I have open the case to connect it directly via a universal adapter but there is still no power. I am thinking about changing the circuit board but I don't know where to get one. Is there an other solution?
Check the polarity on the adapter , maybe its reversed.
SOURCE: Hard drive failure
If the board is the problem, perhaps. But often a drive failure is a head crash, in which case only data recovery services can help. Before you take apart the drive itself, make sure it is not a simpler problem-- one inside the enclosure.
There are a couple different possibilities here. 1) The hard drive has died. 2) The power supply for the external enclosure has died. 3) The controller circuitry for the enclosure has died. To determine what is the problem, you'll probably need to open the enclosure. Chances are, if the power light comes on, the power supply is working in some capacity.
Disconnect the drive's USB cable from the computer, and turn off the drive, usually with a small switch on the rear.
Now, place the drive flat against your head so that you can listen to the inside. Do not make any sudden moves at this point, shake the drive, drop it, etc. As the drive turns on, it is susceptible to damage.
Turn on the drive and listen for a "whirring" sound that indicates the drive is spinning up. After the initial spin up, it will become quieter. Make note of what you hear, and turn the drive off-- put it down after a few moments, giving the drive time to spin down again. A drive that is powered up can be damaged by handling it roughly.
If you did not hear the drive spin up, proceed with opening the enclosure.
If you heard it whine as it spun up, the problem is more likely with the cable you use to connect it, or the drivers/hardware in the system. Replace the USB cable. Uninstall your USB interface/hub inside the Devices control panel and Scan for Hardware Changes-- this may reload corrupted USB drivers.
Opening the Enclosure - First unplug the drive.
Open the case. Generally this is by removing two or more small phillips head screws on the back or bottom, sometimes they are covered by rubber feet
The outer shell will often pull off of or slide away from an inside chassis.
Carefully open the enclosure, taking care not to disturb cables. You should immediately see a fuse on the power supply you can check for replacement.
At this point you should also check to make sure the ribbon cable and power leads are firmly in place.
On the PCB (printed circuit board) look for burned or scorched areas, bulging or split capacitors (small, colored "can" looking components soldered on)-- also, is there a burnt smell?
If the fuse was blown, see if replacing it solves the problem. If the power connector and/or ribbon cable were not inserted fully, or were loose, unplugging them and then re-inserting them firmly may solve the problem.
If there are bulging capacitors, a smell, or discoloration, the power supply may be bad. Replacement enclosures can be purchased online for under $30. Be sure to get the right size (5.25" or 2.5" drive?) and interface (IDE or SATA).
If none have these have helped, the drive indeed may be bad. Many drives like these are under warranty. Look for the manufacturer's name and website on the drive. Most makers will have warranty information displayed prominently on their support page. They will often allow you to enter the drives' serial number to determine if it is under warranty, in which case they will issue an RMA (Return Merchandise Authorization) for repair or replacement.
If the drive is not under warranty, you can still purchase a "bare" OEM drive of similar capacity for around $110, and replace it yourself. Take care to purchase the right type of drive -- most are IDE but some are SATA. A wide ribbon cable means IDE. Simply make note of how it is installed in the enclosure (usually a couple screws) and mount the new one the same way. Close up the case and re-connect it to your PC.
SOURCE: How to open case: Seagate ST3160203U2RK External Hard Drive ??
This is one of the mean tricks that the industry uses to discourage people from opening things and then totally ruining them.
What about getting yourself a 5-star-shaped screwdriver? Ask your hardware store guy.
Too expensive? Well - I have a lot of different simple slotted screwdrivers. Normally I find one that fits into 2 corners of these "miracle screws". If you don't have fitting one use a cheap one that is slightly too large to fit and grind it down just to size.
The same trick works with the other kind of "discouragement screws" that have ALMOST a normal slot --- but there's an elevation in the middle of it. A slot screwdriver with a ground-in **** in the middle (Dremel tools work fine) does the trick.
SOURCE: USB connector broke off
Hello,
You can surely do that but since there will be no Operating System to boot from, you will need a bootable third party software that can give you an environment where you can view your hard disk and copy things from it. An example is Hiren Boot CD's mini XP and Winternal's ERD Commander. You then set your PC to boot from CD in the bios setup.
All the best.
SOURCE: I have a SimpleTech 120GB external hard drive.
Simpletechs have a three year warranty so if your drive is newer than that it is covered. You can go to www.simpletech.com (they are really hitachi drives) for details on warranty repair. If you are sure its not covered the case can be opened and inside you will find a SATA drive and you can buy a new SATA external enclosure for 19.99 at Radioshack. This includes the circuit board, cable, and new case.
SOURCE: my power and usb cable connections broke loose
It can be repaired just use a low heat soldering iron, and use heat sink clips, so that the heat will not
transfer and burn other components. make sure all power cords are removed from the board. use a
wrist ground strap to dissipate any static buildup that can damage components on the board. good luck!
VOILA! Both my laptop and my desktop PC recognized the LG BD burner again and assigned it a drive letter (like it used to do).
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