Just hooked up fosgate bd1500.1 to 2 JBL gto series 15" subwoofer

You need to calculate the amount of amps being driven through that fuse + the amount you need to feed the amplifier.
In my Volvo S40 and V70 I had no problems driving an amplifier of the rear power connector, but on my Honda S2000 however I had to create a different connection all the way to the battery line for a smaller amp (connection as in cables, condensers/filters and fuses).

These are "powered" speakers and any little bit
of distortion can be amplified enough to "blow" it!
Also the amp could be "shorted"! Have your JBL
dealer test it!!!

If the amp is 1200 watts at 2 ohm stable you will want to set up the speakers as parrallel and bridge the amp. That means conncect the speakers with + to + and - to -. Look at the amp connections. Usually thereare connects that look like this:
+ -
+ - + -

If yours look like this use the diagram on top. You will use the + for the left ouput on the amp to the right - on the amp. This will allow you to use all the power from the amp. Be sure to lower the gain as to not pop the speakers or amp.

Hello sharky75,

That 1600 watt peak power figure for your subwoofer can't tell you what amp you need. You need to know the maximum RMS power the sub can handle. And you need to know the impedance (ohms) of the voice coil(s). JBL GT5 series subs have an RMS rating of 275 watts. The GTO series handles 300 watts. The Power series handles 400 watts. The GTi series handles 700 watts. Some are single voice coil, so the impedance is fixed. Others are dual voice coil allowing you to wire them for different impedance loads.

For maximum performance your amp should be able to provide at or near the same number of watts RMS into the lowest impedance at which the sub can be configured. For example, if your sub is the Power Series Model number P1224, it has dual 4ohm voice coils and can be wired to present either a 2ohm load (parallel) or an 8ohm load (series). You want to wire the voice coils in parallel for the 2ohm load and select an amp that outputs up to 400 watts RMS into 2ohms. The Orion Cobalt CO8001 is just such an amp. If you have one of the GTi Series subs, a better amp would be the JVC Arsenal KS-AR75 which outputs 700 watts into 2ohms.

Hope this helps.

I would check to see if you have a secure ground and check all of your connections for shorts.

check the wire terminals under the cone by the spider and make sure that they are both still connected

The 2 leads that come off the HF driver are different sizes...you should only be able to hook them up one way. Takes the guess work out of it for ya.

Assuming there is nothing wrong with the speaker, hooking up the 2418H HF driver to it should do the trick. However, I blew my HF driver a few months ago and bought a new one, only to blow it immediately. This was because the motherboard of the JBL EON G2 had actually failed and caused the HF driver to fail. Once I replaced the motherboard and the HF driver (again) everything was back to sounding great. Hope that helps.

These fuses are most likely 3 Amp fuses. Please note that if the replacements blow as well, that there is a problem within the amp section that will require repair.

Dan

If no warranty - remove amp and check sub to another amp to isolate speaker from internal amp. Either the amp blew a channel or subwoofer blew. JBL's are typically well built. Has this speaker often been pushed loud often?

it will over heat the amp posibly blow it.....becareful