shelving that support them. Look along the rear wall or the left inside wall for vents that are feeding or directing cold air to the draws. First try to shut or close these vents down. Or you can tape over them to restrict the flow . The normal refrig temp is between 37 to 40 deg.

have you check the temperature?

The temperature controls are preset in the factory at 37°F for the refrigerator compartment and 0°F for the freezer compartment. Allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize to the preset recommended
settings.

Iced-over evaporator coils, accompanied by a non-chilled fresh food compartment, happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall between compartments which opens when the fresh food side needs cooling. If no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while.

I bough a pair of thermometers at a kitchen store and put one in the freezer compartment and one in the fresh food compartment so that I could occasionally check to see if it made sense for the compressor to be running (ie, was it really necessary to be trying to cool either compartment, or were they already cold enough).

About six months later I had the coil icing problem again. This time the fresh food side seemed cool enough (according to the thermometer as well as the fact that the flapper door would close, indicating that the computer knew to not try to additionally cool the fresh food side).

The thermometer indicated that the temp in the freezer compartment was cold enough, but the system computer continued to run the compressor. So I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

Is it all areas of the fresh food side that are freezing your items, or is it the drawer area?

There is a direct connection (on my GE side-by-side, at least) between the freezer compartment and the drawers in the fresh food compartment. The size of the connection is controlled with a wheel or a slider. This could contribute to freezing in that area of the fresh food compartment.

Otherwise, it could be the temp sensor(s) in the fresh food compartment. If the computer thinks the temp is too high in the fresh food compartment, it will continue to cool.

It could be a problem with the motorized door that connects the freezer compartment to the fresh food compartment, located at the top of the dividing wall between the compartment. That door should close when the temp in the fresh food compartment is cold enough. If that door mechanism has failed, is disconnected, or otherwise blocked in the open position, cold air from the freezer compartment will continue to circulate into the fresh food compartment.

This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

This site has schematics of various appliances, including the model number you provided...
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=GSS22WGPDBB&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

Your model appears very similar to mine - in the "Fresh Food Shelves" section of the above site, the sensor is diagram number 242. In the "Freezer Section", the sensors are diagram number 241 and 243.

This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me,the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side.That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Sincethe compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wallof the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week).Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longermove any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food sidecontinued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole witha motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air ismoving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartmentclimb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side andsolved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the sameproblem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezercompartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

Ifyou are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them allunder the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

Use a website like www.partselect.com to look up a parts diagram for your fridge and see if you can order just the temp sensors. Other websites (www.repairclinic.com and www.appliancepartsworldwide.com) may also be helpful. I have no affiliation with any of the sites I just mentioned - I'm just posting them as resources.

This refrigerator only has one thermostat located in the fresh food compartment it is designed to activate the sealed system (cooling) until it reaches approximately 37 deg f in the fresh food compartment. The damper controls how fast the cold air can move from the freezer compartment to the fresh food compartment. Allowing you to control the temp in the freezer by controlling the flow of cold air to the thermostat.

You have one of two problems.
#1 your thermostat is no longer opening when it achieves set temp. fix = replace thermostat pn 61005798 $35
#2 your damper arm or assemblie has broken. Fix = Replace damper or broken arm and actuator.
damper assembly pn12001377 $44
damper actuator pn 61002000 $2
damper arm pn 61001999 $2

thermostat actuator arm damper arm

damper assembly both pics

You have a defective thermistor and damper control in the fresh food or a bad control board.
Check the thermistor first.
Also, adjust the return air damper at the bottom left side of the fresh food sction to warmer.