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Our refrigerator/freezer will stop working (not cool or freeze) then days later will begin to work again.
It starts off by making a strange noise. Like a long hum and a click. As if the compressor is attempting to come on but can't. It will do this for a couple of days then it will no longer cool or freeze. The fan is working, but blowing hot air. Then about 3 days after it has stopped it magically starts working again..and will for about 2 weeks. We have cleaned the coils as suggested in the manual, but it did not do anything to help it. Is it possible that the thermostat is going out? Our refrig is only 2 years old. We bought it brand new when we bought our house. What can we do to fix this problem?
Jenn-Air JBL2086HES purchased August '04. June '08, freezer thaws and frig items become warm. I did hear a humming sound followed by a click averaging every two mintes. Authorized service deems it to be the relay switch and replaces for $24.00 + svc call. Two weeks later, a repeat of the situation, but I had a different authorized service and since I unplugged the refrigerator, they were not able to assess the situation once plugged in. They did suspect the compressor and in addition to saying we had one year left on the warranty for compressor, do not unplug refrigerator. Yesterday, a repeat performance and the second Authorized Dealer was out and said the Blue Indian Compressor was not dependable and they were having many complaints. Hoping to have a new once shipped and installed tomorrow. Once I know the compressor replacement, will post. Unfortunately, these Corporations are not interested standing behind the product name, but instead are looking at the bottom line and therefore look to buy their integrated components overseas cheaper, yet still charge the American Public prices as if they are paying wages here in America.
roper fridge making "clicking" noise - compressor warm fridge staying pretty cold,freezer warming up,thawing out
The buzzing sound comes from the compressor when it is trying to start. Something is preventing this. The click is the thermal breaker which protects the compressor from burning up. When it tries to start it draws a lot more current than when it's running, so if it doesn't start after 10-20 seconds, the breaker trips and shuts it off for a while and then resets.
It is NOT the thermostat.
Either the compressor is bad, there's not the right amount of refrigerant/lubricant in the system, or you have a low voltage problem. If the refrigerator is plugged into an extension cord, resistance in the cord could cause a voltage drop during startup causing the compressor to fail to start. Make sure it's plugged directly into a good quality outlet with proper voltage available.
The buzzing sound comes from the compressor when it is trying to start. Something is preventing this. The click is the thermal breaker which protects the compressor from burning up. When it tries to start it draws a lot more current than when it's running, so if it doesn't start after 10-20 seconds, the breaker trips and shuts it off for a while and then resets.
It is NOT the thermostat.
Either the compressor is bad, there's not the right amount of refrigerant/lubricant in the system, or you have a low voltage problem. If the refrigerator is plugged into an extension cord, resistance in the cord could cause a voltage drop during startup causing the compressor to fail to start. Make sure it's plugged directly into a good quality outlet with proper voltage available.
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Re: Our refrigerator/freezer will stop working (not cool...
I find it hard to believe the compressor is going out,if the fridge is staying cold,put a thermometor in the fridge and it should stay about 32 degrees,ideally around 40 is a good temp.if the freezer isnt staying below 32 degrees then it sure sounds like a thermostat problem.But i have heard of computers in these newer refridgerators but havent worked on any just yet.
it sounds like a bad: start
switch (on the side of the compressor) or compressor itself the start switch
clicksoff usually when the compressor
is pulling too many amps or the compressor is overheating. if the compressor is
not even running then its probably not overheating. so either the compressor is
pulling too many amps (bad compressor) or the start switch is bad and cannot
handle the amps required to start the compressor.
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Laurie a lot of people forget to leave the fridge and freezer door open slightly and the water from defrost hiding behind the rear wall of the freezer will keep the inside of freezer and fridge damp this will cause the freezer fan motor to rust and stop air circulation. Can you provide a model number? Thanks John Tripp Appliance 911 Contact me Here
sounds like its freezing up on you. check the drain outlet and make sure that its clear. also i would replace the defrost timer on this unit because its suppose to bring on the heaterfs to melyt the ice so thaat yoiu don't have to. they are around 30 mdollars at the appliancew repair store and all you need is the model number and serial number for the uit. after you get it it's either on the very top of the refrigerator section or in the very back. It has 4 wires going to it. good luck.
If you have already tried shutting off for 24 hrs. (reset), cleaning the under-bed condenser fins (vacuum and/or compressed air) and the issue still continues, you may be lucky enough to just need a relay/overload switch; the thingy connected to the compressor, which by the way takes patience and ease in removing. However, once the plastic cover is off, simply unplug the relay switch(s) and shake it, if you hear rattling (or) smell burn, the relay is toast and thus needs replacement. Simple enough, for replacement type in the model # of the compressor: (i.e.) [[ Embraco FGS 80 with relay/overload switch ]] cost around ($30-$50)... order, replace, re-plug, and if on target, the compressor will kick in. let run for 24 hours before adding foods, and all is good. Have a nice day. ee
I had the same issue. It was the relay overload which essentially provides the extra boost to get the compressor going. The switch tries for about 10 seconds before giving up and then retries 3 - 4 minutes later. In the early stages of failure, eventually it will work and the compressor will kick on. But eventually the switch will fail and will just cycle through the 10 second attempt every 3 to 4 minutes. The part is about $35 - part number 67005560.
The compressor is overheating and not starting. Could be just the start relay. If this happens again try unplugging it for about an hour then it should work for a while. Heat between doors is normal this is an electric heater designed to keep the doors from sweating. You just noticed it because the refrigerator wasn't cold.
Have you noticed more frost in the freezer than usual? It sounds like you may have moisture building up and freezing around evaporator fan. The fan blade hitting ice will cause the buzzing until it stops it completely or the evaporator clogs with frost and blocks airflow. If you have frost on food in freezer, check the door seals and make sure nothing is keeping doors from closing completely if you release them about 6" from cabinet.
It's either the start device on the compressor or you have a bad compressor. You'll have to pull it away from the wall and take the bottom back panel off to check the compressor. It will likely be real hot to the touch from what you described happening. If there is a little white colored box on the left side take that off and remove the wires, etc. and shake it... if it rattles and debris falls out then that's the problem. It's fairly common and they make a kit to replace it with a better designed part that's real easy to install yourself. If your compressor has a label on it with a blue indian head symbol, then you're out of luck as that brand pretty much sucks and is destroyed by heat. It would mean a new compressor and then you'd be lucky if the new one even worked from the factory. Avoid those Tecumseh compressors at all cost.
The buzzing sound comes from the compressor when it is trying to start. Something is preventing this. The click is the thermal breaker which protects the compressor from burning up. When it tries to start it draws a lot more current than when it's running, so if it doesn't start after 10-20 seconds, the breaker trips and shuts it off for a while and then resets.
It is NOT the thermostat.
Either the compressor is bad, there's not the right amount of refrigerant/lubricant in the system, or you have a low voltage problem. If the refrigerator is plugged into an extension cord, resistance in the cord could cause a voltage drop during startup causing the compressor to fail to start. Make sure it's plugged directly into a good quality outlet with proper voltage available.
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